Mark

Those early Jo-Han annuals were always tough to find. Heck, even the later ones were tough too. Being a WAY smaller producer, and seemingly being more difficult to deal with, meant that the bigger department stores that moved the biggest numbers of kits in those days didn't bother to stock Jo-Han.

AMX-1 was originally a fuel altered. Funny cars made more money, so the AMX body was added. The MPC Bantam Blast kit chassis is the closest thing out there for that car. The original two-seat AMX annual kits were Jo-Han, but ALL of them were sold by AMT, in AMT boxes. None of them with the funny car chassis were ever sold in a Jo-Han box. AMT sold the '68 in one box, '69 and '70 in two boxes (with different stock numbers) for each year.

AMT Ford Courier. 2WD stock version. Nissan (Datsun), Mitsubishi (Dodge), and Isuzu (Chevy LUV) all had six-lug wheels on their 2WD pickups. Toyota was the only one to have five-lug.

I never knew about that one until I saw pics of them (there were two, six and V8) in an AMC book. And I'm into AMC, having had one many years ago (wouldn't mind another, if the right one came along). I believe that is the V8 one, the only one of the two to still exist. It, like the other one, started out with the '70-'72 front sheet metal. AMC supposedly dropped the pickup because the Hornet (particularly the wagon) was selling really well at the time. It's a shame AMC dumped money into the Pacer, and the Matador coupe in the mid-Seventies. Both of those were dead ends. That money would have been better spent keeping the Hornet and Gremlin up to date. Those were great cars; a bit dated and heavier than they needed to be. The Gremlin in particular was overweight, but shared chassis parts, brakes, and power train with the Hornet. I put over 200,000 miles on a Spirit (hatchback derivative of the Gremlin) and would buy another if the right one turned up. They sold well but they were great drivers, everyone (me included) used them until they were used up. Having a trimmer, slightly more up-to-date Hornet/Concord and Gremlin/Spirit in the mid-Eighties might have put AMC in a better position for a merger than the lousy Renault deal they ended up with.

The AMT '66 Galaxie kit has a set, with the carburetor ends like that. You'll probably have to reshape the tubes for the Mustang though.

Too, the restoration of the Falcon is a composite of two years' features. It's the 1967 version of the car, with the 1966 paint scheme. The '66 version had a 427 wedge engine, and the front axle was further forward than it is now.

The guy who restored the car did that truck also, from what I have seen it is a ballpark replica of the one that originally towed the Falcon.

Cement the halves together with liquid cement (not tube glue or CA adhesive). Sand the seams, paint over with liquid cement, sand again. Do that a couple of times. Or, cement the halves together with CA, rout out the seam, then apply two-part epoxy putty or two-part spot putty. When the part is sanded and ready for primer, you want to see a thin "stripe" of putty where the seam was.

Those look like mold parting lines. Literally the points where the multiple sections of tooling that produce the one-piece body come together. After checking photos of 1:1 cars in those same areas, sand away those that shouldn't be there. Doesn't apply to this particular car, but checking is important. Certain British sports cars have panels that are swaged together (crimped at the area where they meet). Every so often I see a built model with those areas molded smooth, there should be an overlap in that area.

Those parts were only in the annual hardtop kit (which, BTW, did not include a stock hardtop--only a custom fastback). The annual kits had an opening trunk lid too. The reissue '62s differ greatly from the annuals.

Not sure about the V6, but Camaros used the straight six into the late Seventies. Two of my cousins had Camaros they both bought new, I believe they were '78 or '79. Both had the straight six and three-speed manual transmission.

Besides the sale price, back taxes probably come into play. Even maximum use of the facility probably won't generate enough dough to cover taxes, insurance, and maintenance on it, especially with the new (higher) taxes.

I don't think the Camaro ever had a base Camaro hood. It's always been issued as a Z/28 that I can recall. The "grid" parts trees for the Blazer kit will probably minimize ejector pin marks on those small parts...smart move on Revell's part.

Monogram probably used patterns from earlier kits to create engines for the Tom Daniel show rods. They weren't repetitive with details like that. The Tijuana Taxi has a Pontiac mill similar to that in the original issue '34 Ford, the Dragon Wagon and Paddy Wagon have Ford FE engines that resemble the '58 Thunderbird mill. Daniel seemed to be accommodating Monogram's tool designers by selecting engines that were based on previous kit designs.

I'd do the red first, then the chrome.

I'm guessing that the SBC is an AMT Chevy Monza unit. The timing cover with the oil filler looks like it is for the DeSoto mill in the AMT '53 Ford pickup. The first engine is a Cadillac, from the AMT '49 Ford coupe. AMT's Merc has a Chrysler B series engine as optional.

Pie Wagon should appeal to a wider group of buyers, though. I was in a Joann store the other day; they had several Atlantis kits but nothing with particularly wide appeal (big Monogram midget racer, Jungle Jim Camaro, and Mack Bulldog truck). The TD stuff should jump off of the shelves at those stores.

Dean Jeffries built the Landmaster.

The ones not shown in the instructions are probably for the NASCAR version kit.

I have found the super glue to often be harder than the surrounding plastic. Some putties are softer. You want the filler to be approximately the same hardness as the plastic, so that it is easier to sand it smooth with the area around the fill. That's why some builders use "sprue filler" (pieces of sprue dissolved in a solvent or cement). But that shrinks too, because the solvent evaporates over time. I used to use that stuff a lot, but have since found the two-part epoxy to be pretty close to styrene in terms of hardness and sandability. That's why I now use it for jobs like seams and splices.

That '33 Willys is an early production one, it having plastic tires and slicks.

Single stage, lacquer-based spot putty is at its essence extremely unthinned lacquer primer. It's going to shrink over time, and it will "reactivate" at its surface when lacquer primer is applied over it. It's okay for minor flaws, but for filling routed-out panel lines and everything beyond minimal depth, two-part epoxy is the way to go, period.

The '69 Galaxie kit (which came out earlier this year) has Goodyear tires. Round 2 isn't selling Goodyear tire packs anymore, but some of the kits do still have them.

Milliput will work just fine. Get the "fine" (white), not the "medium" (green). Rout out the panel lines before applying the putty.

eBay is only an indicator that two or three fanatics will beat each others' brains out fighting over an offbeat kit. And one of those bidders is probably a shill trying to max one of the other two out. Back when eBay was a bigger thing, you'd see something out of the ordinary pop up, a couple of guys would bid the thing way up, then the following week three or four more of the same item would appear. With the top knucklehead now having one, and with one less bidder to fight over the newly listed ones, prices came back down to earth.