TarheelRick

Glad to see a real steel hot rod. May not be original steel, but at least it is steel.

IMHO that was an issue that needs to be addressed. The tables were so close together and close to the walls it was difficult for people to get to the tables. If one person stopped to look at a selection it would often block the aisleway. I realize the more vendors there are the more revenue the club can make on table rental, however there is the ability for the vendors to conduct business that is also important. Even with the tight area I had a pretty good time. After cost of room, table, etc., I made a few bucks, even won a model at the raffle. Didn't get much time to look at the models, although I did make a quick run through and saw Topher's display - the Aero Coupe caught my attention.

https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/mpc-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/plymouth/1971-1980/ One of these may get you in the ballpark.

Coming along mighty fine, really enjoying this WIP.

Had great trades with Steamboat and gbtr6, would trade with them anytime.

😲 Nothing more to say, that is some fabulous work. Two of my favorites are the purple Chevelle and the Sox & Martin pro-mod, of course the rest are truly beautiful to look at also.

Excellent work, some really meticulous detailing. I would say beautiful, but in my simple mind, all Fords are beautiful. I guess this one is beautifuler. I know that is not a real word, but it depicts my thoughts of this build.

Salisbury is not a show it is strictly a swap meet, and a fairly extensive one. It is usually held in February.

Dad's '57 Chevrolet wagon was built that way. I regurgitated back there a couple of times before I got used to riding backwards. He also had an early 60's Rambler sedan he used on his mail route that had a fold down front seat back. It could be laid all the way back to the rear seat to make a semblance of a bed. The perfect date car for a teenage boy.

Glad you mentioned Salisbury, I had forgotten it is coming up next month. Could you PM me the vendor information, please.

More than likely they will also run a raffle for kits, parts, and other stuff. The money made at the raffle goes to the club to help toward expenses, so save a couple bucks for tickets. Who knows you may win a kit. I will be there with a vendor table. Will be wearing a USAF hat, so drop by and say hello.

Some most excellent work. I keep looking back at that engine and am waiting for you to service it and crank that puppy up. With that much detail in the engine I can only imagine what lies ahead with interior, chassis, and body work, you have already shown the wheel/tire assemblies.

Thanks for this in-depth tutorial. I enjoy tinkering with photography, and this has further piqued my interest. Years ago, I attempted to do something similar with my state-of-the-art Yaschica TL Electro-X SLR but waiting for film developing and immediately noticing visual mistakes put a kink in my plans. This may push me into getting more enthused about realistic looking model photos.

Nice couple of Chevys Sam. That two-tone really fits the Sedan Delivery well. Are my old eyes playing tricks on me or is the SD chopped? That windshield sure is long and laid back.

A suggestion to help prevent bleed-through is to spray the tape line with clear or in this case the red body color. That seals the tape seam and prevents the second color from bleeding under the tape.

Going to be an interesting project. IDK, sitting on top of a fuel tank in a car with wooden floorboards, racing on a wooden track, is just a bit more adventurous than I want to be. Looking forward to updates.

I just noticed they also sell Hoosier tires, although they may be a bit big for the '64 Mercury.

PM sent.

PPP sells the wheels and tires you need, although their tires are either Firestone or Goodyear. As far as the extended studs, you will have to do those yourself using some Plastruct/Evergreen styrene rod. The valve stem is simply a piece of small gauge wire inserted into a drilled hole and painted black. The PPP (Plastic Performance Products) line of product is available on several different sites. Here is one source Plastic Performance Parts.

Amazing how something as simple as a proper radiator cap can add so much to an engine bay. Thanks for the tutorial.

Glad to see this one back on the table. Keep those updates coming. Are you going to remove the radio knobs and light switch from the dash?

I built my first model Christmas morning 1959, actually a couple of days later after I had a chance to go to town and buy some glue. For cutting I used my Dad's coping saw, broke a few blades which did not make him very happy. Never had a pin vise, had to hold the bits in my fingers. Did not do a lot of detail work, but did try the sewing thread pulled through a candle for plug wires - read about it in "Rod & Custom Cars & Models" magazine. I used whatever sandpaper Dad had laying around the house. Mostly used the Testors tube glue, small bottles of paint (some PLA), and their awful putty which would shrink and pin hole like crazy. I think I did get an X-Acto knife kit fairly early in my building years, probably after Mom got tired of me using her kitchen knives. It was all fun, now I look at my building table and wonder where all those tools that I never use came from.

Be sure the package says "Fine" instead of "Medium".

Very nicely done, used to see a lot of this style trailer around the farm community where I grew up. What did you use for an axle, most I've seen used the truck rear axle.

Received six promos I had won from an on-line auction. Back row is a '93 Dodge Stealth, '94 & '95 Mustangs, front row '79 El Camino, '75 Mustang II, '77 Vette. I am going to keep some and put the rest into my for-sale/trade box.