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Everything posted by peteski
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Is this thread going to turn into another spray can vs. airbrush threads (we already have one going)? That one also started innocently, but then turned into a battle of spray cans and airbrushes. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/194131-buyer-beware/
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I wouldn't have thought that any TikTok users would be old or backward enough to actually still use personal checks you have to fill out with a pen and then cash.
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I think we have the sluggish forum problems solved
peteski replied to Dave Ambrose's topic in How To Use This Board
Yes, I just started browsing the forum and we are back to the extreme sluggishness from when the forum was being used to train some AI instance. It is not really usable. -
Union Pacific Big Boy 4014 steamed through my town today...
peteski replied to NitroMarty's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
And they worked pretty damn good for many decades, pulling long heavy trains and fast passenger trains, but compared to the later diesel locos they were really high-maintenance. Still, nothing today comes even close to the sound and look of pure power of a steam locomotive. Growing up in Poland and living next to a busy main line, I have seen plenty of steam locos going by. Nowhere near as large as the Big Boy, but they were still very impressive, spitting hissing steam and belching smoke, with the all the parts of the drivetrain constantly in motion. And the smell of steam, coal smoke, and hot oil is also unique. Unlike the sterile diesel and electric locos, steam engine was almost like live beast with a fire in its belly! -
Union Pacific Big Boy 4014 steamed through my town today...
peteski replied to NitroMarty's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
That Big Boy just oozes unadulterated power! Those were awe-inspiring machines, and railroads played a very large part in the country's economy. Back then men were men, and locomotives were steam-powered. I have couple of Big Boys in 1:160 scale, and even that small they are impressive looking. Here is one of my N scale Big Boys with a small British "Terrier" locos in front of it for size comparison. -
I suppose I do, since I take model "beauty shots" pretty much the length of the show. But those get submitted to model magazines for publication. We do post a dozen or so of my photos on the club's site (I posted a link to those in my last post).
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I have feeling that if you took some Tamiya clear red and mixed it with clear orange, you could get a color which is close to your original failed paint. To me it looks like it needs to be more red. Silver base coat will make the orange paler than a gold base coat.
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You beat me to the announcement John. Should be a good show (they're all good). For photos of previous shows check out http://classicplastic.org/photos.html
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Not sure if anybody already mentioned it, but I think that Eddie Van Halen's Eruption is pretty good.
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All this talk reminded me of my food irk: From time to time I enjoyed eating Hillshire Farm's Li'l Smokies or Li'l Polskas links. Those were very tasty little sausage links with a coarsely ground meat inside. I haven't had them for few years, and when I recently picked up a package and warmed them up I was in for a huge disappointment. They have totally changed their recipe. Instead of that moist coarsely ground filling, they are basically smoky flavored hot dogs. No more coarse ground, slightly greasy meat - they are filled with pink slime which has no texture at all. Another of my little pleasures is gone. Darn!
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I still chuckle that a thread with a very vague click-bait type of subject line, simply warning about a certain type of spray can primer has developed into a mega thread with over 150 replies so far (with many OT responses) and still going strong. Bravo! Fun stuff!
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Another PM? I find that humerus! Maybe Monty will spill the beans to all of us. I suspect I might know the reason for secrecy.
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Hmm, might be time to get one of those since I still have the older release from Revell without a windshield. That will make the build easier.
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I use spray cans and airbrush too. Nobody seems to understand what I'm trying to convey. There are modelers who are simply airbrush-averse. They don't own and don't want to own an airbrush because they say that airbrushes are too difficult and time consuming to clean. That is their whole excuse for not trying none.
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Any super glue (CA), especially thin viscosity CA should bond vinyl very well. Using accelerator helps too. But you have to make sure the glued surface are very clean (use 99% Isopropanol or Naphtha). There is also the adhesive used by plumbers to weld PVC (vinyl) pipes, but I would not recommend it (too stinky and messy).
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When someone tells me that they use spray cans because they don't want to deal with the hassle cleaning out the airbrush, to me that is lazy. Period. If you call this "an attitude", so be it. I guess you can argue about this 'til the cows come home. but I'm not changing my mind.
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I didn't specifically mean you, but I have seen many modelers use the excuse that airbrushes are too much hassle to use when a spray can is easy to deal with. Personally I think it is a poor excuse, but that is what they use. SUre you have to clean the airbrush (which usually involves shooting some lacquer thinner through it - no real hassle), but spray cans aren't perfect either. They can also clog, sometimes with no way to unclog them, and you have very little control of the paint and air pressure, which to me is important when spraying small objects (like model parts). Airbrush is like a scaled down spray gun, so it is perfect for painting miniatures. I used to use Testors and Pactra hobby spray cans in my earlier modeling years, but as my techniques advanced, I switched to airbrush. But when a task requires (for example spraying a body shell of a 1:8 scale model car), I will use a standard spray can of paint. For example I used a large spray can of black epoxy appliance enamel to paint a 1:8 Pocher Mercedes 340K. Using the right tool for a specific task usually gives optimal results.
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Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers
peteski replied to JayVee's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
To me 140 deg. F seems a bit too hot for comfort. I don't run mine for more than around 110-115 deg. Also, some formulations of polystyrene or ABS plastic (and urethane resins) can be more sensitive to temperature than others. -
I wonder if Atlantis added an actual molded windshield, or just give you a small piece of clear styrene sheet?
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Tutorial: Creating LED wiring harnesses for your builds.
peteski replied to Duddly01's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Now that makes sense (to someone who has been dealing with various LED-based designs, not just for models for over 40 years).