THarrison351

I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it might have Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels. I can't seem to find any other pictures on the net other than this one with her posing with it. The paint looks like it has pearl in it too.

Last video: Wow, that was totally different. No silly smoke show and useless fireballs. Just pure shaft horsepower. Awesome!

I've used all three and heat with good and bad results. Mostly good on aftermarket decals. Older OE decals usually never showed any change with any product. I only found out about heat in the last ten years. I haven't built any kits lately to use OE decals so I don't know if they have changed the way they're being made and I've not had a need to try heat,

1933 Pierce-Arrow Silver Arrow (Operating Trunk) 10/1987 according to that web site. I have the non operating trunk version and it's pretty crude. Especially when you consider where DB ends up with their final offerings.

Yeah, I don't think it was until 1969 that Ford dropped the bucket seat/center console as standard equipment on the XL. I think you could delete it for a bench seat. Here is a link to the '67 brochure. http://www.oldirononline.com/brochures/Ford/1967/FullSize/index.htm

I put what was left of my unbuilt NASCAR kits on eBay for $1 plus shipping and still have about a dozen.

Not knowing the pains you suffered, it still looks good to me. I had troubles in the past with black paint as well. Gloss black Tamiya, decanted and airbrushed, or sprayed out of a warmed can has not disappointing yet. I've given up on all other gloss black paints for consistency. I've only used Plasti-cote as a primer so far, grey and white both worked.

When I served in SAC on KC-135s we had cans of spray bomb paint that was called Strato-blue. It matched the vehicles pretty well. They were still painting some of the flightline GSA vehicles the same color blue when I retired in 2008. I can't speak for what they have out there now. Don't go near it anymore.

This is a Ford Super Duty 800-900 from as best I can research 61-69. It's very expensive and very well done.

Well, that's just uhh...Well, that's just something. Excellent job!

Have three unbuilt, but I ruined an original GTO when I was a kid. I don't know what happened to it 40 something years ago. I did get to see David race the 16 and back to the 21 Chattanooga Chew several times when I went to Darlington in the eighties. He will be missed.

I'm not sure Liberty Classics cast a 1/6 scale 428. They had the Ford 427 SOHC, Dragster (427 SOHC), Ford 427 (FE), and Shelby Cobra 427 FE. I have all but the Cobra, all versions of the 426 Hemi, and the later Hemi and Ford flathead from Hawk. Kind of lost my mind collecting and building them.

WOW! The French Cars!

I'm not quite sure I understand the red lights on the front spoiler, but I like the rest of it!

Umm....no..

I bought this kit when I was a young teen, almost 40 years ago. It's battered and bruised, but still all there. It was old when I bought it in the late seventies. I don't ever plan to build it or sell it.

Isn't that picture the original version of the Twin Mill. I think it has different wheels and is now blue or maybe green.

Looks great to me!

I think your both correct.

Looks good Snake. I redid this one 5-7? years ago. Before I moved. Now it's packed away. Only picture I have. Painted interior white, detailed the rest.

Wow, they both look good! I now see what you mean't in the other post about the wheels on the Welly. They look like 13' rims with truck tires. The rest looks pretty good. Nice work!

No that's a repop of the old IMC Volkswagon kit could be built stock or as an altered

Randy, The taillights are a major improvement, and the wheels look less toy-like with the centers grey. Turned out much better than as released. Looks great!

Nice! that is some collection you have!

The sniping programs have been around for as long as I can remember and I've been an eBay bidder since 2002. I've never once used one. I do snipe, but like Tom said around 6 seconds is a good time for the programs, I do it manually and wait until about 5-6 seconds and bid the max I want to pay. I get beat often, but they end up paying more because of me. The crazy thing to watch is when there is a lot of people sniping and the original bidder has put in a really high max and to see the price change ridiculously in the last few seconds. Silly bidding.