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Everything posted by Rick L
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Max 2K Clearcoat Gone Wrong
Rick L replied to 69NovaYenko's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
That is an extremely unusual looking reaction you have there. I’m sorry to hear of all the prep work you did to see this happen. There are many options here for a fix but I think we need to look at the cause of the problem. I remember years ago we had a novice employee paint a finished architectural model after eating a pizza and it looked a lot like your model. So may I ask if you had by chance handled it with something greasy or polish before topcoat? -
Tiny chrome parts breaking
Rick L replied to 81Jaybird's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
That’s a good idea. I like making multiple passes with a sharp #11 exact o blade until the part gives in. -
This looks like it’s going to be fun.
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Sink hole refuses to go away!
Rick L replied to bh1701's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have to agree with you there but you can’t buy it by the ounce. The smallest amount I can find is a 36 oz. can at $36.00, so yes it costs $1.00 an oz. but I’m not repairing 1:1 cars. I’m using it on 1:25 scale models. 36oz. Is more than enough resin I’ll need before it dries out. -
Sink hole refuses to go away!
Rick L replied to bh1701's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I’ve found Evercoat Polyester Glazing putty to be the best in the industry. Very fine, smooth, easy to sand and most importantly minimal shrinkage if any. Expensive but worth the money. Another note about polyester resins is to keep it well sealed in the can and thoroughly mix EVERY time you use it. -
Sink hole refuses to go away!
Rick L replied to bh1701's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Be careful and patient with your paint. The lacquer is shrinking the filler. Be sure to apply your paint in layers, working up the volume of paint as you go. Be sure each layer is dry and hard. This will give you protection from the next coat to attack and soften its underlying coat. The super glue idea will also work to block the lacquer from eating underneath but you need to sand that smooth before paint. So be careful not to sand that out. -
If you use CA, don’t waste your Zap. Just hit it with water. It will kick instantly and harden to sand out.
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I was one of those looking forward to that build thread. Or did I miss it?
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You’re painting under some tough conditions. The hot part is favorable but the humid part can create a little havoc in the form of blushing in the paint finish. Blushing is caused by the high moisture in the air mixing with the paint flow as you paint, causing the paint to dry unevenly and effect the gloss pattern. So, not only are you going to have to set your tent up for the dust. You need to wait for low humidity conditions. I suggest you make the best of it. Wait for a dry day, pack the tent, a couple of six packs, some food, the fishing rod, the model and all the paint and go camping.
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Can you send them back to the manufacturer?
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I’ve used Golf glove leather at times but the black and browns are harder to come by. Most all of them come in white now.
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- leather
- bookbinding
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Where did you get this? At .015 Does it come in brown?
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I’ve used pPg only as a necessity and had no issues with its wax and grease remover on styrene but I agree with the guys on this discussion. Not all solvents are the same. Good old soap and water is the most economical solution on the release agents used. You don’t need glove protection and you’ll keep your hands oh so baby soft.?
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So to answer your question, a .815 O.D heater hose in 1/24 scale would be .0339. That’s .815 divided by 24. The closest nominal number would be .03125 or 1/32 dia.
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For 1/24 scale divide the 1/1 number by 24, for 1/25 scale divide by 25, for 1/8 scale divide by 8, for 1/16 scale divide by 16, 1/87 divide by 87 and so on. For multiplication conversion divide the scale number you’re building into 1 and you will get a decimal equivalent So for 1/24 scale, 1” divided by 24=.041”. From that number multiply the 1/1 size that you want to model and you will get the scale size. So a 2” radiator hose in 1/24 scale would be 2”X.041=.082”. I hope that helps.
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Water is also a solvent. When Pete refers to solvent based paint he is referring to lacquer or enamel.
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Remember the good old days ??????????
Rick L replied to Vietnam Vet67's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
I remember the old neighborhood that was built after WW2 and all the neighbors that bought homes and had kids at the same time. Everyone looked after each other and watched the kids. The mom’s and dad’s were everyone’s mom’s and dad’s. I remember when my parents didn’t lock the house up when we went out for the day. I remember gas was 29.9 cents a gallon and $3.00 would fill a VW beetle only if it was almost bone dry. I remember the pledge of allegiance in school. I remember when everyone had respect for the president of our country no matter what party affiliation. I remember the end of my good old days when Jack Kennedy was killed and conspiracy theories flew. Resulting in the lack of respect for government and authority. This is strictly the version of my world growing up and I know other people had theirs that may counter mine. But all I can say is those were the good old days to me and they were happy ones. -
Modeling vs. reality
Rick L replied to El Roberto's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Exactly. -
Modeling vs. reality
Rick L replied to El Roberto's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Everyone is entitled to an opinion. I may not quite understand your intention but please keep in mind that expressing those opinions of someone’s work could be hurtful to some young kid who thinks his model is worth sharing on this site. -
AMT 1963 Impala kit bashed with Lindberg 1961 Impala
Rick L replied to ranma's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Wow! How’d you get that car to sit on it’s side? ? just kidding. That looks awesome. -
Paint not drying on resin parts
Rick L replied to NOBLNG's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Unfortunately, this may be a flaw in the resin casting. Some polyurethane resins are quick curing parts A and B and one of those parts are not mixed correctly before they are mixed for casting. This results in a web of uncured plastic inside and protruding to the outside of the part. You may have to dig it out a little or the web will keep bleeding out under the paint. You can use any stripper suggested for the paint used. It shouldn’t effect the plastic but look carefully at the area that inhibited the paint to see if there is a dark hairline web. That’s the critter you have to dig out before repainting or it will happen again. -
Paint not drying on resin parts
Rick L replied to NOBLNG's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Have you tried painting something other than a resin casting. -
The flat spot in the belly is to get the body to sit slightly lower for the tires that I’m using.
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“33” from Revell. One of the poorest designed models I’ve worked on. The roof, windshield and windows were a separate unit from the body???? It took a lot of bodywork to hide the seam. I also filled in the trunk line.
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Personally, I think 12,000 might be a little overkill. The Novus will take over pretty well. I stoped at 2000 on this 33.