‘32 Deuce chop question

[NOBLNG]

When I chopped this ‘32 you can see how I tackled the A pillar. I have seen other chops with a section removed from the mid point as well. The problem I had was the huge mis-alignment that required leaning the top section foward and the lower section back to re-align them….which makes three cuts. I was not about to lengthen the roof! ? I figure on my next one, I will cut out the entire A pillar and then shorten and file the two ends to match the cut angles on the body and roof. Has anyone done it this way, or have a better idea yet?

[Force]

Usually when they chop a 32 5W Coupe the align the center post and massage the front and rear to fit.
A friend of mine did it that way and I saw Gene Winfield do it in a car TV show just the other day.

[mr moto]

The alternate method you're suggesting should work fine. There are as many ways to chop tops as there are model builders. However, it looks to me like you did a great job this time!

[NOBLNG]

  On 6/23/2021 at 4:12 PM, Force said:

Usually when they chop a 32 5W Coupe the align the center post and massage the front and rear to fit.
A friend of mine did it that way and I saw Gene Winfield do it in a car TV show just the other day.

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Thanks. This was my first ever chop and I aligned the rear section because I figured it would take a lot more filler to blend than the center post would. Next time I think I will cut just under the drip rail and move the top half of the B pillar back into alignment.

  On 6/23/2021 at 5:00 PM, mr moto said:

The alternate method you're suggesting should work fine. There are as many ways to chop tops as there are model builders. However, it looks to me like you did a great job this time!

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Thanks, I am happy with the results, but I did slather on a bunch of sprue glue to blend and reshape the A pillar. My next chop will likely be the AMT ‘32 Vicky. I figure with careful cutting and filing the removed piece should fit back in snuggly with very little filler required.

Edited June 23, 2021 by NOBLNG

[Dave G.]

Came out great !

[Plowboy]

You did a great job on the chop Greg! I think your alternative method would work better. Still, you got a nice result with the method you used. If I ever do a five window chop, I think I'll cut the insert free, lengthen the roof, fill the opening and reinstall the insert.

One suggestion I'll make concerning the windshield frame. It was easier for me to fill the opening solid with .040 and cut the center out for the opening. I chopped the kit frame first. But, I couldn't get it to fit right. It could have been due to the body being a resin piece too.

[Jon Haigwood]

Just finished my first chop. This is a 3 window but I made a cut across the center of the roof and added some styrene to lengthen the roof so the front pillars would line up. It did start out as a 3" chop and ended up being a 4 1/2" chop.  I know some people like to slant the front back but I prefer this look.

[bill-e-boy]

I think it depends on the amount of chop

My thoughts are:

2" and you can slant the A pillars back

3" either will work but slanting the pillars may end up being too much

4" you will need to stretch the roof between to A and B pillars

 

[NOBLNG]

  On 6/24/2021 at 6:47 PM, bill-e-boy said:

I think it depends on the amount of chop

My thoughts are:

2" and you can slant the A pillars back

3" either will work but slanting the pillars may end up being too much

4" you will need to stretch the roof between to A and B pillars

 

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This sounds like a good rule of thumb. I think my chop was 3” or 3-1/2”.  I’m not a big fan of the “hammered” look…I mostly want to get rid of the greenhouse look. Thx.

[Lunajammer]

I guess any way that looks good when you're done is the right way. I sure like your crisp door lines.

On this one, I removed my cut section and bent the lower stem back and the upper stem forward. I don't recall if I added a couple half cuts to offer relief to the bends. The pic doesn't really show any.

Edited June 25, 2021 by Lunajammer

[Dave G.]

  On 6/25/2021 at 2:12 AM, Lunajammer said:

I guess any way that looks good when you're done is the right way. I sure like your crisp door lines.

On this one, I removed my cut section and bent the lower stem back and the upper stem forward. I don't recall if I added a couple half cuts to offer relief to the bends. The pic doesn't really show any.

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Your approach would be my choice and do the slices. A simple slice top and bottom takes very little filler to smooth it all out.

[NOBLNG]

  On 6/25/2021 at 2:12 AM, Lunajammer said:

I guess any way that looks good when you're done is the right way. I sure like your crisp door lines.

On this one, I removed my cut section and bent the lower stem back and the upper stem forward. I don't recall if I added a couple half cuts to offer relief to the bends. The pic doesn't really show any.

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It doesn’t look like you did. I think that would have destroyed the upper hinge? All your pillars seem to line up nicely! Nice sectioning job too! Any finished pics of it Mike?

[Lunajammer]

  On 6/25/2021 at 1:55 PM, NOBLNG said:

Any finished pics of it Mike?

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I've got a thread you can pick through here, but unfortunately it ends with a cliffhanger (aka the unfinished pile).

 

Edited July 2, 2021 by Lunajammer

[NOBLNG]

  On 7/2/2021 at 1:05 AM, Lunajammer said:

I've got a thread you can pick through here, but unfortunately it ends with a cliffhanger (aka the unfinished pile).

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Well get back on it Mike!?  I’m sure we would all like to see that one finished! That chop and channel job is beautiful. How many spare castings ya got??

[Lunajammer]

  On 7/2/2021 at 3:11 PM, NOBLNG said:

That chop and channel job is beautiful. How many spare castings ya got??

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Thanks Greg. No spare copies at the moment. My resin looks like sour milk. I'd need to run a test to see if my mold has sagged.

[EngineerBob]

NOBLNG, OMG with your whittling, carving and sanding skills you can chop a top anyway you like. I can't believe how well the shape of the posts look in primer! I'd really like to know how you got such crisp lines in such small spaces?

[NOBLNG]

  On 7/19/2021 at 6:07 PM, EngineerBob said:

NOBLNG, OMG with your whittling, carving and sanding skills you can chop a top anyway you like. I can't believe how well the shape of the posts look in primer! I'd really like to know how you got such crisp lines in such small spaces?

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Sorry for the late response Grant. I chuck a drill bit backwards in the handle and use it as a scriber. They are extremely brittle, so a very light touch is required. I can use from #80 (.0135”) up to #61 (.039”) to match what ever panel line width I happen to need.

Edited December 5, 2021 by NOBLNG

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 7/19/2021 at 6:07 PM, EngineerBob said:

...I'd really like to know how you got such crisp lines in such small spaces?

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Just FYI, my go-to tool for that kind of work has become the Tamiya scriber handle with a selection of tips. Not cheap, but worth every penny:

 

[Skip]

Dental tools!  Its called an Excavator, the one that goosenecks into a thin flat blade on both ends, the blades are around 0.02” Thick X 0.05” Wide X 0.25” Long.  I think they’re for carving fillings or wax carving.  

With a little light file work and a fine hard Arkansas stone you can work the very tip into a sharp hook-like profile. A lot similar to the profile on those Tamiya scribing tools for a lot less cash outlay.  I especially like these because you can modify the tip and continue until the profile consistently works for you to route the grooves in the panel (lines).

You will have to keep tuning up the profile with use as the dental tools are stainless steel versus a carburized steel, but for the cost I’ll keep tuning.

[Zippi]

That chop looks pretty good.  Came out nice.