peteski

In my modeling I use all sorts of materials (including plastic and metal), and have no problems bonding any of them to the others. Well, the bond will no be as strong as welding (melting) pieces of styrene together using a solvent-type adhesive, but the joints I make are strong enough. And many times, with metal-to-metal, I use soldering instead of gluing for very strong bond. When joining dissimilar materials it is best to first make sure the glued area is absolutely clean (degreased), and also roughened a bit with some sandpaper, or by scraping with a knife. I could never build my models using just styrene. Way too limiting!

I really don't see why the material a model kit is made of matters. Metal or plastic. All plastics (including Polystyrene or ABS which are generally used for model kits) are all resins. Same with 3D printed materials. As long as the model came in pieces (or was disassembled and modified in some way), then reassembled, that qualifies it as a model kit. Otherwise it is a "collectible". But then the techniques used on plastic model kits are usually different than what is done with diecast models. That is where the separation should be (in work in progress).

Since we both have proof of what we stated, then obviously Plastuct changed their formula. And for the cheapskates in us, MEK can be purchased at hardware stores in large quantities. I bought a quart container and it is much more economical than buying those expensive tiny hobby bottles of glue. I think MEK might be banned in some States in the U.S. but I found it in my hardware store in Mass.

If course - thanks! Had a brain cramp . . .

That is kind of vague. You need some more info, like the forum name of the modeler, or maybe what brand/make was the model? WIP section is quite active and even after 1 day threads often scroll off to the 2nd or 3rd page (viewed on a computer in a web browser).

The reason I stated what I did was because I looked at the label on my bottle. My Plastic Weld doesn't smell anything like MEK (I know the smell from sniffing Testors Liquid Cement, and the quart-size can of MEK I have in my workshop. Just kidding - I don't sniff this stuff, but I do what MEK smells like. Anyway, as you can see that the label mentions no MEK either. But granted, the bottle is at least 15 years old - maybe Plastuct changed their Plastic Weld Formula?

Tom, the paver looks amazing! I still marvel at your ability to whip up a super-details model from some odds and ends in your workshop and a repair manual.

I never understood this separation of scales in the car sections. A model car is a model car. Under Glass should encompass all scales of automobiles. That is a welcome change. Also nice that other types of models gained their own Under Glass sections. Good job!

OK than, so it is not as clear-cut with truck wheels as it is with cars. With cars, the 1.5" size difference between the stated bead size, and outside rim diameter is pretty much given. I learned something new here - thanks. I was also wondering why trucks have odd size rims (like 22.5), instead of full numbers used on cars (15, 16, 18). But is seems that originally (with tube tires) rims did have full number sizes, and they gained the 0.5" when migrating to tubeless rims/tires. If that is accurate, it makes sense to me now.

Except for Testors, AFAIK the other brand cements do not contain MEK (they use other solvents). But they still dissolve and weld styrene and ABS.

Very nice! They look to be printed in gray resin, probably on a SLA type printer.

Hmm, even though the summary shows over 42,00 posts, when I go there, no posts show up. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/forum/16-car-aftermarket-resin-3d-printed/

Good tip! Looks like a DIY partial version of FLEX-I-FILE. https://www.flex-i-file.com/ I might also try using a strip of the flexible sanding film (not paper) mentioned in

Wow - this is a mayor reshuffle! I have feeling that merging general cars and trucks discussions will make the truck unhappy, but it whatever the mods decide goes. I'm also not sure where motorcycles will fit in - probably where they were in the past.

While in 1:1 world the tire size is measured on the inside of the bead, in the modeling world we really need to know what the visible diameter of the rim is. I do that for passenger car wheels and it would be nice if this info was provided by aftermarket manufacturers (for both the tire and rim). Also, some model rims do not have any lip, others do. Same goes for model tires. That complicates trying to find the right wheel/tire combo. In passenger tires/wheels, the larges visible rim diameter is about 1.5" larger than the specified 1:1 tire diameter. So a 1:1 16" wheel will really have 17.5" diameter visible outside of the tire. If the same holds true for trucks (I suspect that it does, then a 22.5" rim would actually have visible diameter of 24" and a 24.5" rim would have visible diameter of 26". That would be respectively 1" in 1:24 scale; 0.96" in 1:25 scale, and 1.08" in 1:24 scale; 1:04" in 1:25 scale. It would be very helpful if aftermarket manufacturers provided this type of dimensions to modelers. That way it would be easier to find matching rims and tires. American SATCO provided theses actual tire dimensions on their tire sets.

In order to draw a shape from another shape you would need to make several dies, each progressively closer to the desired shape, each removing very small amount of material. First one would be almost the same shape as the material you are drawing, then each one closer to the final shape. But that is probably way too much effort.

That's what I'm thinking. In the scale we are working in, you won't be able to tell that the back of the rods is not airfoil-shaped. Why model something that won't be visible? And you can get Evergreen styrene rods or half-round shapes down to some small sizes. BTW. do we have any photos of what the 1:1 radiator grille looks like?

I didn't find the USPS site confusing. I entered the required info (not complicated) and arrived at the same price your PO clerk did. Of course, the simplest way (like you said) is to speak to a live clerk at the post office. But I have seen examples of some clerks not being aware of all the shipping options (which is weird because they are all displayed on their computer screen - just like I show above). but there are incompetent people everywhere.

I'm not familiar with that particular primer but here are some strippers to try: 99% or 91% Isopropyl alcohol maybe? And it should be warm (80-90 deg. F, not hot) to increase its potency. Testors/Floquil ELO (Easy Lift Off) paint remover. Scalecoat Wash Away paint remover. There is a lengthy (sticky) thread here about paint strippers (and there is a good chance that Plastikote is mentioned there).

Ronsonol brand lighter fluid should be readily available in smoke shops, pharmacies and many supermarkets. It is basically Naphtha (type of a petroleum distillate). BBQ starter fluid (Kerosene) is in that family of products, but it takes much longer to evaporate. Naphtha is carried by most hardware stores as VM&P Naphta in quart and gallon cans. That stands for (Varnish Makers & Painters Naphtha) and it is much cheaper than Ronsonol. I always have a quart handy for all sorts of cleanups (it also works great for removing gummy sticker adhesive residues). But any petroleum product can attack paint, so be careful. Naphtha is fairly mild, but if you leave it on the painted surface too long, or rub too hard, it might slightly affect the surface.

Still employed (working from home), and busy as ever. Chores, and lots of hobby projects. Also delivering groceries to my 80-something mom in her apartment, so she doesn't have to go out. No time to be bored or to have many gloomy thoughts. I also still spend too much time on my computer posting in online forums!

Looking at Jack's profile, he visited 11 hours ago, but he is a very infrequent posted, and he mostly looks for parts or kits. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/profile/14598-cliff-dagger/

I got a good laugh from the original price tag on the kit: less than $3!

I have never used that feature. Not that I want to. You learn something new every day. I wonder is some people think that those exchanges they have in public are private? Or maybe they don't care?

In my experience CA glue works exceedingly well on vinyl and rubber (and plastic of course). If those are vinyl, you might wash them in alcohol first (vinyl sometimes had an oily film on its surface, or leaches out plasticizer). I also love to use CA accelerator (BSI brand, I might add), which gives me a bond in the matter of seconds (if not sooner).