Chariots of Fire

Thanks for the tip, Greg. Will check it out. I'll take the buck. Clerks will probably wonder what I'm doing!?

Got the elves back to work with a little coaxing but I'm still not happy with some of their stuff. The windshield pieces still bug me as to why I can't seem to get a clear vacu form of it. It has to be the buck not being perfectly smooth as it always tends to be a bit cloudy. The pieces are in place but are removable so I may try again. Interior continues to come along. The doors are nearly done and only need the latches and the new glass sections. Then I can snip off the excess pins in the hinges. Each inside door panel is aluminum. It will get a latch and grab handle before being completed. The right side has a ventilation panel that was made with a piece of sheet aluminum and a decal to represent the openings. The real one is a series of arrow cutouts and the letters XT. This cab is the "Arrow" that Pierce put out a short while ago. It's no longer being made as they have moved on to other designations. One more project to complete the steps on each side. But the interior needs to be set in place first. Also the wheel well surrounds need to be chromed up. The back cab diamond plate panel is now dressed in embossed aluminum foil that was set with 2 part epoxy.

In that case I think it would be easy enough to cut a piece of plastic that would fit the opening and glue it in. You can build up the A post and trim with some strip stock and then with some putty clean up the seams. It seems a shame to ruin another model kit just for such a small area.

You didn't say if you have the missing piece or not. If you do I'd suggest gluing it back in and then just cleaning up the edges. '

Let me consult mit der elves. Perhaps dey vil share der secret.?

I'm still not seeing the responses to my posts even though it gives me a notice at the top of the page that there is one. Sometimes the response is just a heart image. Other times; nothing. Is there something I need to fix? It doesn't happen to all responses, just some. At other times they show up days later. Could use your help.

Got a bit of paint on the cab but there are a few small places that need some touchup. I used Duplicolor #398 red and Duplicolor Standard Black over Duplicolor gray primer. I painted the black directly over the red without any problems. The corner at the color line needs a small amount of straightening but that may be taken care of with a separation stripe. Not sure without looking if the actual truck has one. The back of the cab will get a full piece of aluminum embossed foil as a covering.

You did a great job on that truck! Super all the way around!?

The Providence, Rhode Island truck is made from the same Monogram kit used in this post. I extended the cab and added the extra doors. The body was modified to look like the Providence rig.

The suggestions above are all great. Done my own versions of them from time to time. One thing I try to remember, though, is that if the detail cannot be seen on the finished model, most of the time it is not worth the effort to try and construct. That is unless it is simply for one's personal satisfaction of knowing it is there. In the latter case that is what really counts!?

They are a mix from various sources. The Trumpeter kit dash was used in part as well as portions of an old resin casting of a computer keyboard. The instrument panel in front of the driver was made from ALPS printed decals and a scratch built surround.

I've used that shirt collar plastic before and you are right! It works! Haven't bought a new shirt in a long time. Do they still use the plastic??? Here's an update on how the doors were constructed. First the 0.016" brass sheet. Then 0.040x0.10 strip stock around the edges. Then 0.020x0.060 strip stock on top of that leaving a ledge inside for the clear plastic to sit on. Last the full sheet to make up the inside panel of the door. Holes for the door latches were opened in the brass but I had to cut away the back panel in order to use files to clean up the holes. The plastic panels were then filled in and sanded smooth. The last photo shows the door in the clamp and the slot that the clear stock slides into from the bottom of the door. The piece of strip stock at the bottom of the window opening is 0.040x0.100 without the edging. The rear doors have a permanent piece of clear above the strip that runs from side to side. The opening portion of the window ends there.

Mr. Sheehy!? Glad to hear from you. Hope all is well. Any progress on your IH?? Or was it a Dodge? Memory fails me!! Here are some updates of progress as of today. The interior door panels have been finished and the interior tub has been painted. Some of the detailing there is done but there's lots to go. The "glass" can be removed for painting by sliding them out of the bottom of the door. The windows can be left open, partially open or closed all the way. The windshield was vacu-formed but I need some advice on how to keep the PETG clear. It seems to haze up some and cannot be polished out. Could it be that the buck I made is not smooth enough?

Did you happen to do anything to the primer coat on this one that you did not do on the first 4? It almost looks like there was a wax like coating on the surface that caused the paint not to smooth out.

I'm sorry that it is not. AITM was doing resin castings but the master is no longer available for casting and AITM is out of business.

Going to have to put all of these great suggestions in my file for the next time. The brass tubing is already soldered to the edges of each door so it's either nickel plate the edges of the door or do the Molotow thing after the doors are painted. Will keep all posted with the results. I just put some primer on the inner tub and finished up the cab interior sheeting. The rest is now painting and adding decals and touchup to all of the gages and switches.

Nicely done, Warren! Great color and some very nice details. Clean 'n neat!!

No, Sir. Haven't thought of that. I'll catalog the info for the next build, though! Many thanks.

Not sure about soldering them to the brass doors, Peter. Have never done that. Will surely look into the information you included though! Thanks!

The one concern I have with BMF in this case is that it would be very narrow and subject to tearing with the movement of the tubing it would be covering. The tubing sits flush with the cab surface as it is.

The trick on those hinges, Bob is that they are supposed to be chromed! Not quite sure how that will get done. Nickel plating is one option. Painting with a Molotow Pen is another. Will see how things go.

Been a few days since the last posting. It has taken some time to refine the fit of the interior tub, to temporarily lock the side and front in position for doing the doors and get things lined up. The doors have been cut from 0.016" brass sheet stock. The hinged part is 0.018" diameter brass tubing with a stainless steel pin that sits inside. At each end of the hinge, a small piece of receiving stock is inserted in the cab sides. Each small piece has a drilled out hole the same as the hinge tube. The steel pin slides into position with the receiving pieces glued in place after the door placement is set. For the rear doors a hole was drilled in the bottom of the fender and a similar brass tube was inserted and glued in place. The steel pin is inserted up through the bottom of the fender into the door and then up into the small receiver at the top of the cab. There is a bit of finishing work that needs to be done now with pieces added to thicken up the doors and provide for a small rare earth magnet that will help keep the doors closed. While it looks like there is a lot of glass area in the rear doors, there is a divider in the upper half that sits inside the opening. That will be provided once the door thickness is finished. The door glass will be slipped into position after the doors have been painted. Slots will be kept open at the bottom of each door to allow the glass to slide in. There will be steps at the bottom of each door that will enclose the body and that has to be worked out ahead of time. The pencil line below the windshield gives a hint as to where the black over red paint separation line will be.

Had this issue for a while now. At the top of the page is tells me that I have a response to my posts. However when I look at my post the response is not there. Some never seem to get added to the post no matter how long after the response has been up.

Nice work! And a unique choice for a truck build. Rockford is right. Typical US trash truck chassis but perhaps without the second steering axle.

How about cutting the crossbar inside the frame and just leaving enough that you could slide a piece of tube on like a washer that you could glue to the frame. Would that give the mudflaps sufficient strength?