Chariots of Fire

Here's a look at how to save on the amount of elastic used to create a full hose load. First build a box of card stock or plastic stock that fills most of the hose bed. Leave enough of the sides showing something like in the photo below. Cut small lengths of sewing elastic, glue and double them over to look like the ends of the folded hose. That's a 1/32 scale Monogram fire body in the photo and I'm using 1/8" elastic that has been stained to look like cotton jacket hose. When the short sections fill the back of the bed even with the box, begin to lay full sections of elastic over the whole thing in a couple of layers. I'd advise painting the top of the box the same color as the elastic so that the white doesn't show through. You'll notice that there are brass couplings on the hose. They are made using brass tubing with the grooves made with an SK tubing cutter. When the bed is full it will look something like this. This is a different rig than the Monogram Mack but the same principle was used to create a full hose load. The LDH is 3M tape folded in 3rd's to simulate synthetic hose. There is also some sewing piping used for the red hose. Don't forget to dirty it up a bit. Even when cleaned, the hose will retain some of the black staining and dirt left from operating in a fire situation.

You might want to check on the overall size and heaviness of the materials. A lighter design would (IMHO) make it look like it fits the truck better.?

Those are all great suggestions. Don't forget those little vents right behind the door handles. They can be made using a fine black marker. Also use 1/8" sewing elastic for the cross lays and 1/4" sewing elastic for the 2-1/2" supply and heavy working lines in the hose bed. I'll post a tutorial on how to make the interior of the hose bed that will save a lot of that sewing elastic.

Now that's a method I would not have guessed! Looks like it is really going to work well!

Hi, Paul. Is the pencil sketch of the wrecker boom to the scale you intend?

That is some fine work! It's clear that you are an experienced modeler with some exceptional skills! Will keep watching to see what you end up with.

Here's what it looks like painted up.

Hey, Brian. Give us your take on the overall quality of the cab casting. It looks clean from here but a bit on the heavy side.

I'll check on the wheels for sure. The modified ones are now on the truck and secured in place. Work has been on the cab interior with the dashboard, controls and seats being finished up. Today I took a break from the truck build and made a Garand M1 for the cab. Still has to be painted and it needs a scabbard to put it in but it's ready. The brown paper strip beside it will be the sling strap after the painting is finished. The steering wheel is dark red but needs toning down. In late version deuces they used wood to save on regular steering wheel materials for other uses. The rifle is 43.5 mm long (the real one is 43.6") and is made of plastic strip stock, wire and brass stock.

I love it! It's nice when things come together!?

I've had a few tires and wheels done in 3D just to get patterns done. Then the rest is casting multiples from there. 3D printing has its place just like everything else in the hobby. Being a scratch builder, I use just about anything that fits the need.

The trick will be securing it tight against the sides. Aluminum doesn't like some adhesives. Two part epoxy, maybe, but not CA.

I just re-read what I wrote. Wow! Where's the automatic grammar correction when you need it!!!?

Keep doing things one at a time and you won't be overwhelmed with the project. I once read that doing every little piece as if it were a model unto itself helps to keep things in perspective.

What a pain it has been to get the tires and wheels right on this build!? The original set, although ok, were way to wide, making the overall width of the model well over the 88" it should be. The wheels were also to wide, making the spacing between rear tires even worse. So I set out to cast new tires using the old mold. I poured the mold half full, set it set and then popped out half a tire. Did it a second time and then sanded bot halves down to remove some of the width. When it was done a new mold was made to cast 10 new tires. Whew!? To get a thinner rim I took an old rim, plugged the 5 holes, sanded them smooth and then opened up 6 new ones. That took a while and then a mold was made to cast 8 new rims for the rear. I kept the front ones as they were since tire spacing was not an issue. In the meantime the headlight bezels were finished and headlights were set. The windshield glass is also set. Gorilla glue was used sparingly on both the headlights and windshield to secure them. The glue takes a while to set but it stays clear. The engine bay was also completed but there are a couple of details that need to be added to finish it up. So this where we are now. On to the cab interior before tackling the body.

Coming together nicely! Lots of great detail and for a unique subject. Thanks for sharing!?

What is the plan for rounding off the front and rear edges of the roof?

Cheap pin vices are junk. Get a good one with interchangeable collets. Should go to 1/8" diameter. The top should spin free so you can hold onto it. I have a variety of drill bits that are carbide with 1/8" shanks. They are brittle in the smallest sizes but are sharp as needles.

Those are brackets meant to mount the frame for the 50 cal machine gun should the truck have one. Not all did but the mounting brackets were there anyway. Same for the bracket just ahead of the windshield on the right side.

Got the frame painted today and made final adjustments on the hood sides, fenders and hood. The cab is almost ready for paint but it needs a couple more details added. Headlight buckets are resin castings made from a turned aluminum master.

Note the dolly wheel behind the cab frame. That part of the truck could maneuver on its own into the aircraft since the front axle could drive. They only had to steer it on board with the dolly wheel. Interesting stuff. The rest of the truck was crated.

That frame isn't actually split. I just looks that way. The solid roofs went away as the war went on and only about 30% of the trucks were transported by air, I think for possible delivery to the pacific theaters of operation. But it is a unique feature that won't be on many models so I included it. Right now I'm trying to get the hood sides adjusted to where the cab can be painted. Lots of little fiddly things to do so that when I attach the fenders things will be right.

Been busy doing a lot of little things since the last post. Here is where we are as of today. Thres and wheels are painted. Although not in the photo, the trim rings are also in place to finish off the tires and wheels. Fenders are ready for placement but they need some fine tuning first. The cab is essentially done except for the interior. The windshield is done except for the glass and wiper motors. They won't go on until the painting is done. Hood sides are in position with tape for now. The Deuce has 12 grill slots and these only have 6 since they came from the 1-1/2 ton Chevy so the 6 were sanded off and a decal has been made to show the placement of the new pieces. They can be glued on right over the decal and then the hood sides can be painted locking them in place. The cab is secured to the frame with small pieces of angle stock and screws. The hood hinges are done and have temporary pins to help locate the hood for accurate placement of the hood sides. Lots of little stuff but fun detailing it all.

The only kit based piece is the Jeep MB. The Diamond T is scratch built. The deuce and a half will also be scratch built although there are a couple of resin 1/25? scale kits out there.

Looking real good, Jeff! Are you going to letter it?