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Everything posted by 89AKurt
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featuring beached whales
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reflecting off the
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Small things today. I got the license plate, speedometer, and Wolfsburg crest printed at Sir Speedy. That is the number, year and state, even added teeny tiny photo-etch screw heads. I took screenshots of pictures, of the Badge and speedometer, had them sized to scale, with extras at 5% larger and 5% smaller. I hated how I painted the speedometer, think this looks 100% better. Started on the door windows. No, it won't roll down. I did think about making the driver's vent operable, but I better not. Molotow pen used for trim, BMF left adhesive and when cleaning off, the foil came off.
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Thank you! If you look at factory paint, it's not Future shiny. I always tend to wet-sand through the high points and screw up such a job. Plus I am weathering it as the very first picture shows. So yea. Thanks! I need to stop thinking of new things. LOL Appreciate it. Cool, another Bug owner, really appreciate your comment. I'm amused at all the comments about the wheels, thought putting giant Dub wheels and slamming a car was the thing to do.
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sang I'm in
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to Nowhere. But
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Thought I would take over this topic. I am using another food package plastic, it's not as "dirty" from the vacuum-forming process, used a clean area to cut out the glass. I also didn't want to risk gluing it in, and have it pop off after buttoning up, made aluminum retainers.
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Anyone try using automotive window tint film?
89AKurt replied to Jon Cole's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I wanted to try a mirrored type of tint, but it's flat, and don't see how it can form to curved windows without getting crinkled up. -
for forum trolls
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LOL I continued last night, to work out window installation. I wasn't going to glue in, have goober smears, and/or have them pop in by accident after buttoning up. I made little aluminum retainers (made from newspaper printing plate, it bends easy without breaking like roof flashing). For the back window, which was modified for the smaller opening, it worked best to have the tab the same dimension as the "glass", and beveling the edge to slope towards the center, made it almost a snap-in, just a little bending to keep it in. I'm planning to cover up with headliner paper. I can see faint scratches in the windshield, but it will be weathered with wiper tracks. I'm still pissed about the gouge when the knife went "whip it good!" The Tamiya glass has some distortion, not as bad as Revell or AMT kits, but some around the edges.
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Perhaps someone will come out with an engine detail kit. I have four for other kits already.
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Bare Metal Foil is done! Bumpers are done, *had to* add a detail that anyone who wants a detailed Beetle should do, tube bumper overrider braces. I couldn't find the little brass wire that I thought I had, so used guitar string. Used a punch and the anvil (dad's tools) to smash down an end. Painted those semi-gloss black, like the bumper brackets. Pet peeve, why do they have big honking holes and raised part for the front license plate? Manufacturers should allow you to drill holes, and have the stand-off on the stupid plate. First pass with Molotow pen looked like BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. After the BMF was done, started on the glass. I tried to use the kit windshield, gave up and am using food package. Closer look at the added braces: Been having a problem with the turn signals, thought taking off the excess glue would be ok, but screwed up the paint. I should have taken off when it was fresh, but didn't want to screw up moving the parts. Left a gouge in the paint when cutting the BMF, grrrr..... Oh well. Looking like I might get this one done soon!
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No engine, what fun is that? Looks like you're off to a good start. The Fujumi curbsides are nice kits.
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Someone gave me this kit, so of course I'll have to watch how it goes together!
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Sounds like a good idea! Yea I know, after 5 decades I still don't think about clearing my mouth before blowing on anything.
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as an experiment
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One of my most frustrating aspects! I built a paint booth in my detached office, essentially a tiny closet, so that helps, since the cats are in the house. But I've found that static cling is an issue, must wear cotton clothing, or nothing (yea I've tried that LOL), never wear polyester. Reminds me, I should wipe down that room down, it's been awhile. As said above, the less movement prior, the better. I've also found that resin has more of a static charge. But I live in Arizona, humidity is usually really low (not lately). When I have a critical paint job to do, I even take a shower just beforehand, your hair and body collects stuff during the day. My two cents, I still suck at getting perfect paint jobs.
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entails soaked in
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Today I made the engine lid handle, which is different than the '66. Whittled from thick Evergreen because it's a bit more flexible than kit styrene, wire pin and it's moveable so it can be accurate by not being straight. LOL Molotow pen for chrome. Wired and plumbed the engine. This is an area I don't *really* like to do, unlike some guys who do fabulous work with wiring and linkages and such. Made wire retainers from aluminum plate, Waldon punch used for the base. I also refined the turn signals, something I learned long ago reading a Windfield (verify) book, was drilling holes to simulate light bulbs inside of lights. My favorite wire is from MSC Model Products, it bends and does not spring back. I have a stash of wires that were salvaged from dead electronic devices, the plug boots are just the insulation from a larger wire. I Hollywood the wires to the coil and generator, not accurate but fills up the engine bay nicely. Thin solder wire was used for the vacuum advance, I have no idea where is connected behind the carb, don't tell anyone. Bare copper wire for the gas line, restored pictures have it, but I'm sure the factory used steel or perhaps rubber?
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with Swedish meatballs
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Thanks. I can't imagine driving in the winter, but they obviously did! I already made gloves, will also throw a blanket in the cargo. Oh yea, make a scraper. Appreciate it. Yea, that sort of thing can put a project on hold indefinitely. But I have a deadline on this one. The Desert Scale contest also has a VW category, so that's another inspiration to complete this. LOL Still need to make the ski rack, make ski boots, a little bag with some chains hanging out.....
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to save yourself
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Pele' roasted everyone
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Pretended I was a body shop, fixing the fenders. Since I had to use the Splash paint through the airbrush, I did the wheels too, and made interior door frames too. The wheels were a PITA, the paint was not staying on the resin wheels, any tape would pull off the paint, so I made a mask from thick foil glued to a stick. It's a bit sloppy, but since I'm weathering with frozen slush, it should be disguised. Of course I had to clear it, am happy I didn't have to wet sand. Reassembled the tires to wheels and valve stems, this looks so much better. Now that I'm caught up, moved ahead with another detail, the fuel pump. I used stretched sprue, which happened to have a bubble that helped for drilling out, and the Waldon punch to make some disks. I superglued the tiny parts together, then dipped in baking soda, then sanded to final shape. Added a photo-etch nut just because, will use more with the copper line. I scrounged the decal stash to make the air filter label. I probably shouldn't post the reference picture of a 1960 engine, because I see more changes that should be done, but I do want to finish this project, the plug wires will be fiddly enough.