Jon Haigwood

Sounds like the opening drag engine noise from a 60's Drag/Surf song. I just can't figure out which one LOL

I did a Google image search and this is the only one I found without a hood

Thanks for the info. I will be looking to get a IMC/Testors kit.

Came in all sizes

I have a 48 Ford Sedan Delivery resin body that was from an unknown Resin Caster. I am not sure of what donor kit I need. I do have a Revell/Mono 48 Ford Woody Kit on hand. Anybody know for sure if this kit will work or do I need another? Thanks Jon

I now use PlastiKote acrylic lacquer clear with no problems and have used other clears as well

Thanks for the replies. I will pin it.

Very nice builds, I was unaware that there was a Z28 in 67. Everybody always talks about the SS, RS and SS/RS. Your post made me smarter today

I have lots of AutoAir (Createx) paint left over from years ago when I was attempting to paint motorcycle tanks. I use them a lot. My only problem with them that if you try to clear over them with Future the surface is rough and it takes a lot of coats to get a smooth finish.

What would be the best way to mount a Superbird wing, attache it before paint or after paint. Thought about maybe trying to put a small pin in the wing upright and putting a alignment hole in the fender. I did notice that on the 1:1 car the wing looks to be a separate part rather than blended into the fender. I would like the "separate" look. Thanks Jon

Not being an expert like some folks here, but from what I have seen Revell will be my first choice when looking for a kit

How did this kit compare to AMT's "The Deuce" other than the chopped top ?

Yeah they can get wild

I read something years ago about using BMF to make a mold of emblems, door handles and the like and then filling them with something to make a duplicate . May be sprue glue or something similar. I will try and hunt that down. May in one of my old Model Mags

I had a Isetta but it didn't look like that. Of course it was a 600 and that one is a 300

The body now is molded in the purple . I am doing some modifications on the front and will be putting on a primer then I will most likely be painting it a similar purple (Plum Crazy). I depending on the paint I may clear over that. I am trying not to apply so much paint that I obscure the details.

On one of my current builds I am going to paint a Testers Challenger that came pre-finished. If I can I would like to preserve the fender emblems and maybe the gas cap so they will still look the same after I paint the body. I thought maybe if I coated them with Windex or something else I could remove the coating after the painting and then clear coat. I am sure this has been done at one point by at east one of you knowledgeable Chaps. Any tips would be greatly appreciated Thanks Jon

I couldn't agree any more with that

The big problem with the disc camera was hat the negative was so small the pictures had terrible resolution and the pictures were grainy.

My Granddaughter is planning on taking photography next year and they start out with 35mm. I had to dig out my old Pentax K1000 for her. I did find a couple of exposed discs in a drawer awhile back. I found that I would have to send them overseas to get them developed at about $50 a disc. Not going to happen.

All I know is that every day is Saturday

Good to know Since I'm 65 I must be above average

whats the best primer for their lacquer paint ?

What I meant by "satin" was a semi gloss overcoat not "satin" the material. If you were to overcoat it would want a high gloss, gloss or semi gloss. Apparently you are saying that an overcoat of any kind would change the textures appearance. My fault for the confusion between the two "satin's"

Clear with satin finish or gloss?