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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. Easy Off works in the same way, with the same ingredients as Super Clean. I used Easy Off for many years before discovering Super Clean. Easy Off will work for most applications, but it's has just as many limitations and problems as Super Clean and a few that Super Clean does not. Steve
  2. It will lose it's effectiveness after many uses, but with yours only being used a couple of times since august, it should still be fine. I have heard that there have been issues with stripping certain kit chrome, namely Trumpeter, so it might be something with the chrome itself. Try dropping in some chrome parts from another kit that you plan on stripping and see what happens. You should have your answer in very short order. If the chrome has not disappeared by the end of the day, your Super Clean is defunct. Steve
  3. They always seem to look better in natural light. But, baby it's cold outside!! Steve
  4. I agree. I was surprised to see how much better the wire wheels from the Moebius '55/'56 Chrysler kits looked with some nice tires wrapped around them. The tires from the kits make the wheels look entirely to small. They look great with the AMT Firestone Deluxe tires. Steve
  5. I was just going to post this. This can all be solved the same way that it has for decades........buy a Mopar! Just kidding, but the Ram trucks do illustrate that regardless of regulations, a vehicle doesn't have to be ugly. These hideous enormous front ends on the trucks is just the latest styling trend. Hopefully it will die quickly! Steve
  6. Thank you everyone! The stainless roof panels were very simple. I merely lightly sanded a section of BMF while still on the backing paper and then applied it as you would any other foil. Steve
  7. I have radiant heat in my basement floor, so it works better for me in the winter than in summer! Steve
  8. If you're talking about the Johan '59, I love it too. Of all of the finished kits that I have, it still gets the most attention. Steve
  9. I bought a can of Testors One Coat "Fiery Orange" some time ago, and it had the same metallic problems as most other Testors metallics. I guess it might just be in the eye of the beholder, but metal flakes in 1/25th scale should be just barely perceptible. Even some of the MCW metallics seem a bit too large & they are generally very good. My expectation with metallic paint for 1/25th scale is that you should have to examine the model very closely to see the flakes. Case in point, this '58 Impala is painted in MCW "Cay Coral Metallic" but I defy you to pick out any flakes, even up close, in person. It just has a nice metallic sheen without obvious flakes. Perfect in my opinion. Steve
  10. This has been one of those cars that has been high on my list of ones to build, even back before I thought that I would ever be able to find one to build. I've always considered the '60 Imperial to be the best looking Imperial ever built. Of course, this is just my opinion. Even though it is a behemoth of an automobile, everything just seems to flow well. It has all of my favorite attributes from a 50s car, from the heavily browed quad headlights and sweeping side moldings, to the enormous tail fins. I originally started this build from basically a pristine AMT kit a couple of years ago, but lost interest shortly after paint issues arose. Recently, I decided a second shot at it was in order, mostly because I was in a bit of a slump and needed an easier curbside build to get the juices flowing again. This was a pretty basic build with just a few small extras like scribing some extra panel lines and adding a few details such as a set of wire wheels from the Moebius '56 Chrysler 300 kit along with AMT Firestone Deluxe whitewalls. I also scratch built the interior rear view mirror, the radio antenna and modified an outside mirror from the kit. I also drilled out and replaced the head lights. The rest is all right out of the 1960 box. It was painted with an ancient can of Duplicolor "cream" touch up paint that I've had laying around since I was just a young man! The color closely resembles correct 1960 Chrysler "Sunburst". Anyway, I'm glad to have it done and I'm ready to move on to the next project. I'm thinking 1967 Ford Galaxie! As a side note, this car is so big that the plastic display cases that I generally display the majority of my builds in is too short! I will need to find a longer case! All comments or criticisms are welcome guys. Thank you! Steve
  11. Yes, you are. Simple Green is also an inferior product to Super Clean. But if it's working for you, there's no reason to change. But I think you will find that it does not work well, if at all, for some tasks. Steve
  12. I still have a gallon jug of it. I keep it around in case I need to remove something really easy.........like dust! Steve
  13. There it goes guys! On it's way to "Under Glass"! Steve
  14. I initially thought that your post might have been a misstatement, but you never know. Everybody has their own experiences. But I agree. I have tried both, & Super Clean is much more efficient in my opinion. Steve
  15. Really? My experience has been just the opposite. This would be the first time that I have ever heard that Purple Power works better than Super Clean. But, to each his own. Steve
  16. Very nicely done Steve. I see these Camino phantoms occasionally and they rarely look right. I think stretching the rear end is the key. Most look short and strange in the back end. Nice work! Steve
  17. I'm finally getting very close to finishing this one. Mostly just a few details left before assembly. Shouldn't really have any problems wrapping it up in the next few days. Not a lot new to show, but I have been working on some small details. I put together this mirror by removing the mirror from the base of one of those ugly square mirrors that came with these AMT annuals, and replacing it with a round mirror that I cast from epoxy, then covered the whole thing in Molotow chrome. And I think I have the antennas down pretty good now. I don't think I spent much longer than five minutes making this one. Steve
  18. According to the PC crowd, we are supposed to forget large swaths of our American history because certain symbols of it might be "offensive" to some. It hasn't always been pretty, as with any country, but it is our history. It's funny how you will see some of these same pin headed "activists" walking around with Che Guevera, Fidel Castro & Mao Zedong t-shirts. I guess it's perfectly acceptable to support Marxist dictators & mass murderers, but God forbid that a Robert E Lee statue should exist. Their goal seems to be to completely revise American history. Anybody ever heard of 1984? It doesn't seem all that far fetched to me anymore. Sorry to get on the soap box, but this stuff drives me nuts!! Steve
  19. About the only Testors paint that I buy anymore is bottled enamels & primer. I only use the primer for a first coat because it covers better than Duplicolor & helps get a base established to guard against any crazing that could occur with the Duplicolor. Testors enamels take far too long to cure, a good majority of their metallic lacquers and enamels have metallic particles that are wildly out of scale, and I've had too many issues with their clear lacquers to continue using them on bodies. I now rely almost exclusively on Duplicolor primers and clears and MCW paints applied with an air brush. If Testors, (or Rust-oleum) really wants to compete with Tamiya or a myriad of other after market paint suppliers, with picky modelers like me, they have a great deal of improving to do. Steve
  20. I agree. The product itself is not going to hurt anything. It is the stripped material that you need to be concerned about. in general, Super Clean used to remove lacquer will not dissolve the paint itself. It will get in between the plastic and the paint causing it to lift off in sheets. This material is pretty easily strained out. There will always be some primer or enamel particles left in the Super Clean, but I would not be particularly worried about disposing of it. I personally dump mine back into the empty jug and dispose of it at a waste disposal site, but I will not hesitate to dump it in an inconspicuous area behind my garage if need be. A gallon jug of Super Clean will easily last me a year or more, so disposal is normally not forefront in my mind. Now brake fluid is another matter. Steve
  21. I'm what you might consider "semi retired" working about 22 hours a week, and I'm finding less time than ever to build! Of course, that could have something to do with just buying a house that needs a complete make over. Steve
  22. My first advice would be to dump the Purple Power and get some Super Clean. I've used both, and the Purple Power is no match for Super Clean. Flat black is a tough one. One of the very few paints that I have had real difficulties removing. I have yet to find a good solution. Steve
  23. Brussels sprouts have always been one of my favorites. I think that many times, whether or not you like something can have a lot to do with how you were raised. Coming from a German/Russian family from the Dakotas, I was brought up on things like Brussels sprouts, cabbage, rutabagas, turnips & kohlrabies. To this day one of my favorite meals is something that a good majority of people turn their nose up at. Liver and onions!! Can't get enough! We ate a lot of chicken livers when I was a kid too. Steve
  24. Very nice! And some people think factory stock is boring. Steve
  25. This is certainly true, mostly on tulip panels. But the gaps between cowls & rocker panels and the front fender are generally not filled with with a sealer because the fender is mounted as a separate part from the rest of the body after paint. Steve
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