TooOld Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 Beautiful interior Steve , that color looks perfect ! The addition of the "Buddy Seat" really makes it stand out , along with your dash . . . love how you did the bezels ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 Fabulous work on the interior! David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotnitro? Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 Beautiful interior details and the gold color really brings the seat details to life . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott8950 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 That interior looks amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drodg Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 That interior looks so correct and actually fabulous. I love the column shift also. Great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Ellis Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 On 8/19/2021 at 10:21 PM, StevenGuthmiller said: Finished and added the scratch made under dash 8-track tape player. The dash looks awesome. Did you make sure the eight track player ate tapes? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 Needs an 8 track cartridge laying on the transmission hump, with a string of twisted up tape leading up to the player! HAHAHA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 6 Author Share Posted September 6 Thanks everyone. I've moved on now to the chassis, and the only real issue with using the Revell Charger chassis under the MPC Coronet is the wheel base. In the real world, the '68 Coronet and Charger shared the same 117 inch wheel base, but things don't always mesh in 1/25th scale I guess. The Charger chassis fits pretty well with a little bit of trimming, and a tiny bit of grinding is necessary to eliminate a little bit of real wheel well "protrusion" at the front of the rear wheel opening. Easy fix! A little more involved is the fact that the rear axle sits too far back, and is too narrow for the rear wheels to look right in the openings. That, and the fact that for the position that the chassis is required to sit in the body due to interior location, the entire rear axle needed to be moved slightly forward, widened and raised to look right. I started this operation by trimming the front off of the springs and moving them the correct distance forward and then created new front attachment points. The rear chassis spring location blocks then needed to be removed and I covered the holes with some simple "plates". Next, new rear shackles were made to bring the height up to where I wanted it. Then the original rear axles were removed at the springs and new longer axles were added to widen the track. It's probably a tad higher, and the rear track a little wider than an actual 1:1, but I wanted it to have an aggressive stance, as well as to fill the wheel opening. I've always had the impression that a wider track almost always looks much better than too narrow. Anyway, I think I have all of the rear axle mods done now, although later mods will no doubt be needed for shocks and the drive shaft, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott8950 Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 Looking good Steve... I agree a wider track looks better than a narrow track... Can't wait to see this finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 Yep! Looks about right, I'd say!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 7 Author Share Posted September 7 Thanks guys! As I was finishing up the rear axle mods, I was reminded by fellow member Frank Filosa, (Dodge Driver) that it would be correct to add torque boxes to the frame for a Hemi car. I've said it many times, but this is precisely the reason why I like doing protracted build threads! I am by no means an expert on a lot of this stuff, and very often, people who are following along will catch things and make suggestions. I might not always apply every suggestion, but it sure is nice to have the facts as the build progresses rather than when it's finished and too late! I appreciate the suggestion immensely Frank!! Thank you!! It wasn't too bad to add them. Might have taken an extra hour or so. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 The wheel position and ride height look correct. Nice scratch building (I assume) on the torque boxes. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldnslow Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) The torque boxes are a nice touch , now the front spring hanger just needs to bolt to the torque box , not the body . A small detail that might not be worth the effort , but noticeable . I've watched too many Graveyard Cars episodes . 😎 Edited September 8 by oldnslow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 (edited) 7 hours ago, oldnslow said: The torque boxes are a nice touch , now the front spring hanger just needs to bolt to the torque box , not the body . A small detail that might not be worth the effort , but noticeable . I've watched too many Graveyard Cars episodes . 😎 Any photos on what you're referring to? I'm not able to find anything. I think I know what you mean, but I'm having a hard time finding reference photos. I'm assuming that the front mounting brackets should just be flipped 90 degrees to the front? This is the best that I could find. Steve Edited September 8 by StevenGuthmiller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatz4u Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Steve, you said the interior was finished, if so where are the 8 track tapes???/.......😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 1 hour ago, thatz4u said: Steve, you said the interior was finished, if so where are the 8 track tapes???/.......😁 I decided to skip the "clutter". Although, if I can find something that reasonably resembles a tape case, I might throw it in the back seat. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Have another look at the gas tank …. Are you tempted to grind off the Chrysler stamping on the surface of the tank … ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 9 Author Share Posted September 9 1 hour ago, absmiami said: Have another look at the gas tank …. Are you tempted to grind off the Chrysler stamping on the surface of the tank … ?? Already did it. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooOld Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Swapping a chassis almost always involves some modifications and you've shown that with some careful planning it can be an easy process . The torque boxes are another simple addition that really improves the look , nicely done ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misha Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 In building my 62 Plymouth Savoy I added torque boxes front and rear, including the brace under the front wheel well. I based these modifications on photos from the web. I’ve been following your build Steven from the beginning and have found it to be very informative and inspiring, thanks for sharing your techniques. Cheers Misha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldnslow Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) Hey Steve , the picture I posted is of a 68 Corronet torque box , you can see the bolt arrangement on the wall of the box on the spring side and no provision for a shackle to bolt to the floor pan . I Googled "1968 Corronet Hemi torque box" . Edited September 9 by oldnslow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 I'M very impressed as always Steve with the details you capture. Just impressive all the way around. cheers, tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 23 Author Share Posted September 23 Still slowly trying to get some more chassis work finished. First order of business after spending what feels like way too much time sanding mold seams off of a good portion of the parts, was modifying the exhaust system to fit the motor. I clipped off a section of each exhaust pipe and added styrene rod to extend the pipes to the exhaust manifolds. I also really hated the rear "hangers" for the exhaust, so I ground off the molded in "block" and just added a piece of thin rod instead. Probably not exactly correct for exhaust hangers, but I wasn't too concerned with that. I just had to get rid of those huge blocks! 🤢 Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtx6970 Posted September 23 Share Posted September 23 (edited) You've gone this far keep it up. You might as well add the frame rail stub Revell missed AND Hemi cars have chassis re-enforcement plates added in addition to the toque boxes Rear spring hanger re-inforcements ( edit ---- picture is marked 66-67 , but 68 thru 70 are essentially the same ) Edited September 23 by gtx6970 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtx6970 Posted September 23 Share Posted September 23 Front re-enforcements 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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