Cutting styrene tubing

[Jordan White]

Are there any tips to cutting styrene tubing straight, short of getting that desktop electric miter saw? I have the (Xacto?) miter box, and I am having a hard time keeping the tubes in place while I cut, leaving an angled edge that I have to try to square up with my Xacto knife. 

[Miatatom]

I use the Xacto miter box and a fine tooth razor saw. Hobbylinc has a 32 tooth per inch.

https://www.hobbylinc.com/zona-universal-razor-32-tpi-saw-hobby-razor-saw-35500

They also have a 42 tooth per inch.

https://www.hobbylinc.com/zona-razor-saw-42t:in-hobby-razor-saw-35-550

[Casey]

Is your razor saw deep enough? You may need to shim what's being cut upwards so that the saw doesn't bottom out.

It helps to use light pressure, too, when cutting, or the saw blade will wander. I usually slide the cut end to the end of the miter box and use that end to sand the end of the cut piece to a true (or close) 90*, too.

[64SS350]

Also with using that miter box and the xacto saws, if you hold the material on 'your' side of the box, draw the saw towards you, if held on opposite side, push saw away from you. This forces the material against the wall of the box.

[Casey]

8 minutes ago, 64SS350 said:

Also with using that miter box and the xacto saws, if you hold the material on 'your' side of the box, draw the saw towards you, if held on opposite side, push saw away from you. This forces the material against the wall of the box.

Newer aluminum boxes have a lip which can be placed against the edge of the table, to prevent the box from moving when cutting on the push stroke, too.

[NOBLNG]

I use the Exacto mitre box also. I keep a finger up against the side of the saw blade to hold it tight against one side of the slot. The slot in the mitre box is wide enough that the saw can wobble if not held vertical. And yes, some blades are not deep enough to work properly. The top one in the pic Is too shallow to be used with the box.

Edited February 22, 2022 by NOBLNG

[NOBLNG]

I attached some sandpaper to a piece of square bar with double faced tape that I can square up the cut if it is off a touch.

[R. Thorne]

Great tips and pictures, guys.

[Jordan White]

Thanks for the tips so far, didn't think of using the end of the box to help square it off! I am using the saw that came with the miter box, but I think it must have too low of a tooth count and is making the cutting tough. I will look into getting a higher tooth count saw and hopefully that will help!

[Miatatom]

One other tip, when I cut plastic,  I always pull the saw towards me. 

[Smoke Wagon]

I like the idea of a miter box, I’ve just been cutting Evergreen with a hobby knife and sanding the cut flush. A problem with the way I’ve been doing it is that short lengths of plastic can shoot away like a bullet if not held down while cutting. I assume with a miter box this is negated due to a gentle sawing motion rather than the cut/chopping motion of a hobby knife. 

[Bainford]

Hobby saws are available in both 'push' and 'pull' configurations, referring to the stroke on which they are designed do their cutting. Though 'push' is most common, I usually look for a 'pull' blade. For years, before I knew both types were available, I always used the 'push' blade in the 'pull' direction in the mitre box, as Tom mentioned above. Regardless of which type of blade you have, you will likely find better control if used in the pull direction. Even a 'push' blade will cut/wear through plastic and soft metals when pulled, and sometimes with better control than using the proper 'pull' blade. I also find that a 46 TPI blade (Teeth Per Inch) or finer is preferable for model work.

[yh70]

i do use my miter box a lot but i also got these .. get u a set i think u will like them..https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_tools_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A0802540271O7LP23UCW1&url=%2FGARTOL-Lengthen-Multifunctional-Adjustable-Replacement%2Fdp%2FB08FR4XS5J%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fcrid%3D1Z8YBUETXJ1LT%26keywords%3DGARTOL%2BMiter%2BShears%26qid%3D1645569405%26s%3Dhi%26sprefix%3Dgartol%2Bmiter%2Bshears%2Ctools%2C129%26sr%3D1-1-spons%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1645569405&id=4394493787431029&widgetName=sp_atf

Edited February 22, 2022 by yh70

[Straightliner59]

I've found beeswax very helpful in lubricating saw blades and drill bits. I have one of those plastic containers of it, from the sewing department. It has slits in it. Just drag the saw blade through it. It makes a huge difference, in the saw's performance. It cuts with less effort, and that makes for truer cuts, more easily.

[SfanGoch]

Get yourself a K & S Engineering #296 tube cutter. It'll cut styrene, copper, brass, and aluminum tubing.

[deuces wild]

2 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

I've found beeswax very helpful in lubricating saw blades and drill bits. I have one of those plastic containers of it, from the sewing department. It has slits in it. Just drag the saw blade through it. It makes a huge difference, in the saw's performance. It cuts with less effort, and that makes for truer cuts, more easily.

We use that stuff on our 90° roloc sanding discs for grinding cast aluminum.... Great stuff!!!!!..... ?

[deuces wild]

1 hour ago, SfanGoch said:

Get yourself a K & S Engineering #296 tube cutter. It'll cut styrene, copper, brass, and aluminum tubing.

I have 2 of those....