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Chariots of Fire

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Everything posted by Chariots of Fire

  1. Got the same truck as a built up, just as you did. Took it apart, cut the bed from the cab, cleaned it up and repainted. I separated the front bumper from the grill and cast the grill and headlights in resin. The headlights were opened up and new clear lenses were cast. Wish the chrome trim was in better shape but it is what it is after a lot of years.
  2. I like what you are doing! But I don't think I'd lower it too much. Some boat ramps are quite steep!?
  3. Any lumber yard should carry it.
  4. That would be aluminum flashing. It shines up quite well with some steel wool.
  5. Jeff: Have you ever worked with aluminum flashing? It makes good trim for around the gate valve handles, etc.
  6. Pre-building will work up to a point but as sooner or later during the build, permanent bond is going to be required. I do a lot of scratch building so I guess pre-building is part of the process I use but I never think of it that way. Thinking ahead about what will be coming next is a good way to keep things moving in the right direction. Many times during the building process I have had to make adjustments. It's just part of the process. Sometimes what I thought would work actually doesn't so an alternative has to be used. In the fire service it's called pre-planning, that is, doing all you can before the s.... hits the fan and you have to fly by the seat of your pants!?
  7. I found Rustoleum paints to be no good for model building. Paint is too thick, whereas paints like the new Testors go on in a nice fine spray. I don't use an air brush for the most part. Last cans of Rustoleum I bought for other purposes was junk. Large nozzle just would not work after the first spray, even though I cleaned it out. No more R-eum for me.
  8. That's what I use also. Good stuff, even though it does take a little time to fully cure. But that's not an issue at all.
  9. Thanks, Peter. Will check it out. Never knew the group existed!
  10. I'm with you, Peter. Very small decals are hard to reproduce even with the ALPS due to the pixelization methods the printer uses to create the various colors. I'm glad to have mine though and it works for just about all the decals I would want to produce.
  11. A chance that the material would crawl up the sides and not leave the surface fully flat. (fancy name is meniscus)
  12. Here's what I did. I had a 1960 Ford PU to rebuild. I separated the grill from the front bumper first. Then laid the grill down face up and built a dam around it. Poured in 2 part RTV and let it sit. When the mold was set the grill was in reverse including the headlights. Using some 2 part clear 50/50 resin I dropped just a tiny bit into the headlight depressions. It took a couple of days for the clear resin to cure but when It did I had 4 nice clear lenses with all of the striations and linework of the original chrome ones. That can be done with any size lens whether the smaller ones like dual headlights or the slightly larger ones for single light. A bit hard to see but the clear lenses took the place of the original chrome ones in this resin cast duplicate grill.
  13. You might give a second thought to the clear. If the coat of red has any luster at all let it be. JMHO!?
  14. If it's not too late I'd cut down on the size of the booster hose. Most booster hose is either 3/4" ID or 1" ID with garden thread for couplings. If you can remove the current hose load try substituting some red electrical wire about 1/16 diameter. That will put it more in scale for what you are doing. Got a good start on the red paint. What brand are you using? Here's a look at some of the electical wire I've used on rigs that I have built. This happens to be a 1961 Maxim. The hose reels are the same as yours, only thinned down so you can see the relative size of the hose is smaller. Same wire again and on this one I slipped on pieces of aluminum tubing to look like couplings. The hose may appear larger but it really isn't. There is just more of it on the reels.
  15. Nice piece of work. Great tribute to FDNY!
  16. Welcome, Neighbor! Been here a while myself. Hope to see some of your work!
  17. Fine piece of work! Love the color!
  18. Now it is done for sure. Palette full of K rations in the front behind the gas for Patton's tanks.
  19. I know what you mean. I've slept in command tents, 16x16 wall tents and a small 4x6 canvas tent. They all smell the same!!
  20. This project can now take its place on the shelf. Work is completed with the final details on the tailboard and tarp. The M1 next to the MP is in its scabbard. The load for the back will be a separate project by itself. Willard battery next to the gas tank. Engine is complete and wired. The barrel in the back is a piece of 1" PVC pipe with 0.060 half round for the ribs. The truck is assigned to the Red Ball Express for hauling supplies to Patton's front lines.
  21. Happens to all of us. I noticed tonite that I have the forward mud flaps on backwards on the CCKW. Vertical bracing should be outside the wheels, not inside. Read the photo wrong when I did it. NOT CHANGING IT NOW!!?
  22. And the eyelet above the ladder is the pike pole holder. The front holder is an upright U shape. They drop the end of the pike pole in the U and secure it with a cotter pin.
  23. Some updates with decals done and the tarp tied down. Still a few body details left to do.
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