MeatMan

After digging deeper, I think these go by tractor tire and skip loader specs, which are tire width, then rim diameter. Making it 23.5" wide with a 25" rim.

Yes, I saw that, not quite sure what that means. But that tire is close to 4 feet tall, way more than 23.5". In my updated reply I figured that the 23.5 has to be the sidewall height, but I can't say for sure.

Thanks Les, I saw that article and its still confusing. The pic below shows the tire that I'm looking to size. If what it shows, and what I've read previously is true, then the diameter of the there should be 23.5", and the width should be 25. However looking at the pic its clear to see that the width is not greater than the height. Thus my confusion. After thinking about the size, I realize that the 23.5 has to be the height of the sidewall, because these tires are massive, but the article doesn't say that.

This is for an off road loader. I keep seeing that the first number should be the tire height and second the rim size, but that can't be true. I'm researching a Pettibone Cary-lift. Thanks.

Beautiful work!

Beautiful build man!

That might make a nice community build subject!

Glad you took the time to take care of yourself. I wish you well.

I almost exclusively use primer because the few times I've tried to paint w/o it, I don't like the result 90% of the time.

I bought one but haven't used it in a practical sense. Did a couple of test prints but I need to create a buck for the project. The one I had couldn't take the heat.

Welcome to the forum. I'm just seeing this. The question would have been better asked in the Model Q&A. What did you wind up doing? Typically Laquer doesn't take that long to cure. I've cleared MCW laquer after a couple of days.

Well done!

Did you check this podcast out? If not start at about the 44:30 mark unless you want to hear the whole story. That's where they begin to talk about the engine this racer used and basically what was allowed.

In the pic below, the light bar looks equal to the width of the roof. I'd go with that. To get the depth, just take the ratio of the width vs the length in the pic and use that to calculate the depth you'll need. I measure the width on my screen as 89mm, and the depth as 19mm. I divided the width by the depth and got .21 as a length to depth ratio. I measured 57.4 as the width of the roof on my Little Red Truck model. I multiplied that by .21 and got ~12mm. I'd go 57.5mm for the width, and 12mm for the length (side). Also, if you've got FB this might interest you. Theres a guy in there with a scale model of one with working lights he made. https://www.facebook.com/groups/186202599951122/?checkpoint_src=any

Well done!

I think the possibility of someone doing this is slim, however if someone were to do it they would at least need some clear pics of exactly what you need. Along with measurements.

Sweet! I've got a CC kit that I've been mocking up to do something like that with, but now you've taken it to another level!

Awesome!

Mostly true, tho I'm sure I my setup was more like $600 - $700 with my Elegoo Mars 12k, as I didn't go with the clean & wash station. I do very few body parts and almost exclusively design & print smaller parts. I get to make stuff that will never be available commercially, but I really like or remember from when I was a hot rodder. And yes, the mess can be a pain.

Nice project! Did you use 2 part bondo? I've seen that with the putty but never the 2 part.

I can only imagine how many times they've had to decline selling that.

Yes, perhaps a kind of transkit.

Yeah, that's rad! Based on that I think a 3D print is your only option. Maybe someone will print this for you. I printed the second pic for a future gasser build from the same seller.

To me it looks like good old fabrication with styrene would be the best/cheapest option. I say that because you're looking at a lot of flat surfaces rear of the cab. So you have 75% of the parts in the kit. I'd trim the top of the bed and build from there.