Muncie

Exactly - None close - but have three or four on my path for running errands - Each is unique and it changes beween stops. Never know what I'll find or not.

Thanks for the tips - should be useful for other paints as well. I think you fixed the problem I had with One Shot... My only expereience with spraying one shot was with some advice from a local club member. He used Darby's reducer to thin the One Shot for spraying and he mentioned that it atomizes so finely that the overspray goes everywhere - his paint booth was in the laundry room and red overspray turned all the whites pink. The results on the model were incredible - smooth with very high gloss. So I tried it - in the garage... Thirty years and two moves later I still find traces of yellow One Shot overspray. It stayed wet with the Darby's reducer so it stuck everywhere it landed. I may have to try it again - your instruction to spray with lacquer thinner should eliminate a lot of the oversary problems.

iinboard and outboard drums - It's the mounting location on the hub flange. Inboard drums are mounted on the inboad side of the hub flange so the hub and bearings have to be disassembled to change brake linings. They probably disappeard in the '80's. Outboard drums are mounted on the outboard side of the hub flange and can be removed by just sliding them off the wheel studs - makes life easier. Wouldn't be noticeable on a model truck but cool that somebody has heard of them. Typical drum size is 15X4 front, 16-1/2x7 rear(?memory test) - thats the size of the surface that contacts the brake lining. front brakes don't have the dual chambers - no parking brakes on the front axle. Most of the AMT kits were originally made before Federal regulations required front brakes. The instruction sheet that you show is typical and front brakes could be sourced from any kit of the same vintage with front brakes. The truck manufacurers all used similar pieces from the available brake manufacturer suppliers. Just stay away from the wedge brakes on the White Frieghtliners. CF was about the only fleet that I can remember that ran them.

just a heads-up.. it may take two kits (or a trade here) to get good wheels. The kit has two good wheels and two that have an offset at the parting line in the mold

Wouldn't it be cool if the T came with Little T and SweeTee parts in the same kit and the Little Deuce and Son of Ford also came in the same kit? Would realy like to see stock hood sides in the Monogram Deuce!

Well done! That shows why we want this back with the original Little T parts....

update - Also received my 3 year old order today - good to see Jeff is getting these taken care of - no issues with the quality of the product

not a problem - just giving a heads-up to those without paypal who are thinking about dealing with him

from the remaiining pieces of the '28 Lincoln that I built in my youth... tire OD - 1.60" (40") whitewall insert OD - 1.20" (30") Tire/whitewal ID 0.965 (24" measured - not sure what the 1:1 wheel size is) 0.275 wide dual spares so 6 tires with wheels in the kit - no funky plastic spares or spare tire covers They are a bit narrower and different than the tires in the '32 Chrysler

From what's been posted here, it looks like some of us are still waitng for orders - mine back to 2011... Purchasing through Ebay may offer some protection but I won't send him another dime.

might want to search the history for Time Machine on the forum... may be OK on Ebay - but otherwise not so good... Modelhaus has several Mopar scoops. Their online store has them listed under the car that they are made for. I bought a pair of twin scoops for a 1971 Duster from them a while back. They may have others - check under Demon also. Good parts, good service. Ususally a 4-6 week wait but worth it and you will get what you ordered.

I've got one of these Corvettes going with the custom parts also - found an empty box last year with the custom parts to build using the AMT kit that's in the stores now. To mess with you plans a iittle bit... The interior tub in the '62 kit includes the trunk interior - the later issues don't. Unless the back of the body is opened up under the custom rear end with the custom roof, it is not visible or required with the custom version. The latest AMT1962 "sock to me" Corvette is basically the same kit minus the trunk and the cool cutomizing parts - If you get one of those, you can start mixing parts and end up with both the cutom version with the roof and a 1962 Corvette with the opening trunk that was only in the 1962 issue. That's two cool Corvettes. Careful lining up the roof - it doesn't fit very well.

Louie Louie

Some automotive paints are too "hot" and will craze the plastic - not a good start for a paint job. You'll probably need something as a bariier coat between the plastic and the paint. Many use good old Plastikote primer T-235 - it's my go to but it is fairly coarse grained which makes a thicker layer of primer. I've used automitve sealer as well - not a bad place to start - covers everything and goes under anything. Sealer comes ready to spray and requires no mixing It goes on very thin. The old can I have is Ditzler PGG DL1970. If you ask 20 people about paint, you'll get 40 answers. As noted above find out what works best for you.

Thanks Tim - Good to see the introduction. I knew the truck was in the works but didn't know when. Add me to those who want to see an all new kit as well.

and last week - BMW, Roush, Tiffin, Bluebird Paccar (KW, Peterbilt) and Honda were among the manufacturers that submited Defect Information Reports to NHTSA to recall motor vehicles to remedy a defect that affects motor vehicle safety on vehicles that had been delivered to customers...

I agree with Wayne

Freightliner is a "custom truck" builder and wheelbase is offered in one inch increments. Sorry, I just can't get the brain cells to work well enough to remember the common wheelsbases... depends mostly on cab and sleeper size plus forward or set-back front axle location. Ebay is a good idea, also look for trucks for sale. The truck specs should include the wheelbase. Wheelbase is measured from front axle to the centerline of the tandem. Freightliner sleeper sizes were 34", 40" and 60". The 63" was an Able Body raised roof sleeper with different design and construction that was offered for a short time before Freightliner introduced their own 60" raised roof sleeper. Fuel tanks on conventionals were standard at 22-7/8" diameter from 60 to 140 gallon in 10 gallon increments. 27-1/4 fuel tank diameter was optional in 70 to 150 gallons - sometimes used when rail space was limited. 170 gallon tanks were almost never used on conventionals because they were 29" diameter and could not be used for cab entry steps.

Tim, Thank you for the color infomation - good to know the gold paint is not locked in with the oxblood upholstery.

Thanks Tim - it's good to have some good reference. I was thinking oxblood for the interior on my project. Is the gold the sandard interior paint color with oxblood trim or did Pete use the exterior color? Have to agree about wanting some steel wheels but will probably use the wheels - strip and refinish them to get an unpolished look.

Grew up in a Mopar family - Learned to drive in a 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca, and a 1971 Satelite. Ether of those would be OK That '68 Impala would be wonderful - and with woodgrain trim could easily be a Caprice But the one I want is a 1956 Chevrolet 210 Handyman 2-door wagon. One of the resin bodies is close, but none have the tailgate good enough. With the Nomad chassis and the DelRay sedan, Revell is 3/4 there. Could aslo make a sedan delivery out of it. Other than some general appeal as a junior stocker drag car or cool street car, probably not enough to make it to production.

Bill, enjoyed the video, looks like a good resource - and the vertex diagram is perfect for some early dragster projects in the queue - thanks,Steve

The Mallory super mags used on Funny car and top fuel in the 70's (probably 60's and 80's also) had an external coil for each magneto - Revell may have created the impression that there was no coil because they molded the coil into the engine block on the 70's funny cars... Google, Yahoo and the Mallory website should produce lots of reference for the time period that you are intersted in.

Thanks Brett - that answers a lot of questions

True in some companies - too many out there to say it's not. However, the proliferation and maintenence of new drawing numbers is a huge expense. A new drawing requires someplace to keep it - Affected bills of material will need to be revised or created, procurement needs ot be handled to build inventory, production changeover has to be set-up and completed, purchasing asgreements may be affected - even replacement parts systems need to deal with new inventory and part numbers. Lots of things that I haven't thought of - It lasts for years. So there is some business advantage to revising a drawing without changing the number. There will be guidelines (form, fit, fuction criteria) and method to revise a drawing without a number change. It may take a chapter in the company's Engineering manual to cover the procedure. The change will be referenced on the drawing and (unless the company is skipping this detail - unlikely at GM) documented with an Enginering job with the change and the reason. It's something that somebody unfamilar with the the process may question but it's not going to hide anything. It's not a new thing either - I've been going through a 1956 GM Chevrolet assembly manual for a local project - looking at it quickly today, about 40% of the pages have at least one change thorugh the production year.,