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stitchdup

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Everything posted by stitchdup

  1. just use a large pointed stick. jam it deep and give it a wiggle and you can just drop the bulb in
  2. My mate printed up a jig for the aoshima trailer for me on his pla printer and its not that far from resin quality now. his machine was new this year and while there are still layer lines its nothing like his old machine. its not 0.03 resin smooth but it is about 0.05 quality. His machine seems mush less tempremental than the old one too
  3. The methos Bainford desribes also works using enamel paints if they are gloss or satin. I find acrylic and matt enamels dont give any working time
  4. its a 12 hour job to replace the bulbs in a renault laguna. the front bumper and a load of bottles, pipes and cables have to come off just to get to the headlight bolts and they put the computer behind the front offside bumper grille to be sure all the dirt hits it. just swapping one of the hard plastic air intake pipes for a removable hose would make it a 10 minute job
  5. the mini might be too wide for the renault, i'd look for something with an inline engine just to make it easier on yourself. even just the mini engine is wider than the renault hood and thats without the gearbox, rad or suspension. you might find it better to just flip the renault pan front to back and adapt the front suspension to the engine end
  6. feather boas are a safe snake for infants
  7. i advise getting the biggest machine that you can. you'll eventually want to print your own bodies too
  8. or theres always "honey i sold em and bought a hyabusa and helmet laws suck"
  9. since its not an aircooled vw i dont care about whose engines in it (and even with the aircooled stuff i'm not really that bothered since theres a mazda rotary going in a bug at some point and 2 suburu ones in progress), lol
  10. hoping to finish this over the next couple of days. everything is printed from files by nitrolab3d or the parts are available from blackbox to fit the revell kit. this is 1/24 scale
  11. easy tuning mainly. use the honda engine and suspension and you get the whole japanese aftermarket doing parts whereas with the chevy you are limited as its just not that popular for tuning.
  12. Cool, I've always prefered the evos to the scoobies. they just look tougher
  13. all the stuff i've had from them was cast resin.
  14. I like that more than i probably should. It could make for a fun ride with a japanese v6 of some sort. maybe toyota using one of the conversion kit for the mr2 so you can swap the whole suspension too and open up a world of aftermarket tuning parts but even the stock 280hp would be fun. It would live up to its french nickname then, lol
  15. the rounded things on the bottom sprue are for spreading putty and getting it smoothed on concave curves like you see on older kustoms. if you are molding in fenders they work great
  16. a tub big enough to put the kit inside (sometimes they get bashed in transit so why risk losing your work) and an organiser box for small parts and completed assemblies. a set of washable sanding sticks are handy too. I used to prime everything before taking to work and only did brush painted stuff there. i wouldn't take photo etch as its just too easy to lose. i'd just get cheap brushes for traveling with, theres no guarentee you'll get them cleaned and you can get packs of 50 small nail art brushes for ten bucks on amazon (look for white and purple handles). a second scriber is useful but depending on your knife you might get scriber and saw blades for it which saves carrying a tool. a photo film container is handy for blades too and masking tape. really the best way to decide what you need is to sit down with a kit and see what it needs. while we have lots of tools, i'd bet most of us use the same few most of the time and it might surprise you how few we actually lose. women have shoes, we have tools, lol
  17. thats what i did when i worked on the boat. i recommend a small cutting mat as part of the travel set. i ended up with 2 of most things but thats not a bad thing. really all i was lacking was light.
  18. the headlights are canted inwards at the top is the most obvious but the front bumper looks too tall or narrow too as the 1/1 wheels have a lower profile tyre/bigger rim yet they both match in where they line up so the model has to be wrong. its almost like the hood is too tall or round in the centre too but that could just be the angle of the pic. do you have another brand kit you could compare it with? it would help see where it off at. it would be a lot of fiddly work to fix the lights as it might mean altering the whole front end to line them up as pretty much everything from the screen down would need slight alterations to keep it all lined up. i can measure up a tamiya 996 the morn if thats a help?
  19. theres files for them on cults. they vary from free up to 100 bucks. i dont know how the quality of them is as its just things that have popped up in searches
  20. for the bigger scale stuff you're really better off with your own printer. you can probably pick up a used one for about the same as you'll pay for 2 sets of wheels. I've done printing for folk but i'm in scotland so postage would rule me out as that could be $40 on its own.
  21. but you might also get to see a volcano erupt! and it wont affect the whole coast, at worst you miss a couple of fjords and at best you see a volcano erupt from somewhere safe
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