Snake45

Nothing but the word Mustang on the box. Two completely different kits from two different makers.

I always thought it was somewhere in the '64-'66 area. Late last year I finally finished up one of these (an original IMC) that I started in the late '60s. Every time I got it out, I got reminded of why I'd never finished it. I have no desire to build another one. If I ever want to do another Beetle in 1/25, I'll track down a Revell kit--it couldn't be much worse. (I have a Revell in the stash but it's a '70s issue with flared fenders, which is cool too. That one might rise to the top of my To-Do list this year.)

Very nice, well done!

Looks great! As others have already said, it fits right into the late '60s-early '70s Riviera/Eldorado/Toronado vibe. Also has Cordoba and Monte Carlo elements, too. The design was definitely ahead of its 1966 time. You did a nice job with it. Well done and model on!

Bought this original issue AMT '65 Falcon AWB last year at the local toy show in a big box of other stuff that included a glue bomb original AMT '67 Corvette in its original box, an original AMT '66 Vette roadster box with MANY parts (though no body, chassis, or interior) and some other stuff for a very reasonable price. This one came with its first-issue box and instructions, but no decals, and it's missing the hood. Other than those, everything else seems to be here, and REALLY stuck together. Notice that the interior tub has been glued about 1/8" too high on the chassis. Worked about an hour of Snake-Fu prying and persuading on the thing the other day but had zero luck wrestling it to the ground, even after Dremeling off a HUGE bead of tube glue over the right rear wheel. A jeweler's saw would do the deed if I owned a jeweler's saw factory as I'm sure I'd break at least 20 of those expensive little blades gittin' er done. Today I attacked it with a coping saw and after about 40 minutes of tedious effort, I"m about halfway around. Might finish it tomorrow. Have started the paint strip (after the pic was taken), so far after two applications of Easy Off, ALL the red is off and the yellow and blue are about 20% off. It WILL all come off the next time The Lovely Mrs. Snake is out of the house for a couple hours. Oh, forgot to mention, had to Dremel out the glass with a grinder, only the second time I've ever had to do this. (Come to think of it, the first time was on the '67 Corvette that came in the same toy show deal. Hmmmm.) Once I get that tub divorced from the chassis, rebuilding should proceed without too much further drama. Haven't decided on a color. Anyone have spare Daddy Warbucks or Georgia Shaker decals? That would decide for me. I can use a hood, too, if someone has one just laying around. Here's an EMPI Imp glue bomb I bought at a club meeting/swap meet in the early '90s. I forget whether I paid $1 or $2 or $10 for it, but at the time I thought it was a good deal because it hadn't been reissued and I hadn't seen one in years. Today was the first time I took it out of its baggie and inventoried what I have. It looks 98% or so complete--all I can find missing is a windshield and frame but that's not a big problem to scratch up. Not sure if I can work with the glue-bombed taillights but again, not a I huge problem, I can come up with something or other. Looks like the worst part of the job will be gluing the fiddly chassis bits back together, but I resurrected my own glue bomb AMT dune buggy chassis a few years ago, which was in similar bad shape if not worse, so it should be do-able. Having been impressed at an early age by the EMPI IMP in bright metalflake blue on the cover of HOT ROD magazine, the plan has always been to paint this thing "bass boat flake" blue (I have a giant can of a very sparkly Krylon that should be perfect), but I noticed that it's molded in a metallic or pearly red that might be interesting. We'll see what it looks like after the yellow paint has been stripped. While I'm repairing the chassis on this one, I might go ahead and knock together the chassis of an AMT TeeVee dune buggy and squirt both of them in semigloss black at the same time. We'll see what happens....

Very, VERY nice, very tasty! Well done and model on!

I got my driver's license in a '70 Impala that exact color! Except it was a 4-door, had a dark green vinyl top, and of course didn't have rally wheels. Thanks for the memories, very well done, and model on!

Congrats on scoring your Holy Grail movie! Mine was the original Assault on Precinct 13, and I was looking for it long before its revival, cult fandom and remake. An online friend finally located me one in some obscure bargain bin around 2000.

What are you thinking, maybe a post-WWII Bendix/Thompson racer? That could be cool. I had an idea: What about one in captured US markings, Wright Field evaluation markings? Bare metal, late US stars and bars, maybe the red-white-blue rudder. That could look cool, too.

Then photos of the real first-generation Chevy II AWB funny cars must drive you crazy! Moving on, I like what you're doing with the front axle here. Mounting the axle underneath the springs is almost guaranteed to give a too-nosehigh stance, and yet that's how most kit manufacturers, model builders, and even too many current real-car builders do it. I have a feeling I'm going to be doing some scratchbuilding very similar to your work here in the near future. DO drive on and get this one done!

Sounds like the perfect use for a Revell '65 Chevelle kit. Cut off top, remove windshield frame, throw the rest of the ugly roof away!

Probably. All the original Otaki airplane kits were eventually marketed under the ARII label. (Some of them would also appear in Airfix and AMT boxes.)

Ikko Kits? Ick-O Kits? "It's like RAY-EE-AIN...on your wedding day..."

Very sharp build!

Very clean build. Well done and model on!

Looks great! Just don't park it next to a giant Quail sign.

Oh yeah, I wanna go into battle standing on top of a 40-hp unshielded lawn mower/wood chipper. Well, that's one way to stop worrying about getting shot in a war.

I think if you got TWO of them, and perched them atop the carbs on a cross-ram manifold on an open-hood street rod, they'd look just about right. I could swear I've seen pics of such a setup at least once or twice.

'69 Camaro. And at some point in its life, the knob on the fan control broke off. So when cold weather approached, I had to get in there with a tool of some sort and push it UP for the winter, and in spring I'd reverse the process and push it DOWN again for the summer.

I've been looking for something better/different/more interesting to do with the Bantam body, and I ran across this page: https://www.tbucketplans.com/american-austin-bantam-coupe/ Several interesting ideas here! I've got a glue bomb Revell Buttera T-tub with what looks like a complete, savable chassis...it might be getting a new body in the future....

Bill, I I were you, I'd drive on with the wheels and interior stuff, let the air cleaner decal go for the time being, and GITTER DONE. That hood's not warped THAT bad and we'd gladly accept it as DONE in the Completion Build and you have until the end of March to get that done. And then you can go back and paint the new hood and put it on later. C'mon, join the GITTER DONE FUN, you'll love it! What's that paint? Are you going to have any trouble matching it? BTW, I have a nice resin copy of this kit. And I have a resin copy of the kit's "power bulge" hood, too (which was years ahead of its time). I'm planning to build it as a "switcher." I'll have two complete chassis--one completely stock, the other one with mags, slicks, slightly jacked-up rear, and a big engine. Should be a head turner when done! Still trying to decide on a good factory color for it.

If you end up getting stuck with it, you MIGHT be able to unwarp it with heat.

Hey, no problem, no big deal. I do see what you mean, though--painting the spokes flat aluminum would add a little visual interest and maybe make it look a little more "finished."

Very nice, clean build! (I think you might have the roll bar in backwards, though.) Well done and model on!

Depending on what kind of build you have in mind, you could just roll with it. I once had a car that had a windshield cracked very much like that from putting the defroster on full-blast on a VERY cold day. (Probably the only bad advice my Dad ever gave me: "The car will heat up faster if you leave the heater and defroster OFF until you've driven a few miles." Don't DO that, kids, especially if the outside temp is in the teens or lower.)