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Posted

I've just used a cheap ebay airbrush for about 4 years now. Still goes great. I think the most important thing is the type of paint you use and adding mr levelling thinner to stop tip dry and rough finishes during hot weather.

 

Mike

Posted

I decided to buy some products related to airbrush maintenance. I purchased the SharpenAir needle sharpening tool and an Iwata Airbrush Maintenance Tool Kit. The Sharpen Air product is listed as being compatible with most of the major airbrush manufacturers' needles (Paasche, Badger, Iwata, Grex, Harder and Steenbeck, Master, Sata and DeVilbiss) Due to lack of necessity, I have not used the SharpenAir needle sharpening tool yet LOL However, I am sure that sometime in the future it will be most useful. I did use the needle packing screwdriver in the Iwata set. It made removing the old needle packing from an Eclipse gravity feed airbrush easy to do. Putting a new packing in is relatively easy. The tricky part is getting just the right amount of compression on the packing so that there is a slight feel of friction as the needle passes through the packing. For those interested, I purchased these through Maple Airbrush in Edmonton, AB. This is an online e-business. Prices and shipping are very reasonable.

SharpenAir.jpg

Iwata 1.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Forgive me but i havent read the entire thread but as far as cleaning a airbrush or even a small HVLP gun, a ultrasonic cleaner and a gallon of Super Clean is all you need

Between changing colors in my Neo,i run a little water through first to get to bulk of the paint out,then to the UC and i just hold the gun just so the paint bowl in under water and give it 2 minuets,it comes out like you did a complete disassemble and clean.

I do sometimes take it apart and turn the heater on for a through cleaning.

I only use water base paints in the AB,anything else gose outside to the shop HVLP

Heres the one i have 

$90 is not cheap in my veiw but i also use it for other household task too,cleaning the LOML's jewels,glasses and much more....................

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GA1I3M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Model on :lol:

Edited by Spruslayer
spelling
Posted
7 hours ago, foxbat426 said:

Paache H. Don’t buy the harbor freight airbrushes. They're cheap and not worth the trouble.  

Some Hobby Lobby's have the Paasche H for $25.  I go the Paasche H set at HL for $25 and the VL set for $34 this past week.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello guys. Pretty much everyone is right , with their experience of certain air brushes etc. I do not use a air brush for painting car bodies. I use a sata mini jet, with a .8 tip and needle. I use the air brush for interior and other stuff and use tamiya acrylics. I also use automotive paints. It works the best for me. It really comes down to experience, and what you are used to. Don Yost has the best for model cat painting. His results are great and will not break the bank. I’m in the auto industry so I get my products from the paint distributor. The amount I need it’s free and he loves models even though he does not build. ( we spend $15 thou a month on materials, so he can spare a little)If you want to know about car paints , I can tell you all about it. But the other guys will be better at model paints. Here are some examples of automotive paints;

8AC2159E-A632-4656-85CE-99A98C6006D1.jpeg

1DCAD2F3-C77D-4477-961D-6428E7EBB208.jpeg

1FEC98E8-A5D9-42DD-AB55-4EE6A570E11E.jpeg

A1CAF79A-DC78-4423-92AD-89211AFB3586.jpeg

2C864575-E2F3-4306-B2BD-6015915F4666.jpeg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

There are a lot of cheaply made Chinese made air brushes on the market. Best avoid these if serious use is contemplated. Best stick with established manufacturers of a quality product like Paasche, Badger, Harder and Steenbeck, Aerograph DeVilbiss or Iwata. All of these have proved their worth over the years having sold to the graphic design industry initially long before model makers started to use them. All these quality manufacturers have various types at prices to suit most. Cannot comment on Grex of Aztec having not used any of their products. There is an old adage ' You only get what you pay for' and this is very relevant in the air brush market!

  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)
On 9/24/2018 at 3:38 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

There is an old adage ' You only get what you pay for' and this is very relevant in the air brush market!

I used to have a VW and any time I wanted to cheap out on an aftermarket car part to save a few bucks my wife would say "Buy once, cry once"  .... I always spent the extra for the quality part. I just needed the reminder sometimes.

 

Edited by Ich_Will
  • Xingu changed the title to Buying My First Airbrush (or Compressor) Questions.
Posted
On 9/24/2018 at 4:38 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

There are a lot of cheaply made Chinese made air brushes on the market. Best avoid these if serious use is contemplated. Best stick with established manufacturers of a quality product like Paasche, Badger, Harder and Steenbeck, Aerograph DeVilbiss or Iwata.

Not necessarily. I use a Procon Boy PS290. Sprays an oval pattern and is a near identical copy of an expensive Iwata model. I still say start with a Paasche H. Inexpensive and it produces great results. But then, it is your money.

Posted

The Ps-290 is made in Japan not China  and is very much the quality of Iwata , I have it and the Iwata Eclipse and Revolution.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 2/6/2019 at 8:21 PM, 935k3 said:

The Ps-290 is made in Japan not China  and is very much the quality of Iwata , I have it and the Iwata Eclipse and Revolution.

The PS 290 is a fantastic air brush like my friend Dale is saying, its top notch quality,  its a very solid piece,  and it compliments my two Eclipses .

I will say this, I wish I got the .3 instead of the .5

Posted
4 hours ago, martinfan5 said:

The PS 290 is a fantastic air brush like my friend Dale is saying, its top notch quality,  its a very solid piece,  and it compliments my two Eclipses .

I will say this, I wish I got the .3 instead of the .5

Johnathon, why do you think you'd prefer the .3 over the .5.  I have the .5 myself.

Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, Miatatom said:

Johnathon, why do you think you'd prefer the .3 over the .5.  I have the .5 myself.

Tom, I have two Eclipses , one with the .35 and one with the .5 and I prefer the .3 as I use it pretty much all the time, to me, the .5 needle set uses more paint , and I prefer the less paint that is used on the .3 needle set .     Don't get me wrong, I really enjoy using the Procon Brush.  

Edited by martinfan5
Posted
On 3/31/2019 at 12:52 AM, martinfan5 said:

Tom, I have two Eclipses , one with the .35 and one with the .5 and I prefer the .3 as I use it pretty much all the time, to me, the .5 needle set uses more paint , and I prefer the less paint that is used on the .3 needle set .     Don't get me wrong, I really enjoy using the Procon Brush.  

If you like the  trigger type look at the NEO for Iwata TRN-1 it has a .35mm tip. I have been using and the Ps-290(for bigger stuff)

 

N5500_TRN1-A1_670x546.jpg

Posted
1 minute ago, 935k3 said:

If you like the  trigger type look at the NEO for Iwata TRN-1 it has a .35mm tip. I have been using and the Ps-290(for bigger stuff)

 

N5500_TRN1-A1_670x546.jpg

I like using it , but I love using my Eclipses, and don't want to give up using them for a trigger ;):D

Posted
Just now, martinfan5 said:

I like using it , but I love using my Eclipses, and don't want to give up using them for a trigger ;):D

I have an Eclipse too. It is a great airbrush.

Posted
22 minutes ago, 935k3 said:

I have an Eclipse too. It is a great airbrush.

Yep,  I ended up with two( but only paid for one, semi boring story) one has the .35 and one has the .5,  they are wonderful Airbrush,  workhorses ,  worth every penny.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I know this is an old thread and I'm too darn lazy to read the 6 pages but I have a question. I

Does it matter if the compressor has a tank or is tankless?  I have a Harbor Frieght pancake, I think 100psi and the pressure drops 10-15 psi as soon as I shoot the paint.

Posted
2 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

I know this is an old thread and I'm too darn lazy to read the 6 pages but I have a question. I

Does it matter if the compressor has a tank or is tankless?  I have a Harbor Frieght pancake, I think 100psi and the pressure drops 10-15 psi as soon as I shoot the paint.

A tank is handy for keeping the pressure constant as you are using the air from the tank instead of direct from the pump

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