BigTallDad

Out of sight, out of mind.

Does the drill have a Jacob's chuck or does it require the standard 1/8" shank? I use a pin vise with a 1/8" shank, thus allowing a variety of drill bit sizes.

I prefer using Pearl Ex [sp?] for the few metallic paint jobs I do.

What's even funnier (pardon the pun) is that Arnie Beswick was also known as the "pig farmer" yet the artwork shows cows. I saw him racing at the local drag strip 50 or so years ago. An ingenious man, it is rumored he mated a clutch/pressure plate to an automatic tranny to give his cars better performance out of the hole yet never missing a shift.

Yep, Them's some ugly boxes! Why not show some pictures of the built models from those boxes, demonstrating how that model could/should have been used for the box art?

Very impressive shots! As a matter of personal preference, I find the vein in the black granite is distracting...maybe some black mirrored Plexiglas instead?

All of a sudden (and without me doing anything at all) the images are showing. Nice work! I'm sure you already have it, but here's a link for vehicles in movies. http://www.imcdb.org/ The site lets you search by name of movie or by vehicle.

Nope. All I see is 2v2uezLUgxJcANd.jpg And here is my version of the good guys car on the left in the photo. Psrts box wheels and tires....same for flathead parts. Tamiya navy blue paint and I made the tags.

I can't see the images.

I use .177 caliber air-rifle BBs, available at Walmart. In small bottles of paint, they work better than the glass marbles and taking the BB or two out of the container is easier than opening up a (hopefully) depleted rattle can. Opening the can, however, is still better and safer than another approach I've seen mentioned on the forum: opening live shotgun shells and using the shot from them.

Do you want the lights to be functional, as in periodically changing?

I think I'd prefer to see a photo of a completed kit, rather than an artist's rendering.

Absolutely stellar paint, and the rest of the model matches the paint job! Opening the grille was also a great approach; did you sand off the backside of the grille to do it?

Seriously...do you have a small vacuum that uses a hose? Place a sock (with no holes) over the outside of the hose end and tape it in place, leaving about four inches of the sock dangling off the end. Turn the vac on, which will suck the loose end of the sock into the inside of the hose; the sock now acts as a filter, catching (hopefully) parts that are in the area being vacuumed. Good luck.

Quite the opposite. Walk around in your bare feet...when you feel pain, you've found it (or another lost part).

How 'bout posting some pictures of them?

Do you support the athletes that take a knee when the National Anthem is played? I'm not ashamed to say I'm proud of my DD214 and Armed Forces Expeditionary Medal.

In 1993 Oldsmobile had a color called Bright White, and my Cutlass had that color. I once parked it next to a '91 white Cutlass and mine was significantly brighter than the '91. Obtaining that '93 color (good luck on that) might be a good starting point.

C'mon, you're kidding about this being your first model...that's some very excellent workmanship, especially the dashboard.

Very nicely done. especially the engine compartment. Thanks for your service.

Hopefully, the acid won't slowly leak out and mess up your paint or glue connections. Next time, use a solid-core (no flux, be it acid or resin) solder.

If you're using solder, make sure it isn't acid-core flux.

Very nice recovery! It seems somewhat contradictory that a top-of-the-line car would have dog-dishes.

I agree! What did you use for the "wood"? Paint, real wood, decal? Also, are there any interior shots?

Take it back to the store and get a new one.