Best way to chrome plate resin wheels?

[mikemodeler]

I have some resin wheels that I want to chrome, some just the rim and others the whole wheel. My question is what is the best way to do this? Should I ..

A. Send them out for plating?

B. Spray chrome paint from a rattle can?

C. Airbrush Molotow or Alcad?

D. Chrome BMF?

E. Brush paint them with Testors Gloss Chrome enamel?

 

Really want to do a good job so all comments are welcome, if you have a video or pix to share, even better!

[StevenGuthmiller]

Well there's absolutely no question that sending them out for chroming is going to give you the best result.

It's pretty tough to beat real chrome with spray on chrome.

 

The others will give you some resemblance to chrome, but they are not going to give you the same reflectivity, and they will definitely fall far short in the durability department.

BMF would probably give you the closest thing to chrome, but good luck covering a wheel with foil.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[Plowboy]

I had some resin wheels chrome plated once. They looked like garbage before I could use them. So, I wouldn't go that route. It wasn't the chrome as I also had styrene wheels plated and they're still in perfect shape. I'd use a Molotow pen on them.

Edited March 9, 2021 by Plowboy

[peteski]

Makers of resin kits (Like Modelhaus) have their resin wheels/hubcaps "plated" using the vacuum-metalizing process. Basically the same process that is used by model kit manufacturers to "chrome" plate their parts.

Roger doesn't say if that is the process he used on his resin wheels, or did he have them actually electroplated with chrome (same process that is used for 1:1 car parts), but if the bare parts have flawless finish,, then the vacuum-metalizing works really well.

In the past we had few after market "platers" for plastic parts (vacuum-metalizing). ChromeTech USA was one of the more popular, but they shut down a while ago.  Nowadays it appears that Dale Horner (Little Motor Kar Company) is the only one left for vacuum-metalizing plastic parts.  He used to do all the Modelhaus "plating".  I would recommend him do "chrome" your wheels.  Like you mentioned, there are other alternatives like Molotow, Spaz Stick, Alsa chrome, Alclad II, and others, but none result in the chrome-like finish of vacuum-metalizing.

Edited March 9, 2021 by peteski

[Ace-Garageguy]

7 minutes ago, peteski said:

...Like you mentioned, there are other alternatives like Molotow, Spaz Stick, Alsa chrome, Alclad II, and others, but none result in the chrome-like finish of vacuum-metalizing.

Alsa Chrome will get you the closest. It's durable and can be clearcoated without turning to silver paint.

It's also not cheap.

https://alsacorp.com/product/easy-chrome

[StevenGuthmiller]

24 minutes ago, peteski said:

Makers of resin kits (Like Modelhaus) have their resin wheels/hubcaps "plated" using the vacuum-metalizing process. Basically the same process that is used by model kit manufacturers to "chrome" plate their parts.

Roger doesn't say if that is the process he used on his resin wheels, or did he have them actually electroplated with chrome (same process that is used for 1:1 car parts), but if the bare parts have flawless finish,, then the vacuum-metalizing works really well.

In the past we had few after market "platers" for plastic parts (vacuum-metalizing). ChromeTech USA was one of the more popular, but they shut down a while ago.  Nowadays it appears that Dale Horner (Little Motor Kar Company) is the only one left for vacuum-metalizing plastic parts.  He used to do all the Modelhaus "plating".  I would recommend him do "chrome" your wheels.  Like you mentioned, there are other alternatives like Molotow, Spaz Stick, Alsa chrome, Alclad II, and others, but none result in the chrome-like finish of vacuum-metalizing.

Agreed.

There's no problem with chroming resin as long as the casting is acceptable to chrome.

There's nothing wrong with the plating process, only the quality of the resin parts.

I have tons of plated resin parts that are every bit as good as a plated styrene part.

Case in point is this Modelhaus 1958 Ford rear bumper.

There's no possible way to tell that it's a resin part.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[89AKurt]

2 hours ago, peteski said:

Makers of resin kits (Like Modelhaus) have their resin wheels/hubcaps "plated" using the vacuum-metalizing process. Basically the same process that is used by model kit manufacturers to "chrome" plate their parts.

Roger doesn't say if that is the process he used on his resin wheels, or did he have them actually electroplated with chrome (same process that is used for 1:1 car parts), but if the bare parts have flawless finish,, then the vacuum-metalizing works really well.

In the past we had few after market "platers" for plastic parts (vacuum-metalizing). ChromeTech USA was one of the more popular, but they shut down a while ago.  Nowadays it appears that Dale Horner (Little Motor Kar Company) is the only one left for vacuum-metalizing plastic parts.  He used to do all the Modelhaus "plating".  I would recommend him do "chrome" your wheels.  Like you mentioned, there are other alternatives like Molotow, Spaz Stick, Alsa chrome, Alclad II, and others, but none result in the chrome-like finish of vacuum-metalizing.

Last time I used Dale, needed to keep resin separate from styrene.

[Snake45]

Two things have worked pretty well for me at reasonable cost. 

1. Krylon "Foil" spray paint--the best I've found and the big can will do a lot of stuff. Not perfect but pretty darn impressive results.

2. Deco Color Premium Silver Leaf marker, available at Walmart. It's about 95% as "chromy" as Molotow, but dries faster, dries harder (more durable), and costs much less. I've touched up quite a few wheels and bumpers with this stuff and been VERY pleased with the effect. 

[stitchdup]

If you go the molotowe route the only clear I've found that doesn't marr the shine is gauzy shine enhancer from ak, and it means you can still handle the parts

Edited March 9, 2021 by stitchdup

[TransAmMike]

4 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Two things have worked pretty well for me at reasonable cost. 

1. Krylon "Foil" spray paint--the best I've found and the big can will do a lot of stuff. Not perfect but pretty darn impressive results.

2. Deco Color Premium Silver Leaf marker, available at Walmart. It's about 95% as "chromy" as Molotow, but dries faster, dries harder (more durable), and costs much less. I've touched up quite a few wheels and bumpers with this stuff and been VERY pleased with the effect. 

Hey "Mr Snake", can you possibly post a picture of those two products??  Definately sounds interesting.

[Snake45]

55 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Hey "Mr Snake", can you possibly post a picture of those two products??  Definately sounds interesting.

Here's the Deco Color marker: 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Marvy-Uchida-DecoColor-Premium-Metallic-Paint-Marker-Chisel-Tip-Silver-028617350691/43472202

Here's the Krylon Foil Silver: 

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Silver-Krylon-Foil-Metallic-Spray-Paint/p/1397

 

[TransAmMike]

16 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

Here's the Deco Color marker: 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Marvy-Uchida-DecoColor-Premium-Metallic-Paint-Marker-Chisel-Tip-Silver-028617350691/43472202

Here's the Krylon Foil Silver: 

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Silver-Krylon-Foil-Metallic-Spray-Paint/p/1397

 

Thanks Snake, gonna try them out, that Deco pen sure a lot cheaper than the Molotow which I find dulls with age before using it. 

[CapSat 6]

15 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Last time I used Dale, needed to keep resin separate from styrene.

I sent some resin bumpers out to Dale @ LMKC. Like Kurt said, he had me put resin parts on a separate tree than plastic parts. His literature said that he uses a different process for resin parts. The bumpers I sent to him turned out pretty nice.

One thing I would recommend would be to clean the resin wheels very well with Westley's Bleach White whitewall tire cleaner first, to remove any mold release.   

 

[misterNNL]

I would imagine the same rules of surface preparation prior to painting would apply here. That being that a imperfect surface will result in a poor looking finished plated part. Of course Modelhaus parts were perfect when they arrived at the player's thus perfect end result. No substitute for great prep work I guess.

[Plowboy]

18 hours ago, peteski said:

Roger doesn't say if that is the process he used on his resin wheels, or did he have them actually electroplated with chrome (same process that is used for 1:1 car parts), but if the bare parts have flawless finish,, then the vacuum-metalizing works really well.

 

LittleMotorKarCo was the plater. Dale's one of the best there is if not the best. The wheels were flawless for the first few months. Then the plating wrinkled until hell wouldn't wouldn't have them. I'm pretty sure it was to do with the resin itself. Not the plating.

[Mark]

21 hours ago, peteski said:

Nowadays it appears that Dale Horner (Little Motor Kar Company) is the only one left for vacuum-metalizing plastic parts.  He used to do all the Modelhaus "plating".  

I might be wrong, but I'm under the impression that Chrome-Tech did the plating for Modelhaus, and Bob decided to quit the business after losing them, by far his biggest customer.

[peteski]

3 hours ago, Plowboy said:

LittleMotorKarCo was the plater. Dale's one of the best there is if not the best. The wheels were flawless for the first few months. Then the plating wrinkled until hell wouldn't wouldn't have them. I'm pretty sure it was to do with the resin itself. Not the plating.

That is really strange. First time I have heard of this type of a problem.  Have you contated Dale for his opinion?  If anybody would know, it would be him.

13 minutes ago, Mark said:

I might be wrong, but I'm under the impression that Chrome-Tech did the plating for Modelhaus, and Bob decided to quit the business after losing them, by far his biggest customer.

While I can't say I'm 100% certain, I'm pretty sure that I heard it from a reliable source. It was few years ago at the NNL East.  Either Bob Shelton (one of the guys who wrote the model kit price guide), or Dale Horner himself mentioned that he did all the Modelhaus plating.

[Plowboy]

37 minutes ago, peteski said:

That is really strange. First time I have heard of this type of a problem.  Have you contated Dale for his opinion?  If anybody would know, it would be him.

 

No. It happened months afterward. No fault of his. I chalked it up to bad resin.

[crssfr]

I have "chrome plated" bumpers and other model items with BMF if I either didn't want to spend the money or wait for chroming. Regards to wheels....If mine are too intricate or deep I spray with silver and clearcoat. Be careful with aerosol clearcoat because if you spray too much the wheels will be hazy and /or yellowish. I use a spray gun with automotive clear. If you use BMF on bumpers you have to do it in pieces. My overlap seams never show that much.

[CaddyDaddy]

I too would like to get some parts "vacuum-metalized". It appears from this old thread that Mr. Dale Horner is the gentleman to speak with. However, from a 2019 posting, I note that he was 79 years old back then. Is he still in business? I searched the net for Little Motor Car Co and LMFC for contact information without luck. Can any of you fella's help me out here?

[Can-Con]

4 hours ago, CaddyDaddy said:

I too would like to get some parts "vacuum-metalized". It appears from this old thread that Mr. Dale Horner is the gentleman to speak with. However, from a 2019 posting, I note that he was 79 years old back then. Is he still in business? I searched the net for Little Motor Car Co and LMFC for contact information without luck. Can any of you fella's help me out here?

It's "Little Motor Kar Company" and here's the e-mail addy 

lmkco@outlook.com

[peteski]

I emailed Dale in the past but after waiting for a long time with no reply I called him.  He told me that he doesn't check emails very often.  Better try calling.  Here is the info (sorry I only have this single page with contact info).

Edited February 1 by peteski

[Can-Con]

Here's the second page,,

The quality of resin varies a great deal from caster to caster.  Because of this, we cannot guarantee the results of the finish on resin parts. 

 

CONTINUED ON OTHER SIDE                         

MOUNTING PARTS 

Parts can be mounted on 6” X 8” (outside dimensions) wire frame. Heavy- duty wire coat hangers are an excellent source of material. The over lapping ends should be on an 8”side for maximum strength and stability.  Overlapped area can be secured with electrical ties, wire, welded or soldered. 

 

Cross- pieces can be either more coat hanger type material or a plastic structural shape such as Plastruct. Round pieces are acceptable for “stringing” promo bumpers together, but square,” T” shaped,” I” shaped or flat pieces should be used on other pieces for maximum protection against lost parts. Wood or any other porous substances are not acceptable for mounting material.   

 

 Wheels and hubcaps are best mounted on parallel rails; fastened on either the backside or an edge where the tire will cover the bare spot when remounted. Wheels and hubcaps can be mounted with as little as one eight-inch separation between them without affecting the finished product.   GE Silicone II Household Glue is the recommended material for mounting all parts on your rack.  The “tacky” type craft glues are not recommended as they are a water soluble adhesive.  Our experience has shown that parts become loose and fall off the rack as they are being cleaned prior to coating when this material is used. 

 

Bumpers and larger parts should be separated by about one half inch. An adult size finger makes an excellent and handy spacer. Placing your finger between parts when mounting them will maintain the appropriate spacing required for best results.  The ends of the bumpers should be separated at least three quarters of an inch. 

 

• The finished sides of all parts MUST face the same side of the rack.   

• Leave plenty of space between parts.  The finish will be inconsistent if you try to get too many pieces on a single rack. 

 

RETURN SHIPPING 

Return shipping will be either via United Parcel Service or the U. S. Post Office.  If you have a preference, please state so.  See the Order Form/Price List for normal shipping charges.  Normal shipping charge includes Delivery Confirmation if USPS Priority Mail is used. 

 

INSURANCE 

We can insure your order for any amounts you deem appropriate.  Check with your shipper for the correct amount and enclose the additional funds with your order. 

 

[john sharisky]

I recently had multiple trays of mixed media parts plated by Little Motor Kar Co.. I sent a mixture of styrene, resin and 3D printed items and am pleased with the plating and service. I'll use Dale again. I made mistakes in how I mounted some of these parts. I'll do better next time (I more fully explained this on my Facebook page). As for the results, they look a little better in these photos than they do in real life. Chrome Tech used to advise on their site not to use anything more course than 1500 grit or else the scratches will show through the plating. He's right. 

The Olds and Pontiac wheel covers are "3D printed resin" by Fireball Motorworks. While the results are not mirror-like, the plated results look very 1:1 correct with a slightly stippled finish.

 

 

 

The Air Trax resin Mercury wheels came out not so hot. But that's a result of the poor quality casting. The Corvette alloys and knock-offs are resin but I forget by who. The Parts Box items are for their '58 Chrysler New Yorker trans-kit. The Replica and Miniatures of Maryland caps are from their stock parts kit for the Revell '66 Chevelle wagon kit.

 

 

The Pontiac disc brake wheel covers came from eBay. I forget who did those.

 

 

I hope this helps!

John

 

[Can-Con]

3 minutes ago, john sharisky said:

I recently had multiple trays of mixed media parts plated by Little Motor Kar Co.. I sent a mixture of styrene, resin and 3D printed items and am pleased with the plating and service. I'll use Dale again. I made mistakes in how I mounted some of these parts. I'll do better next time (I more fully explained this on my Facebook page). As for the results, they look a little better in these photos than they do in real life. Chrome Tech used to advise on their site not to use anything more course than 1500 grit or else the scratches will show through the plating. He's right. 

The Olds and Pontiac wheel covers are "3D printed resin" by Fireball Motorworks. While the results are not mirror-like, the plated results look very 1:1 correct with a slightly stippled finish.

 

 

 

The Air Trax resin Mercury wheels came out not so hot. But that's a result of the poor quality casting. The Corvette alloys and knock-offs are resin but I forget by who. The Parts Box items are for their '58 Chrysler New Yorker trans-kit. The Replica and Miniatures of Maryland caps are from their stock parts kit for the Revell '66 Chevelle wagon kit.

 

 

The Pontiac disc brake wheel covers came from eBay. I forget who did those.

 

 

I hope this helps!

John

 

John, there must be something with the 3-D printed parts that make them not take paint that well.

Last summer I had sprayed several sets of wheels, resin and printed, with the Revell chrome spray. This was all on the same afternoon.

6 months later the resin still look good while the printed ones are noticeably duller, now looking like silver paint. Albeit quite shiny silver paint.