peteski

This advce applies to pretty much any paint pen, especially ones with metallic paints.

I ordered a kit from them (it was in stock) few weeks ago. Quick and painless transaction. I placed the order, they sent me a PayPal invoice, few days later it was shipped via DHL. I have to admit due to the Japanese/English translation, and Japanese ways of dealing with things in general the ordering process might be a bit awkward, but I still got the model I wanted. I'm pretty sure that if the website shows the item in stock, it will be shipped promptly (within few days). But you should not expect Amazon Prime type of same-day order and delivery speed. Things take time. We are spoiled by the "Amazons of the world", so if we don't get instant gratification, we get miffed.

LOL! Those were Tribbles. Greeblies are all the assorted random details added to a model (usually SicFi), to make it more impressive looking.

I work night shift, so I sleep during the day (roughly 7am-1pm). I don't have much problem falling asleep during daylight, but my neighbors used let the dogs bark outside and that drove me nuts. IN the summer I have window AC which when running masks the noises, but in the winter I was screwed. I bought myself a small fan and white noise generator and it word as well (or better) than my window AC! Highly recommended! This is the model I have. It has multiple fan sounds and multiple noise choices. It is a small unit, but if you crank the volume up, it packs a punch!

If you have the plastic or resin body with those taillights, get some RTV rubber putty and make impressions of the taillights. Then get some clear urethane or epoxy material and make castings. You can either tint the resin using red dye, or use clear resin and then paint the taillights with some transparent red paint (Tamiya or other brand). Or take some clear red material (like a toothbrush handle) and shape it to the desired shape using files and sandpaper., Then polish it is smooth.

That was a fun quiz. I instantly recognized the body as a Triumph, but the hard top took a bit more research. It is a good looking car.

I'm very meticulous with my paint bottles. When I'm ready to put the cap back on, I always clean the lip of the bottle and the seal inside the cap. Not just wipe the paint off, but I use lacquer thinner on paper towel to remove all the paint. Once I tighten the cap I shake the bottle so the paint gets on the seal. That way if the seal isn't 100% tight, the paint will dry in the areas that are not tight, sealing them tightly. I have some paint bottles that are over 30 years old, and the paint is still usable. And of course, I never have problems opening the bottle (just using my hand).

Sounds like the material they used for tires is not very stable. I would be worried that it will get worse with age, and eventually the tires will start "melting".

Yes, that tiking's model is awesome! Dave, while it is a god ideal to add the image button to the text editor choices, I don't believe it is the problem. It seems that something has changed in the way the text edit window handled pasted links to photos. Multiple people seem to have the problem where the method of linking to photos from outside sites )which worked for years) no longer works in the current version of the forum. Maybe you could look into whether there is a way to make it work the same way as it did in the past. I don't use external hosting so I don't have a problem, but I have tried helping numerous members who started having problems with linking photos from external sites.

Yes, I have heard this mentioned numerous times. Yet, shaking is the only mixing method used in thousands of hardware stores and home improvement stores all over the U.S. And the latex paint those paint shakers mix, shaking the bejesus out of is rather thick, so it should be really prone to trapping air bubbles. I have never had any air-bubbles problems with my latex paint after it was being shaken, and I never heard of anybody complain that the paint shakers create air bubbles, making the paint difficult to apply. Most of our hobby paints are also less viscous than the latex house paint, so bubbles should even be less of a concern.

Well, knock me over with a feather Ric. I'm glad to know the reason for creation of this strange contraption, and I'm happy to know that nobody was looking for my approval. I'm also glad that I was given a chance to comment on this happy experiment, and thanks for commenting on my 8-month old post.

Yes, every contest has its own set of "box stock" rules. There is no universal set of rules every contest uses. Best to check the rules for the specific contests. Usually the contest flyer with the rules is available long before the contest takes place. Foil (BMF, or whatever) is usually allowed because it is basically considered part of the finishing process - like paint.

LOL! Last week I saw a NH license plate OLDLADY. That made me smile.

I suspect that many people (like me) do not like to announce their personal info on the Internet (especially if it is easily accessible). I either leave the personal info blank, provide false info, or generalize. I ok with people on websites not knowing my real birth-date. It is quite possible that the 111-year-old member did no enter accurate info in their profile.

Hopefully BMF will get back to you, but (if you haven't done it) I would still recommend re-sending your email - just in case.

I have not. I also have few sheets left from a batch I bought years ago. At that time it came from BMF directly. Some of those sheets have few wrinkles, but the adhesive seems ok. I'm still curious about the specific reasons you contacted BMF. You started this thread asking about discoloration, was that it, or did you experience other problems too? EDIT: Actually you didn't start this thread at all. I better go back and re-read all the posts. I re-read all the posts and you only mentioned "concerns about the new product". Can you elaborate? What specific problems are you seeing with the foil you have? Which type of foil do you use?

As I keep mentioning, Ultra Bright Chrome is quite different from the standard Chrome and they should not be compared. BMF came out with it after Detail Master came out with their (crappy) version of "chrome" foil, touting that it was much better looking than the BMF's chrome. Detail Master version is even crappier than BMF Ultra Bright Chrome. The pliability of the BMF Chrome foil greatly outweigh its slightly less shiny appearance. I suspect that BMF doesn't sell much of their Ultra Bright Chrome, and the Detail Master version is probably long discontinued (I haven't really checked).

I wouldn't be so harsh. Give them few more days, then resend your email (preferable from a different email address if you have one). There could be multiple reasons for lack of response. Did you check your Spam folder? In today hectic workld we expect immediate gratification, and are totally disappointed if it doesn't happen. Sometimes things take time.

How much is the shipping charge? It might be worth to just pay for shipping and get the part. Well, unless the shipping cost is unreasonable high. Some model companies (Revell?) ask for the UPC barcode or some other identifying item taken from the kit's box when requesting spare parts.

Now imagine someone doing that with all the models you acquired and stashed in the last few decades!

No need to go to such extremes. Not sure what chemicals are in the stuff you use, but they might actually damage polystyrene. Gentle sanding of the model's body, then a gentle wash with warm water and a good dish-washing detergent (like Dawn, Joy, etc.) will be more than adequate for body prep. If you really worry you can use some isopropyl alcohol. Some water-based acrylic paint companies sell paint prep solutions, but they are rather pricey and not really needed. Detergent will remove all dirt and oil. I wash the car bodies in my kitchen sink using cheap soft paint brush and Joy. Then rinse it well, and blow-dry using compressed air. I suppose the water could be shaken off the model, then air dry. I don't use a towel because that might deposit some lint on the model.

if the decals are still on the intact sheet another way to fix them is to spray the entire sheet with a wet coat of lacquer thinner. The basically remelts the clear film areas on the decal sheet. I had good luck with that method. The Liquid decal film also works well, but I usually brush on 3 or 4 coats (it dries very thin). This stuff is basically a type of clear lacquer that uses alcohol as solvent, so airbrushing any clear lacquer also giver satisfactory results. But Liquid Decal Film dries very flexible since it is the same stuff decal manufacturers use as the decal's clear film.

If one read through the entire thread, discoloration was mentioned, and also the fact that it can easily be polished back to original color. The original Chrome foil is *NOT* just aluminum foil. It is some sort of metal alloy that has low melting temperature - it can easily be melted with a soldering iron - can't do that with aluminum. That "secret" alloy is the reason the foil is so malleable - it conforms easily to bumps and depressions on the model. Since it is not aluminum, if there are some chemical vapors in the ambient air, the foil could discolor slightly. Or if it is in contact with some material which is emitting some chemical vapors. But that can easily be polished out. Even rubbing it with soft cloth or a paper towel should clean up some light discoloration.

The meanings of those icons is shown when one hovers over each (at least on a non-tablet computers). Trophy means "thanks" (trophy seems sort of an awkward icon), next is "HaHa", then "Confused", and "Sad".

Here in Northeast MA we are in a heat wave. 3rd day of 90+ weather, and dew points in the 70s. Right now it is 96 deg. F! My ACs are going full blast. At least the weekend and next week will cool down to the 70s and 80s and not as muggy.