peteski

Yes, with inexpensive miniature drill bits the quality is all over the place. The point i was making is that a steel drill will not get dull by drilling lots of hoes in plastic. If they are dull, it is right from the start.

I really don't think that drill longevity comes into picture (even with really crappy steel bits). Most of the time they are used on plastic or maybe some soft metals. Those are magnitudes softer than the drill bit. The problem with cheap bits is that they are not very well sharpened to begin with.

There is also this stuff (I have had a bottle for decades). I sometimes use it to make stickers from ordinary paper printouts. The Microscale MI-8 Micro Metal Foil Adhesive is probably very similar to BMF's stuff.

LOL Kurt, whatever floats your model. BTW, was the shipping cost included in that 8.33 Euro? That is a good deal.

I was going to let this go, but you keep harping on me to prove my skills or modeling experience. Just because I don't post any WIP threads it doesn't mean that I don't know what I'm talking about. Those models on my club's website are not built by some little elves I hired. Those models are proof that I'm not just blowing smoke, or just an armchair modeler. There are other modelers here who only post photos of their completed models. There are yet others who do not post in either WIP or Finished Models sections, with only an occasional model photo in some thread (or no model photos at all) who also are very knowledgeable and offer sage advice (with or without snark) which is worth paying attention to. I have plenty of knowledge and experience with chemicals we use in our hobby, and I firmly believe that understanding the chemistry behind the products we use results in better models. I also seem to have plenty of credibility on this forum, but you are fixating on my personality traits, not at my actual skills and knowledge. Just like you said: whatever dude. BTW, your last post contained some useful info. Thank you!

Seems that the entire world is "iconizinig", I guess they are understood by people speaking any language. At least this one did have an English text supplementing the pictures. Seems like we are reverting to the means of communication used in ancient Egypt. Pictures, no words.

What I was saying is that cash is not the only thing in gas station convenience stores they are after. Yes cigarettes are behind the counter, so the robbers will just demand the clerk to give them the smokes. Cigarettes go for crazy money nowadays (no, I don't smoke). As far as going cashless, I really hope we don't get to that - I love cash. Spending cash feels real. Paying with plastic feels like you can just buy the whole world and pay later. Plus cashless also means that the funds can be stolen other ways (there are plenty of credit card readers skimmers out there).

Yes, many TV series from that time period will have street scenes featuring contemporary cars. Series like Dragnet, Cannon, Barnaby Jones, Mannix, Streets of SF, Police Woman, etc. For '80s and '90s there are Seinfeld, Heart to Heart, Perry Mason movies, Greatest American Hero, etc.

Where do you live? Cash is not required for a robbers to strike. They steal cigarettes, and lottery tickets. Yes, I know the last one is stupid, but so are many robbers.

You should be able to find HVAC tape (aka. aluminum duct tape) in any hardware store. It is quite a bit thicker than BMF since it is meant to seal duct work. The adhesive is also much more aggressive. I have roll of it, and I do use in my modeling, but not specifically for chome trim).

Well Daniel, I was born with a snarky personality. It is what it is. I'm far from being the only member here whom you might call snarky. I also don't know how that relates to my modeling skills, or my ability to leave helpful posts on this forum. As you can see by my post count, I do plenty of sharing (of actual useful info, unlike this silly discussion we are having). If you don't like my posts, just ignore me. Next time you look at any BMF package, you can see another example of my modeling (which you seemed to be craving so much). I comprehended your original "go try for yourself" post just fine. Not problems there. I just found it unhelpful. The only problem we are having here are your constant attacks about my personality and modeling abilities. As for my comments about this product, if you look at other posts, I'm not only one who is questioning the product.

You are planning on shaving off the Revell copyright lettering from the floor pan, right?

Very good! You're welcome Pete. Here is a quick example of focus stacking (with Helicon Focus). I'm only showing a single photo in the stack (to show how little is in focus in each photo). The photo shown is the second or third in the stach focused on the closest area of the model. After combining all the photos in the stack I ended up with the entire model in focus. This is an N-scale (1:160) model of a locomotive (about 6" long) and the photo was taken in macro mode for the exaggerated perspective.

A corvette with a rusty body - not something you would see in 1:1 world.

A good source of focus stacking info is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking It explains the process, and shows the available apps. As I mentioned, I use Helicon Focus. It is very handy for those macro shots you mentioned earlier. My Nikon CoolPix 8700 only stops down the lens to f8, so for my macro shots I stack the photos with Helicon Focus, It is a bit of a pain to do this, but the results are worth it. Some of the stacking apps can take the series of photos at different focus distance. automatically (if they can control the camera, wither DSLR or smart phone cameras). Some related inf is also available in these threads on another forum: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45972.0 https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=50650.0

Nice model of a long forgotten '80s car. I think this car was also sold as a Dodge Charger. My GF called it "Chargette".

You do have a point Pete. Selecting a shallower angle for the subject (not a typical 3/4 view) will not require very wide depth of field, and using a telephoto lens will also help (as shown in your photo). But the way I understood the original question was to have all the objects in a photo in focus. That's where focus stacking comes in.

Excellent modeling. Even the convertible top looks like it is made of fabric.

The resin being discussed here is used in DLP (SLA) printers, and it is cured from liquid to solid with UV light (it is not a thermo-set resin that can be remelted like plastic used in filament printers).

Daniel, my reply was to your reply which I didn't find helpful at all. You are the 2nd person questioning my modeling credentials on this forum. I don't post WIPs, but you can see some of my modeling at my club's website: http://classicplastic.org/pete-w.html Photos of my models have also been published throughout the years in various modeling magazines (FineScale Modeler, Model Cars, and Scale Auto Contest Models). I hope that my modeling portfolio meets with your approval. Yes, I'm snarky because of the horse comment you made in your post. In my view, you resemble that comment more than I. I also found recent comment from Doug quite informative. Thanks Doug!

Excellent Idea Daniel! Why didn't I think of that instead of asking the forum's collective who might have used the stuff for their findings? I'll do my own experiment. I have been building plastic models for decades and I'm quite aware of the other (fragile) rub-on metallic powder solutions (like the old SnJ metallic powder). None of those were all that durable. From the more recent findings, Alsa Chrome seems like a good looking, and durable finish. Like you mentioned: if I want to find out how good the nail polish stuff is, I'll have to try it myself.

Well, I'm not looking for longevity of powdered graphite, but something that looks like chrome (for bumpers and trim), and that will get handled by human hands. As for fingernails, those get redone fairly often. But this is all just speculations - facts would be nice.

We have all these "miracle" chrome systems popping up on the forum recently, but nobody seems to have a handle on how durable they are (either in handling or longevity).

Go for it: not sure why you posted that video on magnetizing in a thread that is about workbench lighting.

Regardless of the camera type, only certain part of the photo will be in sharp focus. The range of distance on acceptable focus is called "depth of field". The smaller the aperture (numerically larger f-stop) of the lens is, the greater the depth of field. But very rarely you can get all the subjects in the photo in focus. If you want the entire photo to be in focus, you need to take a series of photos from the same vantage point, with each photo focusing at a different distance. From the closest to the camera, to the farthest object. Then you take all those photos and you "focus stack" them into a single photo which has everything in focus. Focus stacking can be a manual or automated process. Do a Google search for "focus stacking" and you will find several examples. I use Helicon Focus program.