peteski

MCG is Model Car Garage - a company that makes lots of model car photo-etched detail parts.

I think what others are saying about clogged spray cans is that the tube inside is clogged (not the nozzle itself). Here is how I maximize the life of my spray cans. I'm an airbrush guy, but whenever I use spray cans (hey, even when I decant them for airbrushing), after spraying I always turn them upside down and spray until no paint comes out. Then I religiously follow this procedure: I first pull off the nozzle. Next, I take a pipette with lacquer thinner and I put the thinner in the valve hole in the top of the can. Make sure it goes down all the way (sometimes an air bubble forms). I let it sit there for a minute, then I use compressed air to blow the thinner out of the valve hole. So, that I know that the valve is nice and clean. Next, I have a nylon-body pipette where its opening perfectly accepts the spray can nozzle stems. I push the nozzle stem into the pipette. I put some lacquer thinner in a shot glass then I immerse the nozzle in it, alternately squeezing and releasing the pipette's bulb. This sucks and expels the lacquer thinner through the nozzle, completely flushing it out (while the paint in it is still fresh). That's it. I then don't put the nozzle's steam back in the clean valve - I just drop the clean nozzle in the spray can's cap and put the cap over the can. That way I don't take a chance of jamming the nozzle too deep, causing the paint to spray through my freshly cleaned valve and nozzle. Yes, I know this seems a bit of an overkill and a chore, but it really doesn't take much time and I actually enjoy doing thus (especially knowing that this will prevent clogging of the valve and nozzle). The process takes much less time than it took me to write this up. So every time I spray from that can, it is like a brand new can. No paint residue!

And I missed all the "fun". I will buy that kit when it becomes available. Why are car modelers so averse to prices outside of their comfort zone (assuming that is what killed that thread)? Wasn't the price simply just a speculation? Even new Tamiya 1:24 automotive kits go for pretty penny nowadays (and you should see the prices for some of their larger scale aircraft). How about the Ebbro Citroen DS21? I think I spend about $80 for that kit (not including the shipping costs).

There is another currently active (and even longer) thread about this problem. There, Matt posted a link to a list of SQL commands which are likely triggering the SQL Injection Filter which causes all these problems. If someone is having the problem, it would make sense to look at the command words listed on that site and see if your post contains one or more of them. If it does, try to misspell those words or break them up somehow. Maybe l i k e t h i s. That will not awaken the dreaded filter and allow you to post your message. Here is Matt's post which had the link to those forbidden words. Too bad that this thread cannot easily be merged with the above thread, but I really don't think that would work.

Thanks for the info JP. Yes, once I get building my Caddy models I'll post my progress here. As for the decals, I thought that those were not just pinstripes but also those Caddy emblems your model has on the C-pillars and trunk lid. If those are not decals, how did you make them? Bare Metal Foil under paint? Your job at "Musée Keyaerts" must have been quite interesting. You are a "Cadillac Man" for sure!

Here comes this one! https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/trucks/a30000525/thor24-big-rig-sells-for-12-million/

The link works but only shows couple of paragraphs. To read the full story I would need to sign in or subscribe.

As I mentioned in several other BMF-related threads here, there is no substitute for the BMF's original chrome foil! It is not an aluminum foil and it is very thin. Whatever alloy it is made, it is quite stretchable and pliable. Much more so than stiff aluminum foil. I suspect it contains some low-melting-point metals (like tin, bismuth or somoe other similar metal). You can actually melt it with a regular soldering iron running at around 700 deg. F (can't do that with aluminum). Because it is not aluminum, it has a slightly warm color which make it look a bit like nickel, but it still looks great as chrome. That pliability is what makes it the best. Other foils (including some other varieties of BMF) are aluminum foil. They are nowhere as good or easy to work with. Years ago I tried Detail Master foil. While it looked just like chrome, it was impossible to snug into complex curves. I only used it few times on flat surfaces and tossed it. And to toot my own horn a bit, the model showcased on the BMF packaging is mine. I sent some photos of my models to BMF, back around 20 years ago, and El (BMF's proprietor) decided to use them in ads, and on the packaging.

Hi Jean-Philippe, thanks for your compliments. I do love my 1:1 Eldorado. Too bad nobody (except for terrible TKM resin kit) makes a model of that car. I have some small die-cast models and couple well done NEO 1:43 models. In the '90s I used to drive a white 1984 Eldorado Biarritz as my daily driver, but after using it for many years I had to get rid of it. Yes, IMO the Biarritz package is nice, without being too gaudy. My GF found the blue/white one for me in a newspaper For Sale ad, back in 2000. It only had 36000 miles on it. I also love its color combination, and the white leather interior. Even though it is smaller than the older Eldorados, it still rides (or should I say "floats like a boat") like the older cars did. Today's cars don't ride like that anymore. I only drive it few in the summer time, and put is away for the winter. In my area winter salt eats cars fast! It now only has 43000 miles on it. It needs some work, but it is still quite presentable. I take it to couple of car shows over the summer, where mine is usually a lone example of that body style at the shows. When these cars were new, they were quite advanced technologically. It has early throttle-body digital fuel injection, trip computer and digital gauges, power memory front seats, front-wheel drive, 4-wheel disk breaks and 4-wheel independent suspension (with torsion bars up front). With stabilizer bars on both ends it takes corners surprisingly well. Sorry that I went' off-topic, but I thought you might like some more details. For a daily driver I have a 2019 KIA Soul (and before that 2006 Scion xB). I bet that you miss your '73 Sedan deVille! Yes, please let me know the hood ornament seller's name - hopefully he will be selling those ornaments again. And I had no ideal that Studio27 made decals for Cadillacs. I know they made decals mostly for Japanese sports and competition cars. What was the decal made for? Do yo have its part number (so I will have easier time searching for it). I have several Caddy kits to be built,and they could use those ornaments and decals.

In all seriousness, something similar was described in a lengthy thread, back in May of last year. I recommend reading it - fun read, with some explanations. It seems that @Tom Geiger is the guy in-the-know about how Postal Service deals with mail. Maybe he will chime in here too. While I still think that the computer programing they use to route the mail is buggy, sometimes mistakes or glitches will happen too. They move millions of pieces of mail a day, and the world as we know it isn't perfect. I'm in no way making excuse here - just looking at the ":big picture". In my years of receiving and sending mail, I experienced few mishaps too. While it sucks, it seems unavoidable part of life. Here you go!

It was my attempt of being facetious. It makes no sense (unless the tracking info was incorrect and the package did not pass through your post office before being sent on its extra sightseeing trip). Still, it makes no sense to humans how buggy computer algorithms work.

Very well built model Jean-Philippe. I like the modifications, and the color combination. Gorgeous! Where did you find the hood ornament and decals? The hood ornament looks really nice and scale-thin. Funny thing is that Cadillac continued the half-roof theme until the end of Eldorado. My 1985 Eldorado Biarritz also has that type of partial vinyl roof. But because it is the Biarritz model, it also features stainless steel roof cladding. This continued until Eldorado was discontinued. But IMO, that vinyl roof didn't look good on the late model Eldos.

I agree that a "model kit" is a "model", regardless of the mediums. Polystyrene/ABS plastic, Urethane Resin, Metal, 3D acrylic resin, etc. As long as the kit was was assembled and painted by the modeler, all those should all be treated equally. If a factory-assembled and painted model is stripped and rebuilt by the models, it should also be treated on equal footing with model kits. But if someone just collects factory-assembled models, then they belong in the diecast sections.

Gone to trash? I seem to recall someone here say say that the route for a package is carefully chosen (but some computer program) to be most efficient route. Regardless of what how it looks to us silly humans.

NICE!! I just have their ROCK AND ROLL OVER belt buckle.

Did the new release also include the custom front clip, and those awful hard plastic 2-piece tires?

But are you dressed to kill? Do you have love gun? I have the one I built as a teenager (looks awful), and an unbuilt kit. Sorry - not for sale. I got the kit on eBay several years ago.

Neah, the eraser's consistency is much less gelatinous.

Wow, that is a strong opinion! You do have to admit that all hot dogs are made from pink slime - just some is pinker than the other. Still, I eat them (even the turkey ones sometimes). Next I'll be trying tofu-dogs.

It was posted here on Dec 31st.

I wasn't saying that what you are doing with your scans is wrong. I was just saying that it would be nice to have all the instructions on a single site, indexed, and easily found. Just like the old DPMCC site was. Sorry if my message gave a wrong impression.

The go to place for online scanned instruction sheets was for years Drastic Plastic Model Club website. Everything was well-organized and the actual scans were on the Fotki site. Then things happened, and the webpage was not longer functional. But the Fotki site is still up with hundreds of instruction sheets available. As I mentioned before, I have submitted scans of some instructions listed under "wanted" section and they were uploaded by Bob Black to that Fotki site. That was few years back. I still use the site but I'm not sure if Bob is still around maintaining it. His email address is listed on the Fotki site. https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/ Personally I would rather have all the scans on a single site (not have to scour the Internet to find what I need). But things change, people move on . . . I guess the important thing is that someone somewhere provided this service to modelers.

I'm also not sure why or how, but I got burned by it, so I warned others. It ruined my Pocher 1:8 scale Mercedes 540K gauges - they turned dark amber. I have also used on couple other models (for headlight lenses or other clear items, and they all yellowed (turned amber).

The forum's user account settings are not stored on your computer. Your original username/password are still on the forum's website. Couldn't you just login again as Ken Gilkeson? If you forgot your old password, you can always request a password reset. There should be no need to have 2 accounts on the forum. Actually that type of behavior usually looks suspicious to the moderators. But no matter how you post those photos Ken, your model is amazing.

Yes, I do. And I have scanned several and gave the scans to Bob Black (to post on his Drastic Plastic Fotki instructions site). I have also used his service finding missing instructions for some kit I got.