peteski

C1 offers several wheel choices, plus there is the the kit's wire wheels option. Also Model Builder's Warehouse sells 3D printed Borrani wire wheels that with some modification can be adapted to this kit.

The latest forum software update doesn't accept the BBS codes for images generated from online photo sites. But it happily accepts the image's URL after stripping the [IMG][/IMG] tags. Which is what I did here. I simply took the URLs from Mark's post and pasted them in this post.

Yes, this is an interesting topic, but the title stinks! It is too nebulous. It looks to me more like you have a generic question about mini lathes (those questions show up here from time to time). If you titled it "Unimat 3 mini lathe upgrade", or "Unimat 3 mini lathe modification" that would be much more informative. Owning a Sheline lathe, I think that a 3-phase motor is a bit of an overkill, but heck, if it works for you then all is good.

Yes, this example shows that using the same metalizing process as is used on 1:1 cars is not the best choice for plastic models. Vacuum metalizing "chroming" using a thin layer of aluminum is much easier to work with. That process is also likely be less expensive than what Salvino's or Trumpeter used. Not sure why they went with the electroplating method.

Yes vinyl or rubber can react with the sticky adhesive on vinyl stickers.

There are many types of plastic resins. Yes, it is all "resin" (not just the Polyurethane resin models cast by small cottage industry which we call "resin" while calling the mass-produced kits "plastic" or "styrene"). In my experience Polystyrene (resin) is quite stable, while others (including 3D resins) might not be as stable. If there are no UV blockers added then prolonged exposure to sunlight will make any plastic resin surface deteriorate. The cheap lawn chairs (those are *NOT* made from Polystyrene but other resins - check the recycling symbol) probably do not have any UV blockers added, so they get "chalky" sitting outside. But our Polystyrene or ABS model kits will likely all outlast us. Most are also painted, and that also provides some amount of UV blocking. I think we have nothing to worry about when it comes to the Polystyrene (or ABS) models.

Isn't @Snake45 interested in models molded in green? Maybe he'll want it?

Perfect! Those pictures are worth a 1000 words (I didn't have any pictures handy). I also have Waldron and Micro-Mark punch sets, but the brass tubing punches work very well for thin items like BMF (or thin styrene).

I suspect that you stated this with your tongue in your cheek. Military modeling is quite popular, probably even more popular than automotive modeling. Then if you add Sci-Fi, figures and civilian aircraft (plus the newly added automotive modeling), FSM is not going anywhere. But the printed version (of all the magazines) is likely on the way to extinction.

Yes, there are many often repeated questions. Good example was a recent question about small size drill bits, even though a fairly recent thread already covered the subject very well. I simply posted a link to that older thread in the new thread. There really is not need to basically repeat the info covered in the older thread.

I would take some brass thin-wall (or even hypodermic) tubing close in diameter to the items you want cover, sharpen the end, then use the tubing as a punch to punch out small disks of BMF, then apply them to the model.

Most (if not all) household air-moving fans use AC induction (brushless) motors. I suspect those are also the motors used in those paint booths. Motors with brushes are usually used in AC-powered power tools (drills, saws, routers, etc.)

You could also try using a pencil type soldering iron to heat and bend the strip (since a torch doesn't give you enough control). Hold the strip over the iron (since heat raises), without actually touching the iron. That will likely let the strip heat enough to bend. It might take several seconds. The radius can be controlled by where you heat the strip. If you hold it over the iron's tip, the radius will be small. If you hold it over the irons thick barrel, the radius should be larger.

If you scroll back to the top of that page, you will see that the right side (blank) pane has the statistics (which seem useless). Because of that, the entire right side of the page is left blank (since it hosts that statistics pane).

Now that I think about it, you do have a point Greg. I have also experienced thin strip disintegration when treated with solvent cement. Pre-forming, then gluing might be the way to go. Thin strips are usually flexible enough to be shaped by hand without breaking.

Yes, I'm also noticing the statistics sidebar on some (but not all threads). I don't like that it wastes the right 1/3 of the screen. I hope there is a setting to get rid of it. I don't really care about the threads statistics. I read them for the contents.

Len, unless you moved to the moon, why not just get some more of solvent based liquid cement or MEK? Or have those become so scarce that you can't find any to buy?

Thanks!

I can't find seller "best model parts" on eBay, and their search function stinks. What is the exact seller's name.

What I find amusing is that the member who started this thread has visited the forum recently (last night) but has not replied to any of the questions here. He seems to have ranted and ran.

Another online forum I participate in has a warning when I try to respond to an old thread: Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 30 days. Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic. Not sure if this forum software has this type of capability.

EBay is full of listings with outrageous prices that get relisted for very long time periods (sometimes like year or longer). You can thank the eBay's fee structure for that. We have discussed this on this forum in the past. In the good days of eBay, there was an insertion fee, opening price fee, and then the ending fee (based on the percentage of the selling price). But now you can list for free, and only pay when the item sells. That enables all those "dreamers" to list their overpriced items, hoping for a sucker to come along.

Very interesting!

While bringing back some old threads (as mentioned earlier) makes sense, and is useful, some are brought back out-of-the blue with absolutely no useful purposes.