Snake45

I might get one of these and see if I can make something street-legal(-ish) out of it. Hmmmmmm.....

The box art is a hardtop. The kit is a fastback. But let's dream and say they find the tooling to reissue the HT/convertible body!

It's either a Torino or a Cobra, but it's not a Torino Cobra. Both are variants of the Fairlane. I never had an original, so don't know what the original kit was, but the reissues from the '90s up have all been Cobras, with accurate badging so declaring. The Cobra was Ford's answer to the Road Runner, a big engine in a no-frills midsize, like Dodge's Super Bee and Chevy's SS396 built on the 300 2-door sedan.

Finished the bodywork and paint touchup of an AMT annual '66 Mustang fastback I'm restoring. Should be able to reassemble and finish it up tomorrow.

Vacformable clear plastic is all around you, once you learn to see it. You probably threw some away within the last couple days. Just cut anything suitable to 3 x 3.5" and you're good to go.

Very cool! No M2s at my Wally's today. One of the three M2 Mustangs I have is a dark green '66 GT350, with Paxton supercharger. I like it a lot.

VERY cool piece of history! Good luck with your resto!

To this day, I'm baffled as to why AMT would do the '65 Chevelle Wagon and El Camino as full 3-in-1 kits, but the Malibu hardtop was only offered as a (curbside) Craftsman. No full Chevy II kit, either, and yet both of them became AMT's first generation AWB funny cars.

Yeah, I heard some people got the new SA, which means I'll prolly see mine near the end of next week.

It is so very sad.

My nomination: Fine Young Criminals.

They sure weren't in the AMT '66 Corvette roadster I built in 1966, nor in any of the several I've bought since then. I'll have to doublecheck the unbuilt '66 Coupe kit in my collection.

My June issue of HOT ROD finally arrived. It's almost a month late.

They weren't in the '69 I built in 1969, and they're not in the mint unbuilt '66 in my collection.

Very interesting, thanks all!

Oh my, if my Walmart has those tomorrow, I will HAVE to have one! The color looks like a fair representation of Fathom Green. I already have two other M2 '69 Camaros, a Hugger Orange with black stripes and a black Rally Sport. I like them both. I also have a CMW diecast 1/25 '69 Camaro in Fathom Green, which I also like a lot. I also have a Revell '69 Camaro body painted Fathom Green, which I need to build into a completed model someday. The plan is to do it as a COPO 9561 L72 427.

I'm currently working on restoring a pair of 1966 AMT annuals, which I have no reason to believe were not built in 1966 or thereabouts. They both came with "Firestone Deluxe Champion" pie-crust slicks, but different sizes. The thinner ones are marked 7.60x15, the fatter ones say 9.00x15. I don't think I've ever seen these slicks before, certainly not in any 1966 AMT annual I built back in the day. Could they have come from a Revell kit? Revell parts pack? Did AMT have a tire parts pack? (I know they had a wheels parts pack, don't think I've ever seen or heard of tires, though.) Anyone know?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Are you building this as a drag car?

No problem, Steve. It's great to see this technique discussed in a completely scientific and academic way. I've only used the trick a few times and don't have nearly your experience (or skill), I'm just stating what has worked for me. On my '68 Vette, which I've shown here several times, I shot one coat of black primer, three coats of Testor One Coat Lacquer, and two or three coats of Testor Wet Look Clear, which is IMHO a bit thick. I color-sanded the latter with #1500 (IIRC) wet, and stopped sanding when I got down to the black primer on the scripts. From there, the polish (Wright's Silver Cream) took off the primer as it polished the surrounding paint, leaving the lettering nice and shiny. I wasn't worried about polishing through the foil, but I wasn't using Bare Metal, I used thin generic kitchen foil (with Miro Foil Adhesive). The kitchen foil isn't as thick as name-brand stuff like Reynolds Wrap, but it is thicker than BMF, and I actually like it for this reason. I can't see any "primer line" under an Opti-Visor and I'd challenge anyone to see one with with naked eye or normal corrective eyeglasses. I used the same regimen on a '66 Chevelle, with similar results. But as I said, I haven't used it nearly as much as you have, though I'm definitely planning to do it on a '65 Chevelle I have coming up. Your way works well for you. So far my way has worked well for me. There are probably other entirely workable variations, too. There are many paths to the top of the mountain! Model on!

Pretty cool, but that's a '67.

Very, VERY cool! I did one very similar in 1969. Do you have any other old survivor builds you've restored? I LOVE these things!

I dug up this old thread to enjoy it again, as I'm thinking of getting into a vintage Altered T project. For anyone who hasn't seen this thread before, go get a cup of coffee, sit back, relax, and prepare to learn stuff. Enjoy the ride!

No one on here loves the Silver Sharpie more than me, and I dig the Molotow too, but they just won't work for very fine nameplates. (GREAT for other stuff, though.) I use Steve's foil-under-paint technique, with one modification: I apply the foil to the bare plastic, before the first primer is applied. I think my way has three slight advantages: It preserves maximum detail. The foil sticks to clean bare plastic better than it does to flat primer paint. And the primer is another coat of paint that helps "bury" the edges and make them invisible. But Steve's way works very well for him, and mine does for me. Diff'rent strokes, and all that. The foiled script gets uncovered during my normal color-sanding and polish-out routine. So far I've never had to resort to using a chemical to expose it. I'll also do this with SOME larger emblems, and then mask them with a drop of Elmer's Glue on a toothpick. This is a handy technique when the emblem doesn't stand very tall on the surface. If I think the emblem will stand up to my paint routine, I'll just do it with my beloved Silver Sharpie at the end.