Chariots of Fire

Worked some on the tarp to cover the body and cab. Got some issues to work out with the body tarp like getting it to look like the sewn in cords are pulling the tarp tight front and rear. Don't know quite yet how that will be accomplished. There also needs to be a front and rear piece that is separate from the top. The body is now in good shape with detailing next in order. The gas tank is done and awaiting paint. Things are beginning to come together.

One of the most frustrating things about it, for sure. I wasted more pieces of PETG that I wish to count!

I'm going to try the swipes next time to see if that improves the quality of the plastic. I have the same machine as Bill Geary and have had the same trouble with bubbles. I was not aware it was moisture that was causing it. I found if the plastic sheet gets too hot too quickly that is when the bubbles start. I try and put the sheet a little lower than the top setting that is next to the heat source so the plastic melts a bit more slowly. Still not an easy process to get nice clean results.

Here's one that did have the cab extension. A template was made of the side of the C cab and then plastic sheet stock was blended in. It still has the original bulkhead behind the front seat.

I wish the old Monogram CF Mack snap kits were 1/25 scale but they are not. Anyway, there is a lot of possibility with those kits. With a few adjustments and changes a decent rig can result. Here are some that date back a few years using the Monogram kits. R model Mack linked with the CF body. Two CF cabs and three CF bodies make this rear mount aerial. Closed cab CF in Providence, RI livery. Standard CF just gussied up a bit.

Been doing some body work. The floor is a resin casting of a wood floor. During the latter stages of WW II the bodies were a combination of steel and wood, the all steel or all wood bodies having been done away with in the newest construction. The canvas top ribs are strip brass with the last three being stiffened up with some plastic strip stock. I ran out of 1/32 x 3/32 strip stock and wanted to get the ribs done. Once painted and under canvas, no one will be the wiser. The tailgate is finished with the exception of the brackets and chains to lock it in the closed position. A door has to be made for the tool box in the center rear. The fuel tank and battery box need to be made for the right side of the chassis just back of the cab.

Here's a look at how to save on the amount of elastic used to create a full hose load. First build a box of card stock or plastic stock that fills most of the hose bed. Leave enough of the sides showing something like in the photo below. Cut small lengths of sewing elastic, glue and double them over to look like the ends of the folded hose. That's a 1/32 scale Monogram fire body in the photo and I'm using 1/8" elastic that has been stained to look like cotton jacket hose. When the short sections fill the back of the bed even with the box, begin to lay full sections of elastic over the whole thing in a couple of layers. I'd advise painting the top of the box the same color as the elastic so that the white doesn't show through. You'll notice that there are brass couplings on the hose. They are made using brass tubing with the grooves made with an SK tubing cutter. When the bed is full it will look something like this. This is a different rig than the Monogram Mack but the same principle was used to create a full hose load. The LDH is 3M tape folded in 3rd's to simulate synthetic hose. There is also some sewing piping used for the red hose. Don't forget to dirty it up a bit. Even when cleaned, the hose will retain some of the black staining and dirt left from operating in a fire situation.

You might want to check on the overall size and heaviness of the materials. A lighter design would (IMHO) make it look like it fits the truck better.?

Those are all great suggestions. Don't forget those little vents right behind the door handles. They can be made using a fine black marker. Also use 1/8" sewing elastic for the cross lays and 1/4" sewing elastic for the 2-1/2" supply and heavy working lines in the hose bed. I'll post a tutorial on how to make the interior of the hose bed that will save a lot of that sewing elastic.

Now that's a method I would not have guessed! Looks like it is really going to work well!

Hi, Paul. Is the pencil sketch of the wrecker boom to the scale you intend?

That is some fine work! It's clear that you are an experienced modeler with some exceptional skills! Will keep watching to see what you end up with.

Here's what it looks like painted up.

Hey, Brian. Give us your take on the overall quality of the cab casting. It looks clean from here but a bit on the heavy side.

I'll check on the wheels for sure. The modified ones are now on the truck and secured in place. Work has been on the cab interior with the dashboard, controls and seats being finished up. Today I took a break from the truck build and made a Garand M1 for the cab. Still has to be painted and it needs a scabbard to put it in but it's ready. The brown paper strip beside it will be the sling strap after the painting is finished. The steering wheel is dark red but needs toning down. In late version deuces they used wood to save on regular steering wheel materials for other uses. The rifle is 43.5 mm long (the real one is 43.6") and is made of plastic strip stock, wire and brass stock.

I love it! It's nice when things come together!?

I've had a few tires and wheels done in 3D just to get patterns done. Then the rest is casting multiples from there. 3D printing has its place just like everything else in the hobby. Being a scratch builder, I use just about anything that fits the need.

The trick will be securing it tight against the sides. Aluminum doesn't like some adhesives. Two part epoxy, maybe, but not CA.

I just re-read what I wrote. Wow! Where's the automatic grammar correction when you need it!!!?

Keep doing things one at a time and you won't be overwhelmed with the project. I once read that doing every little piece as if it were a model unto itself helps to keep things in perspective.

What a pain it has been to get the tires and wheels right on this build!? The original set, although ok, were way to wide, making the overall width of the model well over the 88" it should be. The wheels were also to wide, making the spacing between rear tires even worse. So I set out to cast new tires using the old mold. I poured the mold half full, set it set and then popped out half a tire. Did it a second time and then sanded bot halves down to remove some of the width. When it was done a new mold was made to cast 10 new tires. Whew!? To get a thinner rim I took an old rim, plugged the 5 holes, sanded them smooth and then opened up 6 new ones. That took a while and then a mold was made to cast 8 new rims for the rear. I kept the front ones as they were since tire spacing was not an issue. In the meantime the headlight bezels were finished and headlights were set. The windshield glass is also set. Gorilla glue was used sparingly on both the headlights and windshield to secure them. The glue takes a while to set but it stays clear. The engine bay was also completed but there are a couple of details that need to be added to finish it up. So this where we are now. On to the cab interior before tackling the body.

Coming together nicely! Lots of great detail and for a unique subject. Thanks for sharing!?

What is the plan for rounding off the front and rear edges of the roof?

Cheap pin vices are junk. Get a good one with interchangeable collets. Should go to 1/8" diameter. The top should spin free so you can hold onto it. I have a variety of drill bits that are carbide with 1/8" shanks. They are brittle in the smallest sizes but are sharp as needles.

Those are brackets meant to mount the frame for the 50 cal machine gun should the truck have one. Not all did but the mounting brackets were there anyway. Same for the bracket just ahead of the windshield on the right side.