stitchdup

we've got a neighbour that has no idea how to control her dog. 3 times this week she has stood doing goldfish impressions while her mutt attacks ours and the neighbours cats. She got annoyed with me cos i threw a bucket of water over the dog cos i wasn't reaching past an aggrasive pit to rescue tha cats as i like my hands being useful. all the idiot needs to do is keep it on the lead. I sorta hope the dog goes after the local farmers sheep because he wont hesitate to shoot it dead. I believe the dog was a rescue which may explain why its how it is as most pits i know are pretty docile animals but this one is just dangerous

extinction level event was a lackluster movie

I only have a half a dozen non volkswagens and they are all 1/24 maisto except for a 1/1? chevy 59 impala. all my other diecast are vw and i dont have any preference to quality or brand with those. as long as its something vw group I'll buy it. I've got vws in many scales and recently got a box of goodies from a member here containing a load of canadian vw toys. condition doesn't matter to me with the vw stuff either as its all about the subject matter and to me toys can have patina too. Its part of the toys history but I'm not against modding them. A future project will be a melding a diecast bentley convertible with a plastic toy of the hard top.

uhu glue. I bought 3 tubes of it to use on my dio and while they have the same batch number, only one of them has been any use. the first tube stuck stuff hard enough to keep working in a fairly short time fram, while the other 2 tubes are complete garbage that just makes a tacky mess that dont go off. So after cleaning most of the mess off I went for araldite epoxy but it caused a reaction between it, superglue and the uhu to the point that my glue dish started smoking!! Trying pva now so fingers crossed

9 years early isn't much in car design. The vw EV vans design has been shared by vw for nearly 20 years and its only recently been releasd for sale. It has been interesting to see the vw t4 design morph through the different versions so there hasn't been a jump in design, more of a gentle flow from one design to the next

that sorta defeats the purpose of having your name on your model, and the magazines dont blur names

Something i've been gathering parts for, for quite a while. The base shed was made by my dad 40 years ago and will be getting skinned with coffee stirrers. Since the rebuilt wall turned out to be no too bad I've decided to redo the one side and roof in the same way. For the too thick walls I'll just make sure to hide the thickness. I'm planning to have a car being built and an unfinshed project in the shed with the coe under a lean to on the side of the shed. I will be doing my dry stone wall around the bottom of the lean to

more pics here, some might be some help https://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_19429-Ford-Pinto-Wagon-1977.html

I purchased a kit for nail art using transfer foils. I'm still trying to work out the timings for the glue so my attempts so far have been less than stellar but it looks like it has some possibilities. I didn't use a black base under these so the plastic colour is showing through. I'm going to keep experimenting with this as i thik it would be a great base for candy paints

on some of the boxes it says its harry bradleys luxury sports car

if you used black primer it would work for modern car emblems since most of them are plastic backed

very convincing

i'm in scotland, my doctor is paid by the state

I'll just go to my socialist doctor to get my socialist meds from the socialiat pharmacist and it wont cost me my house or a lifetime of debt...

I use this site to find out what to rescale with. http://www.scalemodelersworld.com/online-scale-converter-tool.html I also download free files of wheels the size i want so i can use them to check the sizes before printing. sometimes you do just have to guess though

any household bleach, ten mins and the chrome will be mostly gone, it wont touch the primer under the chrome though so if you want it gone you need a normal stripper. as a bonus you can use the leftover bleach to clean the toilet afterwards and keep the missus happy

I've found the gauzy can gunk up your sand paper pretty quickly, but if your paint under it has a solid hold on the primer you can try an ordinary soft pencil eraser on the affected parts. the gauzy should rub off if you dont press down too hard and since its self levelling it will be an easy touch up. Also the gauzy cannot be overcoated with acrylic auto paints, its will crease up and crack.

got the inside all weathered up, I'll add some mosses later before gluing the roof on. Speaking of which , i made the roof in the same way as the sides. I dont think i have enough coffee stirrers to cover the roof but I'll think of something, maybe a patch over a hole or something or i might just do it as rusty bare steel.

How would a box body be attached to a chassis. Do they have brackets that mount on the frame or is it something else? The truck I'm building is custom with patina and i want it to keep some original features and in my mind the body mounts would be something they would retain as they are under the truck and already hold the body. The chassis its on is nowhere near stock so there will be no interferance issues and i know which areas i need to keep clear for the suspension but i can work around those areas with no issues.

try starting with diamond files, then 240 grit once the files have a few scratches in the resin. sandpaper seems to glide across the prints until theres something for it to bite on but once it starts it takes very little time to get it smoothed

I guess its gonna be an old ice truck. I'm not sure what they woud have been lined with originally so i went for more wood and will weather it the same way. I didn't have any quarter round plastic the correct size so i found some dowelling that will do the job

A little more progress today. I assembled the chassis but it just looked flimsy and not something the ral thing would have so I bulked up the side rails with some styrene box section. I didn't do anything with the crossmembers as I still need to work out what back will be on it. I figure whatever it is would have been wooden when it was built so whatever back i eventually decide will need a floor. I used araldite epoxy to glue coffee stirrers in varying lengths to an old trailer flatdeck then roughed them up a bit with 40 grit sandpaper. Next i took a soggy teabag and stained the wood, before again taking 40 grit and giving another light sanding followed by charcoal rubbed pretty hard into the wood and then rubbing with kitchen paper to get rid of most of it. I'll be giving this a hit with the 40 grit and various different stains and paints multiple more times until i get the age I want. The aim with the 40 grit isn't to flat it but to put in places for the other stuff to collect and look more aged as old wood warps and splits so i hope this has that look

I build at an old computer desk. I have tubs that fit under the bench for unfinished builds. The keyboard tray I have glued plastic to the back and now use it for most of my files and sanding sticks. small paints are in 2 drawers in an old set of drawers from a nurses home and i have 2 cupboard units from the same source that hold my flocking, some spray paints and my booth sits on top of them. My drill bits and smaller tools are in a small container thats molded into the keyboard drawer and i have 2 pint glasses for my brushes, one for clean and one for dirty. Now while i have a spot for everything, most of the time tools i use the most just dont get put back. I also have a travel set of tools that is in a resin box that includes doubles of many of my tools. To be honest much of my model room looks like a hoarder house with just a track from the door to my chair but its just how i feel comfortable working.