R. Thorne

Weight box that didn’t pan out and side windows (made from .010” clear sheet) that also didn’t work out. The windows interfered with the interior pan fit, so took them off..

Front end, roll bar and chassis.

Oh, yes, I almost forget. You learned a valuable life lesson about competition and “the heartbreak of defeat”.

Wow! Hard to imagine the amount of time, effort, research (lot harder in those days), passion, and workmanship a 16 year old put in to this drag racing creation. You certainly understood the workings of a funny car. Kudos, sir. Thanks for posting.

Nice! Stockers rule. By the way, Walt Toew who passed away in 2017 was the engine builder on this car. His wife, Ann, currently races a 1969 Camaro in n/sa.

Sorry for miscue and Mark is dead on. I had not looked at the kit from the end view. From my perspective, I would think it could still be shaped and used as Ace said, but Mark is equally right in his suggestion of purchasing another set. Again, sorry if I led anybody astray.

Thanks, Joe. The Tamiya ts spray cans are a bit pricey, but work great.

These are typical waterslide type decals by Slixx, but Gofer makes them, too. Each letter/number is cut out and dipped in water then applied one at a time.

Thank you, sir. More updates soon.

Messed up the windshield with my thumb print in cement at the base. Tried to sand it out but my patience wore thin. Couldn’t live with it, so out came another spare windshield and more tedious class decals. Wheelie bars are from amt 66 nova pro street.

Much obliged, gentlemen. Rest assured I will try all suggestions you have made.

Thanks,John, for the kind words and the axle advice. Starting on the 3rd AA/SA (another 64 Dodge, I think) this weekend. Hopefully, my skills will improve with each one. But, if not, I’m still having fun building these great cars.

During my forensic examination and racking my brain for what might have went wrong with the color coat not adhering properly, I can only come up with 1 possible explanation: I may have used alcohol wipes to clean the body before painting the color coat and that softened the paint (only in spots where there was a thicker coat of paint such as builds up around the trim and high points). This kept the color coat from adhering properly in certain spots. Anyway, it is soaking in 91% alcohol and I will try again, but this time using detergent to clean with.

Well, gentlemen, thanks for the replies. This was an experiment to cut out the bmf adhesive mess that didn’t work, so I don’t feel too bad, but was a mysterious outcome, nonetheless. The white tape was Tamiya tape for curves and ,perhaps, I may have stretched it too much and, hence, put too much pressure on it. I don’t know. I had put foil alone (cut real thin) on other trim and I was taking it off today it pulled the red paint off, also. The paint was Tamiya silverleaf (ts30) over a non sanded out of the box body, cleaned with alcohol wipes. The top coat was Ts74 clear red. For some reason, the red did not adhere well to the silver base, but the silver bonded quite well to the bare smooth body (I tried to pull the silver base coat with some aggressive tape to no avail). Oh, btw, this was new bmf just received a month ago direct from the manufacturer.

Tried a couple different alignment jigs as the wheel fit was so sloppy. Hard to beat testors paint bottles and plastic shim stock. Some pics of the wheels and 9” Goodyear slicks with Tamiya rubber paint on the inside covering up the “Blue Streak”.

With the ubiquitous cell phone most of us have and the extraordinary quality of pictures they provide, there is really no reason not to take pictures of procedures, tools, etc., that work out well and, well, not so well. It is convenient to look back at pictures and created albums rather than trying to remember everything (though I doubt I will forget this tape experiment). The only catch is you may have to increase the memory capabilities of your device(s).

I find this Mr. Hobby pin vise set very handy for opening up painted holes, the 1.5 mm(.060”) the most common one. Next is the tedious application of class designation and permanent numbers (used my number in this case).

Some chassis and interior pics.

Anytime Ace says I gave “excellent advice”, I am truly humbled. Glad to help, Ray.

Had to cut the holes in the hood. Some engine work and decided on white for the interior. Like that Tamiya rubber black. Similarly classed car to Travis Hess’s, but no way in Hades would I tackle that paint job. Cut out fuel tank, as most modern stockers use fuel cells.

Used the Lindberg Ramchargers hemi and Color Me Gone kit. Painted with Tamiya silver leaf which I really like, but had some issues due to operator error. Painted 2 cars at the same time as another 1964 is being built. That one will have the hemi hood scoop.

You might consider this very reasonably priced kit (c1132) from Atlantis. $8.99 plus $3.98 shipping.

I just ordered this kit yesterday from Hobbylobby on sale at $17.99. Is this the kit you used? Uhhh, you might want to edit the title to Ulrey Bros. Sorry, my ocd kicked in. Nice job.

I assume you mean black snout, not bottle. Like this.

I have seen it and some of his work. You are correct and thanks for posting.