peteski

Thanks guys! Funny thing is that the model reviewed in the video does appear to have the rear of the bonnet a bit wider than the cowl. Just like someone mentioned here earlier. Seems that this might be a common problem.

Thanks James. How about the question whether both of these releases are molded in red plastic?

I'm still confused. There was something mentioned here about a problem with the model's body and, that Revell was redoing the molds. There are currently 2 releases of this kit. Kit number 7668. I assume this is REVEL AG European release. Kit number 85-4509. I assume this is Revell's American release. If the body correction was done, which kit has the more accurate body? Ir are they both have identical plastic parts. Are both kits molded in red?

It is likely not very weird at all. It is the new look of the forum software. The "edit" button is now hidden, and I often end up clicking on "quote" button when I want to edit my own post. I usually catch myself and cancel the post, then find the real "edit" button. When I looked yesterday, there were 2 posts from you. The initial post, and the 2nd post (with a later time stamp) which had the first post quoted, but one word was modified. IIRC, you replaced "many" with "most" (or something like that). I suspect that after you posted the initial message, you re-read it some time later and decoded to make the change. But instead of "edit" you hit "quote" and made the change in your own quoted text. Seems that the moderators fixed your original post and deleted duplicate (as it is now gone).

Ah, that now-hidden "edit post" button gets me too. I end up replying to my own post. Why do they have to muck around with stuff like that? Just like Microsoft - they shuffle things, just for the sake of doing it.

Hey guys, here is the original thread that Zippi didn't find. It was not that long ago (2019). Lets see if any of you changed your explanations. That thread has a ling to another, even older thread on this subject.

I suspect that regardless how long you waited for the clear to "dry", the same problem will occur. It looks like incompatibility of the Molotow solvent and the clear.

Claude, what exactly do you think ink is? There are plenty of permanent (waterproof) inks out there which require organic solvents (like lacquer) to remove them. As I understand Tru-Color paint is also an ink. Sharpie markers use permanent ink too. Those are just few examples. Some interesting info is presented in https://printplanet.com/threads/difference-between-ink-and-paint.18367/

I guess you'll have to wait for Dave to chime in. In a meantime, when you are on a forum's topics list, if a topic has multiple pages,pages show up as numbers in squares. You should be able to click on "2", or another page, and get there. It is a pain, but it might be a workaround until the problem is resolved.

I believe it is embedded in the browser code. On my browser I can type into the URL field "about:config", then in there search for "javascript.enabled". It will likely be set to "true".

You don't download Java Script -- it is included in the browser. You can disable it (then many websites won't display properly). You are probably thinking about the JRE (Java Runtime Environment). That has to be installed separately, but not needed for most websites.

I liked those series too. "One Foot in the Grave" was also entertaining.

If you are looking for thin-wall metal tubing then you should check out hypodermic tubing. It comes in couple of wall thicknesses (both very thin). I get mine from http://www.componentsupplycompany.com/ Also Albion Alloys (in UK) sells thin-wall brass tubing which is softer than stainless steel hypodermic tubing. If you looking for a cheap solution, some pen refills (like Parker) are made from thin metal tube. I save them when they are out of ink for some possible model use. To prevent the tubing from collapsing while you flatten it, you could fill it with low-melting point metal alloy (that melts in hot water), form the tube, then put it in hot water to melt the metal out of it.

While you are waiting for possible answers, either you or your friend might do some searching yourselves: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=model+ship+propeller&t=h_&ia=web Or even narrow the search to "4-blade model ship propeller". The size you mentioned scales to about 0.25" diameter in real dimensions. That is tiny (but so is a 1:720 scale ship. Maybe search for "1:720 scale 4-blade propeller" to further narrow the search.

Ronsonol Lighter fluid is Naphtha, and is is also sold in USA as a paint thinner in a hardware store. It is called VM&P Naphtha. (That stands for Varnish Maker's & Painter's Naphtha). I use it for all sorts of purposes and it evaporates a bit faster than Testors thinner (but still slower than Lacquer Thinner or Acetone).

The more of this model I see, the more it is apparent how crudely the details are designed. It is as if they wanted to produce a simplified representation of the vehicle rather than a scale model. It looks toysh, not like a finely molded scale model.

If the LED resistor calculator indicated that a 100 ohm resistor should be used, then yes, those resistors you liked to on amazon will work correctly. But the price makes me cringe! I buy my electronic components directly from large distributors (like Digikey or Mouser Electronics) and I get them usually for less than 10 cents each. But those sites are a bit overwhelming for someone not familiar with electronic components. I guess if all you need is few resistors that are easy to order then paying $4 for 5 resistors is not all that bad. Here is a similar resistor at Digikey (10 cents each, or 10 for 74 cents). Of course there will be shipping charge. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yageo/CFR-12JT-52-100R/13921235

Well, back then I did not have a credit card to order by phone (if the option was available).

While connecting LEDs directly to a small 3V battery (which cannot supply high enough current to damage LEDs) should be safe, as a long life-long electronic hobbyist and professional electronic techcnician, I recommend using resistors with the LEDs. Small resistors with 1/8W power ratin will work well. If you Google for "LED calculator", you''ll find plenty of examples. Some better than others. Here is I handy one I randomly chosen from that search: https://ledcalculator.net/ With a 3V power supply you will have to take each LED/resistor combo and connect them in parallel with the battery. This site shows how to connect them in parallel: https://www.ledsupply.com/blog/wiring-leds-correctly-series-parallel-circuits-explained/ A small 3V battery has very little capacity. It will not last very long with directly attached 4 LEDs. Well, that depends on how much current you pass through the LEDs (see the calculator). 10mA (or 0.010A) current is a good value for fairly bright light. Go higher (20mA or 0.020A) lower (5mA or 0.005A, or even down to 1mA or 0.001A). If you hook the LEDs directly to the battery you have no control over the current. If you use resistors, you can control (lower) the current to make the battery last longer (but the LEDs will not glow as bright).

Not sure if you are old enough remember when mail order involved receiving a printed catalog in the snail-mail, puling out the order forum inside and filling it out, then mailing it along with a check or money order (via snail-mail), then waiting 8-8 weeks to receive the order via snail-mail, or UPS. Back then there was no such thing as tracking either. You just waited, and if the item showed up sooner than 6 weeks, you were overjoyed! Oh, I often used the C.O.D. payment method. My, how the world has changed . . .

Maybe so, but I have read that they pay crappy, wages and tread employees like poo.

Same like Tom: if there is a Best Offer button, I usually use it, since I have nothing to lose. I received rejections or counteroffers (they you can respond to or decline seller's counteroffer). I also had one offer with no reply from the seller (so my offer expired). I seem to recall that if you try too many offer/counteroffers then you cannot buy the item anymore. In more instances than not, I was able to save few bucks (especially when I place offers on multiple quantities of the item - those are usually not model related). I also think that some sellers are not aware that they selected to show the Best Offer button (or eBay does it for them automatically).

I hope that you don't mind some levity, but that looks like she was able to time travel? On a serious note, my condolences on your loss.

You could also add some Testors/Model Master thinner along with the lacquer thinner. It has slower evaporation rate, allowing the paint to level out better. Always test on a spoon!

I'm starting to smell a thread-lock (and I ain't talkin' Loctite).