peteski

If that is the Heller kit, I have it too, and I'm planning on making custom canework decals. But knowing me and how many projects I have in the "oven", it might take me 10 years to get to that one. So, don't count on me.

"Future furniture polish finish" Greg, I know that I'm being anal, but it is one of those things. This thing has not been called 'Future" for a very long time, but we ask know what it is, so that's cool. But it is not (or ever has been a furniture polish". Well, unless you want your hutch really glossy. It also isn't a floor polish. It is a floor finish (or shine, or whatever they call it now). "Polish" implies that the stuff does not add any thickness to the polished surface, where this stuff is actually an acrylic clear coat (like paint). Doesn't this forum have lengthy and sticky thread about this stuff already, with lots of hints there? And as usual, when someone mentions Future, I point then to the Swanny: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

In my experience the problem can be cause by certain word or letter combinations. Try a simple test message and see if it goes through. Use word "test" for both the subject and for the messae and see if that works. If yes, then there is probably something in your failing message that causes the 404 error.

Only place I use Win 10 is at work (because IT department forced it on us). At home I use Win 7, Win XP and Win 98SE. No problems with either (althought I only let my Win 7 computer out on the Internet).

I'm surprised that microwaves would heat up polystyrene (or any kind of plastic for that matter).

I'm one of the modelers who is on the same page with Steve regarding the Testors paints metallic size particles being way out of scale. I take photos at my club's annual contest (to be published in Scale Auto Contest Annual) and the size of metal flakes shows up in those photos really well (and they look like bass-boats not model cars).

What made you bring back 11-year-old thread and make this cryptic post?

Maybe someone could whip those out on their 3D printer? Nowadays, sky's the limit.

Could you be more specific? Maybe in New Zealand most modelers know what E7 is, and where to get it, but in USA I never heard of E7. EDIT: Ah, this is the same line of (water-based?) paints you described in the Molotow Chrome sealant thread. Got it.

Thread?! You mean "heavy gauge wire", right? We haven't used thread as for wire for quite some time now. Actually, if those geniuses used thread instead of that "scale wire", it would actually be closer to scale.

I hope that it was not baking soda followed by CA glue. I would highly discourage that type of filler. I wonder if it was the acrylic powder and hardener liquid. Stuff you can get at beauty shops (for fingernail sculpting).

What you did sounds good to me. The CA should result in smooth fillets. You didn't specify what you used as "small wires". It could be soft copper wire, thin bras rod or steel music wire. The latter would be the strongest. If you really want strength you could build everything out of brass and silver solder parts together.

. . . still drooling over the closeups of the wire wheels! Wow!

Maybe there is another member with similar user name. When logging in he mistyped his name (so it ended up Mike C) and didn't notice it. Of course his password wouldn't work on your account, so it was locked.

Weird! I could have sworn that in my last reply I posted a link to my other post which proves that certain word combinations cause the 404 error, but the link is not there! Anyway, if you want to learn more about the weird 404 error behavior, read the post linked to below and several following posts.

That is not quite accurate. Lots of lacquers produce super-glossy finish. Only the ones which are base coat in base-coat/clear-coat paint systems dry to a satin finish, because they need the glossy clear coat.

LOL, I wasn't quite sure what that reply was telling us. Thanks for the translation. Not sure why Easy Off was needed. We usually use that stuff (lye-based chemicals) to safely strip paint from plastic model bodies. I would imagine that lacquer thinner or acetone would also work well for removing dried up paint in mixing bottles. Whether those are plastic or glass, they should be resistant to either of those chemicals, and would I rather mess around with lacquer thinner or acetone, than with lye.

Simple, yet effective! Nice!

That is an absolutely gorgeous model! The wire wheels are spectacular with the accurately cross-laced spokes! What about the batteries for the electrical circuit? What size does it need?

Great diorama! Lighting and backdrop too! Funny how Monogram molded the shadows into the base. How did you model the gold tint on the helmet visors?

Ken, I'm really enjoying the build progress photos. I also noticed that those look like scans of paper prints. How long ago have you started this build?

NJ, how are your decals printed? Laser or Alps MicroDry printer, silk-screened, or offset printed (or some other method I failed to mention)?

It looks great and it is also nice to know that Don is still doing some resin casting in his spare time. ANd the kit will include window "glass" photo-etched bits and decals? Wow! Too bad you don't offer pre-orders - I'm in for at least one of these beauties. I would love to get one of the early castings (when the mold is still perfect), but your current eBay auction listing sales system is not very friendly to the potential buyers.

Hobby Search is in Japan and their site is cluttered (like most Japanese hobby-related sites). But they are for real and have lots of useful items available. I have ordered from them few times - no problems.

I see that there is a difference between just modeling and scale modeling, and those people seem to be just modelers. Their efforts are not in scale.