peteski

I still have access to it. Clear your browser's caches, cookies, etc., spin a rubber chicken over your head, and do whatever else is needed to appease the Internet Gods!

Did you use Corel Draw for the decal artwork? What did you print them on? I wonder why was this thread moved from "Under Glass" section to "Drag Racing Models"? Isn't "Under Glass" section for showcasing completed models? Puzzling . . .

Nice! Have you build any plastic kit since the time you've "gone wood"?

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk!

Best drill bits for me are the Tungsten Carbide (TC) bits with 1/8" shafts used in the printed circuit board (PCB) industries. They have split point cutting edge (even the smallest sizes) and they are super sharp, so they cut through stuff like through butter. TC is a very hard material, so they stay sharp pretty much forever (for what we used them in modeling). But because the TC is so hard, it is very brittle. You have to either have very light touch when using them in hand-held power tools, or use a drill press. Also, because the all have 1/8" shank, chucking them is problem-free. These bits are available from several sources, including Micro-Mark and eBay. Shop around for best prices.

Not only that (one can become a grandma in their 30s), bu they are now approaching the dawn sunset of their life.

Both the model and the presentation are fantastic!

ElCamaro? For some reason it looks Photoshopped to me.

Like already mentioned, if the model is waxed before applying BMF, that can affect its adhesion. Especially if it is a silicone-based wax. BMF should be applied ether to clean bare (polished) plastic surface, or to glossy painted surface. I have some BMF that is around 20+ years old and the adhesive still works (well, it did when I used it couple of years ago). I should add that my experience is almost exclusively with the "Original Chrome" foil. Well, I did also use a small piece of the gold foil for foiling a Chevy bow tie emblem. That worked ok. I did try the BMF bright chrome foil and I found it unusable (similar to the thankfully gone Detail Master foil). It was too stiff and not stretchy enough to conform to complex curves. I never tried using the black foil either. Here are few of my 1:32 scale Gunze Sangyo models I built in the early '90s. These were my first attempts of using BMF (with the Blue Caddy was my first BMF job). And that light blue '57 Chevy photo you see on the BMF envelopes is also from this series of kits (and build and photographed by me). I was honored when El (BMF's original proprietor) asked if he could use my model for advertising.

The car on the left looks like either a Renault or Peugeot - wow! Those were fairly rare in U.S.

Ah, America's Hobby Center. I never visited the store (sounds like a good thing), but I used to buy model trains from them in the '80s. They had good prices, but when you called to place the order (before online ordering) you spoke to some of the rudest women with heavy NY accent! Ah, those were the days . . .

Did you live in Northeast U.S.? Zayre department stores? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zayre I used to shop there too, along with Woolworth, Bradlees, Ames, Stewards, and Ann & Hope. All those store chains were likely killed off by Walmart. We also had several hobby shops inthe Boston area: Eric Fuchs (Boston and few other locations), Adventure Hobbies (in Arlington), Modeler's Junction (in Methuen), AAA Hobby Shop (in Wakefield) and few others. All gone.

Oops, sorry! It was unintentional. You were one of the early responders. I don't have a PM from you, but I do recall that you send me a PM. I must have accidentally deleted that PM thread! I don't do this often (and I also don't deal with PMs very often).

You mean like this: I get them too, from time to time. If you read up about caller ID, there is a logical explanation. There are 2 parts to caller ID. First is the phone number, which originates from at the caller's site and can be easily spoofed (I also receive calls showing my own number as calling myself!). Then the "name" comes from your phone service provider (your phone company). They basically look up the number and if there is a match in their database, they send it to be displayed on your phone. Some repeat offenders' numbers are marked as spam or illegal in their database, so they display as such. Here are the technical details about caller ID https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caller_ID , see the "Operaton" section for the details discussed here, and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caller_ID_spoofing

Has anybody else noticed the unusual wheels (the blue car photo clearly shows them). They remind me of the early Porsche or VW wheels. It is like they bolt directly to outside of a brake drum. IIRC, Pontiac also had similar wheels back in the late '60s.

Phew, I'm glad this one is over. Due to very sparse (and also conflicting) info, I decided to allow multiple answers to be correct. See the top post for explanation. List of members who correctly guessed the car in this quiz (in the order the guesses were received): VW93 carsntrucks4you otherunicorn sjordan2 Pete J. ChrisR blunc MrObsessive Thanks for playing!

Those photos bring back lots of nostalgic memories. Life was much simpler back then . . . No social media, no cyber-bullying, you ate dinner with the family in the dining room, and watched TV together. Time seemed to pass much slower than it does in today's hectic world.

Was it sold in U.S.?

Not just the parts count. If you saw the size of those parts, you would roll your eyes! I have a similar kit and some parts are smaller than the gates that hold the parts to the runners!! They are microscopic!

You need to give a bit more detailed description of what you end up with. "Trash" is not helpful. What is "hot or cold"? Epoxy doesn't set? Too thick of a layer? Need more info . . .

Looks good, but they forgot to Photoshop the right side/interior.

But it is not about the "food" - it is about the thrill of stalking the prey, right?

Not anything remotely close to 0.4mm overall diameter. That is about 0.016". 30 AWG wire-wrapping wire is about that diameter (including the insulation).

Main active ingredient in Castrol Super Clean is lye (Sodium Hydroxide), which is the same as in the original formula Easy-Off oven cleaner.

The above photo of the Revell's Viper reminded me what the problem was with its wheels: They are too shallow or flat! Especially the rear wheels. The wheel center should be inset deeper. Sort of what Revell did on the Starsky & Hutch Grand Torino.