Snake45

Styrenestan time would work better for you. But for all I know, you're vacationing in California, which would work even better.

I'll just say that every week I see models "under glass" built from kits with MUCH more egregious flaws and shape problems than what is or isn't in this particular Nova. And we've all been happily building them for years--decades. (Yes, I've built some. I've corrected some. And some have just gone back in the box.)

Can't believe I didn't remember this one earlier.

As promised, here's the '69 Galaxie. Not my best model ever, but it still goes in the DONE column. Any other late completions?

Excellent example of a box art build. VERY well done and model on!

BOO-YA! "It will keeeeel!"

THANK YOU! That goofy engine-mounting arrangement has always been one of my pet irks about this kit. That's a pretty simple and elegant solution! Drive on!

That's a MAGNIFICENT example of a glue bomb, and very rebuildable! (If you ever decide you don't want to do it, contact me about a trade of some sort. ) Drive on!

Absolutely magnificent! Thanks for sharing this with us. Well done and model on!

Good tip, might try that. I have some 1/16" "piano wire" from the hobby shop that was my former go-to solution, but you sure can't cut it with dykes. I used a cutoff wheel in a Dremel, but this is such a PITA process I started looking for a simpler solution.

Every so often I cruise the cheap paintbrushes in the crafts section at Walmart. Seems like they never have the same selection twice. Several times I've bought a set of 8 or 10 paintbrushes for $6 or $7 because they had two or three nice small, fine-tip ones in there. Today I scored! A set of four fine brushes, one of them VERY fine, for $4.27. I've paid $5, $6, $7 for just ONE brush this size, and that was several years ago. Will these brushes last as long as one of the "good" ones? I doubt it. Also, I don't care. I don't use them that often. I probably have a lifetime supply now.

Ever work on an old wire axle kit--either a resto or a legacy reissue--and discover that you don't have the original wire axles, or you can't find one long enough for what you need, or you just want to fill in the holes in the engine & pan and not have the axle running through it? I've got a cheap, easy fix. Common round wooden toothpicks are almost perfectly sized. Shave or sand just a little taper into the pointy end, and jam it in the wheel back. Cut the shaft off a little longer than you need for the chassis. Sand just enough taper into that end to get it started in the chassis axle hole, and then press it right on in there. The wood will compress and it'll be tight. Done! Just did this to finish up an old AMT '69 Galaxie and it definitely works! No glue needed. If you ever want to replace the wheels, or you find the right size axle, you can just pull everything back apart. Downside: The wheels won't rotate, so you can't push your model around the floor and make engine noises. Personally, I can live with this.

Just wrapped up the '69 Galaxie. GOTTER DONE! Don't have time to take and 'shop the pics today, will try to get them up tomorrow. And now a Big Announcement: Since we don't seem to have too many completions so far this round, I am Snake-ficially declaring tomorrow (Friday) September 31. Declare your build DONE by midnight tomorrow night, and post finished pics by midnight Sunday (October 3), and you'll be officially credited with completing this round. Do you smell what I'm cookin' here, fellas? Now GITTER DONE!

Had heard about Pineapple Express for years. It showed up on Netflix so I watched it. There's an hour and a half I'll never get back. It makes The Big Lebowski look like The Godfather.

Can't wait to hear your comments on the hosed shape of the windows on the left side.

For all of them? SCORE, my friend!

They'd need to tool up a whole new body, or at least a new roof die. The '64 and '65 2DS roofs are different.

True dat. As with every other kit with flaws ever made (which is most of them), you have three choices: 1. Build it and live with it. 2. Fix it yourself (or buy a "corrected" aftermarket part). 3. Throw it back in the box (or just leave it on the store shelf) and go build something else. And I've done all three.

Then your '64 roof was different from the roof on this '65. MCW makes a 2DS body for the Trumpeter '63. I have one and it's pretty nice, and was reasonably priced. That might work better for your purposes.

More great stuff, Tim, thanks so much! If I'm seeing things correctly, it looks like engine mounts rise up from the subframe. Looks like engine swaps should be easy, right? With the subframe setup the way it is, I'm not seeing any reason for the front-sump oil pan, as was necessary in the stock cars. That should facilitate engine swaps, too. And with the engine mounts on the frame, it looks like that dropped middle crossmember could be cut and moved, or maybe even omitted entirely. This would give some room for the front axle to travel. Might even make enough room for the axle to be mounted on top of the springs and lower the front end a few scale inches. But I'm waiting patiently and eagerly to see how the finished model "sits." Drive on, old friend!

Yes, they have several shades. I have a light one too.

Very clean build! Well done and model on!

Very clean build, nice work! Well done and model on!

I picked up a junker for a couple pieces I needed to finish mine off. If you need any parts, let me know.