stitchdup

NO POLITICS

awesome, you made it look far better than the description

if you search for talbot horizon you might get more options. thats what it was called in europe and i'm sure i've seen bodies for them. the farmer next me when i was a kid owned one

have a look at the seatbelts in your car. a different style but the basics are the same and its much easier than trying to explain it.

you can get slower setting liquid for it. I have 2, 5 and 10 minute setting times for the ones i use. the ten minute stuff can be worked while still soft using stainless tools and as luck would have it they are on amazon for not much money

if you cant find that part, replicas and miniatures do a couple of nice versions

burn the nylon with a lighter, it wont take much heat to melt the nylon then it wont catch on corrosion.

rambling post could spell problems for the postie

this seems like a you two conversation, if you want to carry it on go to pm please. theres enough drama outside

or an extreme close up of my thumb when i get out of a hot bath

but how do they sell the extended parts and labour warranties if you can fix it at home. its the only real chance car makers have to grab you into a subscription. they saw tesla do it and now they are desperate to do it too cos its like free money. the customer no longer matters, you'll just take what your given and like it is policy now

swap the airbox for an aftermarket cone filter, it makes the lights much easier to work on. you can find the bulbs cheaper if you go to a hella dealer as they use the same bulb in some of their own brand spot lights

project posture potatoes persephone porpoise pontiac are the wrong 6 ps for a sucessful outcome

1999 renault laguna. passenger headlight blown. bought in 2002 for £750 as an mot(roadworthiness test) failure. figured how hard can it be to replace a bulb. to get to the headlight i had to remove the front bumper, radiator, intercooler, top end of the exhaust and the airbox and pretty much everything in between. spent 30 seconds swapping the bulb. i put it through a test and sold it for 6k a week later and gave the guy i bought it from another thousand to make myself feel better. just the lightbulb took 18 hours but that cars still a local taxi today.

if its a resin kit start your rounds of primer with a good high build primer. mask of any of the finer detail, then give it a coat or 2. block it back starting at 400 w'n'd, prime again and work up the grades of w n d until you get to around 800 or 1000 then its just repeat until your happy. you can do the lower grits a few times before building up and i like the tamiya sponges for first prep on the bodies. sometimes just the sponges are enough to prep the lower striations but i'll still use this method each time too. if its one of terrible nylon prints from shapeways you have lots and lots of work to do and the best advice i can give on those bodies is chuck them away and find a resin print. the nylon does not cut, sand, file or play nice in any way edit- I've used duplicolor auto acrylics with tamiya without problems. just give it an extra day or 2 between paint types.

fudge packer was genuinely one of my previous job titles but could be deemed offensive without context which in this case was placing fudge into boxes

personally i only use ca on resin and prints. I prefer poly cement for plastic. and glue for clear parts is also a must. most ca and polystyrene glues will fog clear parts

uscp-ua.com

never drink half a tin of red bull, it gives you wing

I'd replace them, most of my 90s tamiya tyres went hard then fell apart. If you plan to change the wheels anyway it might make it an easier swap

they hide it inside the alpha model kit site https://www.alphamodelkit.com/

there is a metal kit. i saw this one at a show but i know nothing else about it other than probably expensive and hard ti find. I base that on the guys other entries all being large scale euro cars. sorry about the poor pic, folk just kept pushing in the way so i grabbed a quick one as i had a boat to catch

glue a circle of p80 to the end of a pencil then twist it between your fingers keeping it centred. you can also put some on the sharp end to speed up the start, you can put it in a drill but it just gunks up. dont make the sand paper too big or it can damge the rim. i have tried cutting them by razor sawing through half the rim but i prefer sandpaper now as you can check fit as you go to nail where the wheel sits in the arch and i often add circles to the pins on taniya for the same reason. tamiya to fujimi is much simpler, evergreen have the ideal size tube for both sides .

I'd put it under the body style. if its car body put it under cars a pick up/van under light commercial and so on.

pie slices are useful when chopping our models