Chariots of Fire

More pix of the engine. Air cleaner is done and the oil breather is added. Plug wires are strung from the distributor through the tube to the plugs. Only temporary as the engine will need to be painted before final installation. Next up will be to turn some double pulleys for the fan and water pump.

Got the engine started by going back to the scrap yard, parts bin and some other odds and ends. Photos from the TM and on line have helped a lot. There's plenty left to do but it's coming along bit by bit.

I've still got some of the round door locks and the square ones as well. They would be easy to cast. A molotow pen would brighten them up.

I think you hit on one thing and that is trying to paint the parts before assembly. If part of the issue was getting paint into hard to get places I have found that brush painting in those places with a paint color similar to what I'm spraying (I use rattle cans almost exclusively) is a good way to eliminate too much paint. I let the overspray of the can blend into those places and the results are pretty good. You had a good start with the green on the cag and from what I could see the box came out pretty good as well. But sometimes I have found that no matter how hard I try to get pins and holes to line up they just don't. That's when I cut the pin off and simply place the part where it needs to go and ignore the "directions". Hope things go better for you next time.??

What did I tell you, Danno!? Ray: What was the issue with how it was going together. Others who have the kit might be interested in knowing.

Here are some update photos on the Diamond T. Still working on the frame, tires and wheels. I got some Tamiya "rubber black" TS-82 yesterday and tried it out. I like the color. Frame work is nearly done. Every time I go back to look at the Walkaround for the Diamond T I see more stuff! Top view of the frame to date. Here's the front end with the steering arm in place along with shock absorbers and finished tires and wheels. The back end has a lot going on. Tonite I finished up the pintle hook and the additional frame supports for it. The bumpers are made from annealed brass formed over a Renshape buck. Doing them this way really helped in getting them to look alike. The rear axles without the wheels and tires in the way. All rear outside wheels have been modified with fusion beads and wire for lug nuts similar to the front ones. Makes a real difference. Each wheel is a resin casting and the cast in lugs don't always come out good. If I used a pressure pot to cast them it might have worked better but removing and replacing them assured a clean and uniform look for each wheel.

That's the size! The one I remember had a doghouse on it at the control station.

Thanks, Terry. It's been a while since I saw those. The one I was referring to then is about twice the size of what you have shown. Will have to find a photo to post.

We had one of those parked near the river not far from here. Too wide to travel down ordinary streets. There were some smaller versions as well that were more the size of the old DUKW's. As to it being a truck?? More like a "troat" I think.?

I have Phil Jensen's book from way back when. Some good stuff there. Nice photo, Greg!!

Work continues on the frame of the Diamond T. It's widget time for the rear axles as well as around the front. Here are some update photos. The rear axles are essentially done. All of the torque rods are complete and in place. LIttle things like bolt heads, brake cans, the driveshaft between axles have been added. The rear springs float on top of the square axles and pivot about the center. The front axle is glued to the springs and with wire U-bolts. The Pitman arm, and steering rod have been installed. Stops have been added to the bottom of the frame just in front of the rear spring shackles. Everything is in place and the tires can be temporarily set on the hubs. A check was made to be sure that the frame sits level. It does. There are sections of 1/16" tubing that connect the front springs to the shackles. These will eventually be trimmed to be independent. For now they just help keep things in place for fitting. Using those fusion beads again for lug nuts. They stand out nicely, even when painted. They are held in place with pieces of brass wire acting as the studs. Top view of the frame and axles. An unusual feature of this build will be the engine. It is offset to the right so that the oil pan will clear the front differential housing.

What is it they say, Danno? One person's trash (truck) is another person's treasure???

One more pic of the chassis from the rear. All of the components are finally there and the front axle is mounted to the springs but still removable for final fit.

I've still got one of the Jordan Ahrens Fox's and a ladder truck. The ladder was pulled by an AC Mack. They also made a Model A woodie all in HO scale. Perhaps there were others.

Most likely humidity. No problem, really. Wait until it sets up good and then polish the dullness away. It will be fine.

Up on all 10's. Well, almost. Things are just sitting in position with no permanent connections. The front axle and wheels are mounted but the axle is not connected to the springs yet. Same for the rear axles. The wheel hubs are now attached with tubing plugged with plastic rod and then drilled out for the small screws and washers that hold them in place. Pretty solid but turn smoothly. Now it's on to the torque rods and their connections that will hold the rear axles in position with the springs floating on top.

I did a short tutorial on making hydraulic cylinders a while back. They may be still in the how to's.

Been working on the frame and axles of the Diamond T. Slow progress but it's there. No time limit on this one. Axles are done as far as basics are concerned. Working now on the steering for the front end. They are made of soldered C section and tubing. Wheels have been given the Fusion bead treatment up front. The front axle has mounting points and the wire U-bolts are ready. Next up will the the finished axle with the steering knuckles in place, steering arm and tie rod done.

Wish I could, Vince. I only took one completed photo of the rig when it was built several years ago for the son of a paramedic who worked at the hospital. The only labor involved, David, was for the one I did it for. He was slightly challenged, and it was a gift.

This was built a few years ago from photos of the real truck. Added fender trim, bug shield, push bar,light bars, scratch built body, Don Mills slam locks, aluminum foil trim, and home made decals.

If all you need are the bolt heads you can make your own with some hex rod and a chopper tool. Just adjust the blade and stop on the tool for the thickness you want the bolt head to be and chop away. Hex rod comes in a variety of sizes. Smallest I have by Plastruct is 1mm but I can make hundreds of them. Another alternative is to use wire and ceramic hex beads. #15 ceramic beads by Fusion Beads. Drill a hole, slip in a section of wire, drop the ceramic bead over the wire and superglue them together. Snip off the wire and you have the look of a lug nut for a wheel.

Exceptional! Nicely done!!

That looks good to me, Brian. Hard to see the slight difference in color. Nice work!

Just a suggestion: Take a piece of brass tubing with the inside diameter the size you want for the disc. File or grind the outside edge so that it forms a sharp inner edge and use it as a punch. You will probably have to "sharpen" the edge as you use it as it tends to roll over when you tap it on a hard surface. But it works!

Agreed! That Interior is well done indeed! I like the color as well. Nice job.