SfanGoch

Expand your modeling horizons. Being a one-trick pony can get boring.

Who could pass up listening to Bert Kaempfert's "That Happy Feeling" in its entirety? Bill, remember when Sandy Becker used it as the theme song for his show on WNEW Channel 5?

So, until we reopen...........

Thin coats, man. Don't get heavy handed with it. Better yet, Krylon clear gloss works great. You can use Microscale Micro-Sol and Micro-Set after the decals are cut and separated from each other.

It's your model and you can do as you wish. It really will be an exercise in futility. There isn't anything which can be done to restore it.

Dipropylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether isn't sold in retail sized amounts. It's sold in large containers for commercial/industrial use as an additive to cosmetics. soaps, etc. Get Testors ELO from Active Powersports. Great price. Forget Wally World. It's priced over 100% more there. It really works better stripping paint than any of that cheenchy-meenchy purple pond/ultra awesome/oven cleaner BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. No need to soak for days or weeks. Brush it on, wait twenty minutes and start scrubbing the lifted paint off.

Like the others said, chalk it up as a loss. It's not that the urethane used was bad. There is no need to ever submerge resin parts in order to clean them, especially in solvents. IPA, and other solvents, is absorbed and breaks down the resin when a resin object is submerged for a prolonged period of time. Brushing on alcohol on the surface, then scrubbing the parts with a nylon bristle brush followed by washing and rinsing in warm water is sufficient. I keep recommending Testors Easy Lift Off to strip paint from styrene and resin parts; but, it seems like I'm talking to myself. Just brush a coat (NEVER EVER submerge any plastic or resin in it. It isn't necessary.) of ELO on the parts and, in about 20 minutes, the paint will start to wrinkle. The paint can be removed by scrubbing it off, followed by washing the parts in warm water and dishwashing detergent. If there is any remaining paint, repeat the procedure.

That leaves only Jerry Mathers and Tony Dow from the cast of "Leave It To Beaver". Ken Osmond, ‘Leave It to Beaver’ Star Who Played Eddie Haskell, Dies at 76

Scale Finishes doesn't sell canned paint.

Why don't you just get Butternut Yellow from Scale Finishes? It's available for 1967 and 1968 (Code Y) and 1969 (Code 40). Unless you're using a can of touch up paint specifically in that color, attempting to match it with standard rattle can products or generic hobby paints can be an exercise in futility, not to mention a PITA process of trial and error.

I remember him when he portrayed Jerry Hubbard, Barth Gimble's (Martin Mull) sidekick on Fernwood Tonight.

Airfix 1/48 B-57B It was mailed on April 30 and has been sitting in the Jersey City Network distribution Center since May 6. I'm going to get Airfix A10101 English Electric Canberra B.2/B.20/B.62/B(1)6 in order to model one of the eight B-57As accepted by the USAF in 1951. I'm having a PITA time trying to find both of the DMold Modelworks B-57B and B-57G Forward Fuselage resin sets I sent the owner, Dmitri Malkov, an email a while back; but, he hasn't replied as of yet. These are fantastic looking sets.

Darin Bastedo had a thread about kitbashing '55-'57 Bel Airs using the roof from the Revellogram '56 Nomad. Unfortunately, all of the photos are gone.

Good ole New York City-style pepper and egg hero.

Big deal, a discussion goes off topic. The end of order and Western civilization as we know it. As pointed out, that's the natural state of affairs in real life. Besides, temporarily drifting off topic about, oh, let's say for argument's sake , a fifty year old kit that's been that's been discussed ad nauseam, breaks the monotony, just like talking with friends.

The story about when Rock 'N Roll was "banned in Boston" in 1958 The Nobles, a group from New Haven, even recorded a song about the incident.

i have to agree with you, Scott. Some of those FB model related pages are just too ponderous to wade through and painful to read. It's an ordeal just to find out if the guy is actually selling stuff or even find a price list for/detailed description of pictured items.

This is a great kit, Bill. I have three of the Testors HSO kits and two original motorized Hawk 206 releases. Lone Star Models produces Cobra Company's (Bought the company, BTW) H-43 Kaman Huskie Detail Set LE-01. LSM closes its store site down regularly in order to catch up with casting for orders.; so, if you're interested in getting the set, check the site regularly.

Doug, do you remember Fortune Records, aka "The Treasure Chest of Musty Dusties"? The label was located at 3942 Third Ave. Nolan Strong & The Diablos recorded their classic, "The Wind" for Fortune in 1954.

That too.

Interesting suggestions offered, Greg. However, applying liquid cement on multiple layers of styrene of the type used by Evergreen and Plastrruct has its own set of problems. The styrene used is a different formulation than "standard" kit material. It's softer. This styrene also tends to stay softer after applying liquid cement to bond multiple pieces of the same for a long time after bonding. Use plastic .020-.030" rod instead. Being that it's round, it possesses better ductility than square or flat strip. It can be conformed to fit on compound curves as found on and around a car roof. The rod also can be, if required, sanded flat after it is attached. As far as trying to wrap .020”x.125” styrene strip around a 1/4" inch dowel, my question is why? First of all. .020" thick strips are too thick to be bent around a round shape without breaking. Applying liquid cement or heating the strips isn't practical for the aforementioned reasons. The most logical approach would be to use styrene tube with an inner diameter slightly larger than the part you want to wrap. It can be cut to the proper height easily, doesn't leave a seam around its circumference and won't break. But hey, if you think that layering and bonding or bending work better for you, zei gezunt

Just my two cents, I was disappointed in the quality of MPC annuals, and kits in general, from 1976 forward. Definitely more toy-like than scale model. I guess it was those cheesy graphic decals that made me feel this way.

From what I see in the photos, the casting quality looks good. Smooth, thin and no discernible surface blemishes. I won't really know until I get it in my hands, though.

Since there was only one other bid on this resin '67 Fury, I got it cheap. I wasn't about to blow a wad on an original Johan kit.

This is a 1961 Starliner hardtop. Sunliners and Skyliners (production ended after the 1959 MY) were convertibles.