Rustoleum 2X spray paints

[Mike C.]

If I can remember, one of them that didn't work at all was satin black. One of the others might have been flat black but I'm not 100% sure about that one. some of those chrome look paints seem to work pretty  well but I don't think those are the 2x cans. The clear seems to also work so far. I'd stay away from the black colors for some reason. At this point, I can't say if it's the nozzle or the paint that is the problem. Or maybe a combination of the 2.

[maxwell48098]

I've been building model cars and trucks since 1958, so I've got a little experience under my belt.  He's a few tips I've learned over the decades. 

When it comes to spray paints, I've always stored them upside down, until the last few years when I've been storing most of them on their side.  The reason?  The solids in the paint always settle to the bottom, which is why you have to shake them for at least 5 minutes before using them.  If the solids build up too much on the bottom, and you try to spray them, what will happen is that the will clog the nozzle, or worse the entire pick-up tube.  To get out of trouble when this happens, and still use the paint, I'll take an old nozzle (TIP: always clean and save the old nozzles) that I've removed the pressed in atomizer, that little colored piece that the paint comes out through.  I'll then place the can in a container with warm water (if it doesn't feel almost hot when you dip your finger it is, the water needs to be a little hotter.) until the spray can and contents are about as warm as the water.  I'll then shake the spray can some more before I put the nozzle without the atomizer into the can.  Then hold the can UPSIDE DOWN and press the nozzle down to get the thick paint solids out of the pickup tube.  Heating the spray can did two things; it increased the pressure of the propellant in the can and the warm solid will breakdown and mix with the thinner easier when warm.  This will usually save the spray can and paint.  I used a can of 1:1 spray parts cleaner from Gum Out to clean my nozzles after EVERY USE.  The little tube on the Gum Out spray nozzle fits perfectly inside the tube in the paint nozzle.  If you have a spray paint nozzle that just won't clear, throw it into a sealed jar/container of lacquer thinner, and let it soak.  I try and remove as much of the paint solids plugging the nozzle using a needle before I let them soak.  I've had success probably 95% of the time doing these simple things.  And always take the spray can and turn it upside down and spray the paint in the pickup tube and nozzle to clear them out. (Tip: Different spray can nozzles have different atomizers which will allow thinner layers of paint.  I'll only use the black nozzles with the white atomizer in Testors spray cans. Throw away the white Testor nozzles with black atomizers, and replace them with the black nozzles, and you'll never be sorry.)

I still have some spray cans that I use from time to time from back in the '80's that I had specially mixed.   Amazingly, the propellant in these cans, and the paint, have lasted this long!  As for what spray paints I use, I will usually stick with the Testors, Tamiya, Krylon, Rustoleum, Duplicolor, and have been known to use cheap 1:1 automotive primers under all of my paint jobs.  If you've got an Ollie's in your neck of the woods, stop by regularly and you can pick up cheap cans of spray paint for $1.99 for a large can.  If you don't like using spray cans, this paint can even be decanted for use in an air brush.

Hope some of this helps everyone.

Happy New Year!

 

A.J.

[Dave G.]

This has got to be batch problems or age or something . Rustoleum would be out of business if every can was bad. Makes no sense. When I was still working I bought the stuff by the case for small parts painting and remember the one incident from one case lot of the industrial grade Rustoleum not the 2x. I kept white, red and semi gloss black as I recall. Primer was Krylon, grey and red oxide. All mostly used on interior heater boxes or under hood etc.

Also I always heated the cans under hot water and shook for at least three minutes. Having cases on hand means longer storage with lesser used colors and as mentioned above my post, things settle. That's after the agitator ball frees up if it's stuck which does happen. So heat, get the ball free which can take some time shaking, then the minimum 3 minutes shaking.

Right now I have gloss Apple Red, Ocean Mist, Satin Wild Flower and Aqua which will buff up gloss if you want that. I also have the plaint Painters Touch which was out before 2X, in White. These all spray fine but I prefer to decant and thin further with a little lacquer thinner. The finish comes out as nice as Model Master ever did, shot through the Paasche H medium needle at around 25-30 psi.. 12 oz for $5.99 is a lot better than MCW for $10+ per oz plus shipping.

Edited January 2, 2022 by Dave G.

[bobthehobbyguy]

I came across a video by  Adam Savage of mythbusters. He was talking about a device that is put an electric drill for mixing spray cans. He said he had a stash of plasticote primer that he couldn't use becuase the cans would clog easy. No matter how much shaking b6 hand helped. However with this device he was able to revive the cans.

He showcased the tool. Here is the video.

 

[Zippi]

I've used Rust-Olem paint for years on everything from metal lawn furniture, birdhouses, and models.  Last year I tried the Rust-Oleum flat gray primer on a mode! and it worked out great.  The paint goes on smooth and levels out nicely.  I recently sprayed a model truck with Rusty Oleum flat white primer and cleared it with Tamiya pearl clear. The paint job turned out great.  I'll be trying the flat red primer and clearing it with Rust-Oleum clear lacquer this Spring.  

[customline]

Has anyone tried Ace Hardware Premium? I have had very good results with it and it has a really good nozzle/valve that gives a nice fine mist that's adjustable for a vertical or horizontal spray pattern. Decent variety of colors too. No "spray any way" nonsense so you can clear the  nozzles. Not being able to clear the nozzle kills a lot of spray cans prematurely unless you clean them as stated by others here.  Boosting the pressure with heat always helps as mentioned by others. Sometimes I use a hair dryer .  I try to avoid anything that says "spray any way" on the label. Krylon "Cover Maxx" has the good valves also but check before you buy - not always true ?.  Testors paint is good (the "Extreme Lacquer  especially) but the cans suck. I have trouble pushing the valve down and sometimes they leak out the bottom very slowly ? Anyway, that's my 2 cents.?"

[peteski]

I have never encountered a spray can nozzle which I was not able to clean.  I  don't just spray the can upside down to clear the paint out.  I pull the nozzle off the can and either using a pipette squirt lacquer thinner through it, or sometimes rinse it in an ultrasonic cleaner.  That way the nozzle will be like new next time I spray.  Of course I clean right after spraying (when the paint in the nozzle is still fresh and easily dissolved).

You have to be careful with the nozzles like the ones shown in the above post.  After cleaning make sure that the steel pin inside is pushed up. Otherwise, when the nozzle is reinstalled on the can the pin can press on the valve in the stem of the can and squirt some paint out (ruining the cleaning job).

But all this cleaning might be too much hassle for all the spray can users, since they don't use airbrushes due to too much hassle with cleaning them (Yes, I mostly use an airbrush, but I clean the spray can nozzles even after decanting the paint).  Yes, I'm a bit anal. 

[kymdlr]

I’ve had some great experiences with rust-o & some bad experiences. The clear coats have always been good sprays for me with no problems. Some of the solid gloss color’s have been hit or miss. The flat/satin is usually good. I had a textured black that sprayed fine a couple times but then eventually the entire van got clogged and nothing would unclog it. 

[deuces wild]

15 hours ago, maxwell48098 said:

I've been building model cars and trucks since 1958, so I've got a little experience under my belt.  He's a few tips I've learned over the decades. 

When it comes to spray paints, I've always stored them upside down, until the last few years when I've been storing most of them on their side.  The reason?  The solids in the paint always settle to the bottom, which is why you have to shake them for at least 5 minutes before using them.  If the solids build up too much on the bottom, and you try to spray them, what will happen is that the will clog the nozzle, or worse the entire pick-up tube.  To get out of trouble when this happens, and still use the paint, I'll take an old nozzle (TIP: always clean and save the old nozzles) that I've removed the pressed in atomizer, that little colored piece that the paint comes out through.  I'll then place the can in a container with warm water (if it doesn't feel almost hot when you dip your finger it is, the water needs to be a little hotter.) until the spray can and contents are about as warm as the water.  I'll then shake the spray can some more before I put the nozzle without the atomizer into the can.  Then hold the can UPSIDE DOWN and press the nozzle down to get the thick paint solids out of the pickup tube.  Heating the spray can did two things; it increased the pressure of the propellant in the can and the warm solid will breakdown and mix with the thinner easier when warm.  This will usually save the spray can and paint.  I used a can of 1:1 spray parts cleaner from Gum Out to clean my nozzles after EVERY USE.  The little tube on the Gum Out spray nozzle fits perfectly inside the tube in the paint nozzle.  If you have a spray paint nozzle that just won't clear, throw it into a sealed jar/container of lacquer thinner, and let it soak.  I try and remove as much of the paint solids plugging the nozzle using a needle before I let them soak.  I've had success probably 95% of the time doing these simple things.  And always take the spray can and turn it upside down and spray the paint in the pickup tube and nozzle to clear them out. (Tip: Different spray can nozzles have different atomizers which will allow thinner layers of paint.  I'll only use the black nozzles with the white atomizer in Testors spray cans. Throw away the white Testor nozzles with black atomizers, and replace them with the black nozzles, and you'll never be sorry.)

I still have some spray cans that I use from time to time from back in the '80's that I had specially mixed.   Amazingly, the propellant in these cans, and the paint, have lasted this long!  As for what spray paints I use, I will usually stick with the Testors, Tamiya, Krylon, Rustoleum, Duplicolor, and have been known to use cheap 1:1 automotive primers under all of my paint jobs.  If you've got an Ollie's in your neck of the woods, stop by regularly and you can pick up cheap cans of spray paint for $1.99 for a large can.  If you don't like using spray cans, this paint can even be decanted for use in an air brush.

Hope some of this helps everyone.

Happy New Year!

 

A.J.

You could also use those red straws to decant paint into a jar for air brush use....

[maxwell48098]

 

7 hours ago, deuces wild said:

You could also use those red straws to decant paint into a jar for air brush use....

Those red tubes from the Gum Out and WD-40 make great tubes for decanting.  But what I've done is to take a couple of old spray can nozzles and popped the atomizers out.  The I've inserted a piece of aluminum tubing (I think it was either 1/8 or 5/32") the size of the hole in the nozzle, and then epoxied the tube in place.  It probably allows 3 or 4 time the flow of paint out of the can into my decanting jar that I have a filter on top of to keep and errand paint from escaping..  A quick clean-up, and it's ready to use again later.  My guess is that the three decanting nozzle & tube assemblies that I have are probably 15 years old, or older.

 

Thanks,

 

A.J.

[Mike C.]

I used to have a container with some enamel thinner and a bunch of those nozzles soaking in it. I must have used them all up. I'll have to start a new one. The thing about the 2x nozzles is that they designed them so that you cant do that with them. I like the old nozzles.

[bbowser]

Anyone run into these yet?  Rusto has some nice metallic colors but these nozzles are the pits!  I haven't tried to pry one off yet.

Edited January 3, 2022 by bbowser

[Rodent]

Yes, I wasn't going to mention them because the thread originally was about 2X. I used the Dark Steel on some exhaust pipes and it took 2 days to dry. Not sure why the Universal is so different than the 2X. And the nozzle sucks.

 

[Sledsel]

Having just used several different colors and cans, I have never had an issue with anything unless I used it once or twice then it sat for months before another use. I do turn them upside down to clear the tube, and if they are going to sit I now put the nozzles in a jar of Super Clean or lacquer thinner til I want to use them again.

Also, if it is a used/partial can, I warm it in boiling water and shake the bejesus out of it and test spray it. Only issue was a used year old can of school bus yellow and it sprayed thicker than wanted but it was for a Caterpillar engine so I used it anyway.  

[steveracer]

Hey guys, I am surprised not a ONE of you have voted by RETURNING the product (s) to the store and get a new can or refund.  The Rust O Leum's of the world will never feel the pain if they don't have to warranty any product, and just sell more and more.  Take it back, try again, rinse and then DON'T repeat. 

[BlackSheep214]

Interesting. I use Rustoleum paint and primer in one rattle cans with zero issues. My Primer colors are usually white and grey. I’ve used their satin black, flat black, canyon black and Desert rose colors.... again, with zero issues. 

Have you tried decanting? I have and it does spray far better through an airbrush than straight out of the rattle can. Something to think about.

I’m not a big fan of Krylon rattlecan paints because they changed their formula the last time I used them.

[Dave G.]

4 hours ago, BlackSheep214 said:

Interesting. I use Rustoleum paint and primer in one rattle cans with zero issues. My Primer colors are usually white and grey. I’ve used their satin black, flat black, canyon black and Desert rose colors.... again, with zero issues. 

Have you tried decanting? I have and it does spray far better through an airbrush than straight out of the rattle can. Something to think about.

I’m not a big fan of Krylon rattlecan paints because they changed their formula the last time I used them.

With the Paasche H and medium needle, decanted 2X or the older Painters Touch, with a touch of lacquer thinner added I can get 4- 5 really nice wet smooth coats down on my model parts and not have the film thickness of one or two coats from the can. The finish has been quite beautiful doing this.

But I suspect folks want to rattle can because they don't want to airbrush, so for them the airbrush is a moot point. The best I can say if that's the case is to heat the can so it's comfortably warm to the touch. I don't recommend boiling water as one member suggested. There is a limit to how hot then it gets dangerous. As you heat the can in hot water, pick it up and re-shake it repeated times till it doesn't go cold when you shake it. Then you know the paint is warm all the way through. This adds pressure but more importantly, lowers viscosity of the paint.

[steveracer]

This thing just plugged up on me. My current favorite heavy fill primer. Maybe 15% gone in the can.  I thinner soaked the tip. It’s still plugged. I blew compressed air down the tube back into the can. That is not the problem. So I drilled out the tip with a 75 bit and it sprays pretty heavy.  
 

this will be a nice way to decant it. I may suggest a smaller drill bit to run through those crummy tips. 

[bluestringer]

I've had problems with all the blacks except for the flat. The grey and white primers do good. The metallic silver is great. The only colors I have tried are the Spa Blue and Apple Red, both did ok, but I like the Krylon colors better. 

[Mike C.]

14 hours ago, steveracer said:

Hey guys, I am surprised not a ONE of you have voted by RETURNING the product (s) to the store and get a new can or refund.  The Rust O Leum's of the world will never feel the pain if they don't have to warranty any product, and just sell more and more.  Take it back, try again, rinse and then DON'T repeat. 

Thats a good theory that I never tried but I'm so used to getting burned by these kind of things where they make you fill out a thousand pages of paperwork designed to put your identity at risk and make the whole ordeal not even worth it (do you think thats by accident?) For 8 dollars they can stick that can in an undisclosed body part.

[steveracer]

Funny Mike!  ?   But I just take it back to Lowes or wherever and they do it no hassle!  

[Mike C.]

I have a better plan. I only buy Testors and Tamiya lacquer paint now.

[rust-n-dust]

I used to deal with Krylon, it was hit and miss. That's why I started airbrushing craft paint, if it comes out funky you can just wash it off and after it dries it hold up rather well, then I clear it with Future

[Rodent]

Honestly, we have run off the rails (again). Riley was trying to get some real-world 2X experiences and try to tabulate then into a good vs bad reference document.

If I had to drag out my airbrush every time I wanted to paint something, I would get even less accomplished at the bench. I save the airbrush for custom mixed colors and Scale Finishes. Otherwise, bodies and sometimes interiors are painted mostly with Tamiya rattle cans, even though I have a fair amount of Testors lacquer in the stash and use it occasionally.

I used to use the Testors Metallizers in rattle cans for engine blocks, transmissions, steering racks, exhaust, etc. We all know how that ended, and I bought a can of the 2X aluminum "just for fun" to (hopefully) replace the Testors Aluminum plate. I liked it. Their grey primer is OK as well, IMHO. I use automotive or "hardware store" primer on bodies if I have had to do any filling or reshaping because it seems to fill better. Otherwise, it's Tamiya or Tamiya Fine.

 

[steveracer]

Ok, so to be truthful, I never realized there is a 2x brand and that it may be different from regular Rustoleum.  So I guess I can't really comment on that.

Question, which tips do they use on the 2x brand?  More than one design?  If I may ask?