935k3

Got the front suspension done. This area took allot of rework due to suspension parts and cutouts for a motorized version. There were no brakes, added parts box brakes and scratch built brake cooling duct and tubing to brake.

I have the Eclipse. The change to the .5mm was good. It makes a great all around brush. All paints need thinned properly with any size tip & needle. i ending up getting the Iwata Revolution with the .5mm standard. Now I have the best of both sizes and do not having to change tips and needles. If you decant Tamiya Sprays they need thinning, their Laquer Thinner was made for this and works well with all decanted paints.

I had to start a new thread for this wip because I can't find the original. This the 1/20 scale Porsche Martini 935. I still have some touch up etc. on the engine. The front half of the roll cage is scratchbuilt and a few other things including the foot rest in front of the pedals and the puke tank on the rear shelf. . The wheels were de-chromed and painted with Alclad Pale Gold and Spaztix Chrome. The distributor is scratched and has 14 wires going in thanks to the dual ignition for the flat six. The tires are from an old build, they will be cleaned up and the lettering redone.

I have a hot water pot they sell at Target(see below). I dip then damp off on a paper towel then press. I actually use tissues most of the time. I use a Q-tip for smaller areas. It works better than any solvent.

You get no wrinkles and the decal is set instantly with the hot damp cloth.

Checkout the INDYCAL decals for this kit.

Try putting some soapy water under them to move them easily. When in position press them with hot damp cloth to make them conform. You still might need a couple of small cuts.

This one. I have new one to build better someday.

where?

Nice job Ray. a couple of tips for decals; Try pressing with a hot damp cloth or tissue to conform, it's instant and no wrinkles. You can use a hot damp Q-tip for smaller areas like ducts. If you have trouble with decals sticking try some Future under them.

Did anybody know about this coming out? http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1146380

I think there was a discussion about the tire size at f1m.com. Check it out.

i built one. The engraving in the engine bay is weak(not crisp) I glued the cover down and displayed it curbside. I would not spend allot of money on it. Also it is 1/24scale and does not look good with a 1/20 scale collection as most F1 kits are.

simple Lacquer- 91% Alcohol Enamel and primer - Purple Power. LA Awesome, Easy Off (yellow can)

Airbrush

Instead of decal solvents try a hot damp cloth pressed over the decal. Use a hot damp q-tip for small areas like a NACA duct.

amazing work. What do you do for a living? Has it contributed to your amazing skills?

Have you tried it. I have and it works, Using does not affect the Alclad.

It was probably reaction between the paint and the wrap. I had this happen once with KRYLON. I now use toilet paper and never had any issues. You probably will have to sand and polish.

Try SALLY BEAUTY stores they have the best selection around. They also show up at dollar stores sometimes.

A coat of Future applied with a Q-Tip will protect the paint while handling. When done remove the Future with ammonia and the shine will come back.

This method is what I do and it saves allot of paper

I discovered it when taping down the edge of a small piece to paint. It lifted off and the decal was still there and worked normally without the sheet on top and was much thinner. Try it on a small piece.

Matt I think you are right on about this.I was using TS-13 and this happened every time I did a silver car using using TS -17 Gloss Aluminum as a base. I tried the mixture and it worked much better. That tip was recommended way by Bob Downie . I stopped using TS-13 and switched to Testors Wet Look Clear, it is definitely less hot than TS-13.