peteski

Photoetched wipers are acceptable in 1:43 scale, but in larger scales they IMO are just too thin. They should be more 3-dimensional. But unfortunately there are only 2 options available: kit's chunky plastic wipers, and the paper-thin (but otherwise in-scale) wipers. I wish someone would produce correctly dimensioned metal wipers. Lost-wax brass castings technique could be used to produce them. I have made some better looking wipers using discarded LED leads (which have square cross-section. They look good, but are a pain to make.

You know Mark, posting the same question in multiple sections of the forum will not do you any favors. And it is milling, not milking.

https://www.sherline.com/ Great product, great support. Large range of accessories. U.S. based. But pricey compared to the Chinese tools. I owned Sherline lathe/mill for over 30 years.

There are different types of 3D printers. Sounds like you are talking about the ones which use hot filament. But then there are printers which use liquid UV-light-curable resin. No heat.

I think primers are yet another type of coating - they probably don't fit the standard enamel/lacquer nomenclature.

I've ordered directly from http://uscp-ua.com/ and I'm a happy customer. One of the wheels I ordered was defective. I sent them a photo of it and they sent me a replacement.

there are ways around that (if one wants to).

As I understand, alkyds are enamels (so they first dry by solvent evaporating, then they undergo a chemical transformation to fully harden).

I wholeheartedly agree.

I understand - thanks. The only way to stop the paint (but not air) flow is to release the trigger so the needle stops the paint flow.

They even tried this on railroads. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Pacific_GTELs

Nail polish is a fairly "hot" lacquer. Similar to regular automotive paints. They come in a huge range of colors, and with metallic flakes ranging from huge (larger than what is used on those sparkly bass-boats) to small enough to look totally smooth (no flake, just metallic sheen). For me the scale size of the paint's metallic flakes on a model is important. For example the Testor's One Coat paints have metallic flakes which look too large for 1:24 or smaller models. This is not as noticeable when viewed in person, but when photographed, the model painted using oversize metallic flakes paint looks terrible. Here is an example of a model I build and painted using nail polish. It is 1:43 scale, and the metallic flake in that nail polish is really small, so it works well on that model. Another good thing about nail polishes is that they come in glass bottles, so you can see the size of its metallic flakes - not like a "mystery paint" you get in a spray can. I hope that Kurt doesn't mind me posting a photo of my model here.

You guys are forgetting about these new-fangled self-driving cars for millennials. No need to drive or pay attention - the car will take you wherever you want to go.

Thanks Steve, I figured as much. Should have put a smiley in my post.

?? You pay $2.50 for processing the entire tree?!

Oh, I think I finally understand. So as long as its little compressor is running, the air comes out of the nozzle (even if your finger is not on the trigger)?! The only way to stop the paint (but not air) flow is to release the trigger so the needle stops the paint flow? That is really unconventional.

Ouch! How does a spark plug shoot out of the cylinder head with no apparent thread damage? It just slowly unscrews itself?

About dual action: Does the air come out when you press the trigger down? Can you also pull the trigger back to open up the nozzle (to allow more paint to flow)? If yes, then it is a dual-action airbrush. None of the dual action airbrushes I have worked with allowed you to control the air volume/pressure. The trigger is just on-off for air. If I wanted to control the air pressure, I had to do that at the pressure regulator at the compressor.

Be careful with "hot" water and spray cans. They can explode. The warnings on those cans are there for a reason. You don't want to have paint spewed all over your workshop. I would highly discourage anybody from making the can warmer than a 100 deg. F. You need to be able to put your hand in the warm water without any discomfort.

It is not just that I don't want any parts lost, but if you look at the photo of my parts, many are very small and delicate. No way you can just plop them into some silicone glue. I had to drill holes in them and glue in brass rods for mounts. I would not expect this type of service being done by the person who does the "chroming". Plus, they would not know where I want to install the brass mounts (unless I explained it, maybe by drawing diagram). I also use liquid mask on many parts to prevent the clear coat and the metal coat from covering bare plastic. Again, nothing that could realistically be done by the person doing the service. I really need to do those things myself and just send a complete tree out.

Not sure if Rusty was talking about a farming implement . . .

You're not fooling anybody Alexandr! Those are photos of a 1:1 car, not a model. It even has little pebbles stuck in its tire treads. Nice job - very realistic model!

The ONCE UPON A TIME thread has outgrown even this one. But I never felt compelled to post there.

Water-based paint should not affect polystyrene. Not sure why they fail to mention that the paint is compatible with it.

How does it feel when you're not just holding a small pen-size airbrush, but also a miniature compressor and a battery are hanging off of it? Is it awkward to use? How loud it the noise?