Jantrix

Thanks Pat. And yes it is. Mine will be very similar. I'm undesided on the exhaust situation. I like the way you did yours.

Looks like some good work. I'd like to thank you for offering photos AND the video. Folks that offer a video only probably don't get half the attention because someone on their lunch break (like me) doesn't have time to check out a video. Appreciate the photos.

Wow. Very nice. You always make it look easy.

Okay. The hobby room is reassembled. New lighting and FINALLY, the spray booth is vented and ready to go. So first things first. The plan this time is to trim away the fenders only, leaving the sheet metal that rests on top of the frame rails in front, the side aprons and rear fenderwells. This will give it a fenders removed look, while keeping the body and hood at the same level, keeping the stock grill mounting location, gas tank cover, and minimal scratch building. It's gonna be delicate work though. Also thinking about removing the hood side vents and replacing them with mesh from behind. More soon. Thanks for checking in.

This is just taken with my phone, Galaxy 9. I think it does pretty well.

I agree. I built one as a villain car and I liked the kit. The top kept ghosting through when I tried to sand it smooth, but other than that, it was a pretty good kit. This one looks very nice.

If I was going to resincast some, I'd use the ones from the Monogram '39 CHevy kits. They look real good.

Man that is terrific. If they had had GT's back then, this would have been it.

Thanks Wayne. I really miss that show.

Where did the base come from? Looking good, I like this.

I actually find 1/20 to be a very nice scale. It's large enough that parts aren't quite so delicate where you might break them, just removing them from the sprue. But still small enough that kits and built models don't take up that much more space. I would have liked it if more had been kitted.

Sadly 1/20 plastic models were confined to vans, vettes and a couple of muscle cars. Not many options for your Hubley.

I have done this very conversion for the Sleeper Cannonball, using that engine in the AMT Pacer wagon. The problem with the AMT 2JZ is that the turbos are plumbed backwards. Replumbing is necesary. The Pacer is 3000 lbs dripping wet. So any small block will do nicely I think. The 302 Ford from the Revell '32's would look slick and fit nicely, I think. Also the 318/340 from the AMT Duster.

I agree. This has been brought up in discussions with Gregg before and he's adamantly against going digital. Very old school that way.

Yes. The 32 Chrysler beach racer I'm doing will have a gloss paint job. I won't be polishing it out, but a gloss paint seems to fit the build. Then I'm going to pull the '37 Chevy hot rod outa mothballs which is already gloss green, and finish it, and then the Allison Charger, which I was planning to do in a high gloss. I'll have my spray booth set up here real soon, which is badly needed.

That is good news. I like that they are engineering these to have swappable options between the kits. Thanks Tim.

Just the color really. Very unusual.

Out of curiosity, what makes you think it's a diesel? And isn't the intake/exhaust on the wrong side of a Slant6? Maybe this is some artists concept. Fictional?

Good to know. Thanks.

I think the latter idea is the cause. The decals on this '49 have "silvered", for the reasons Trevor pointed out. It looks different than what happened on your race car. It looks like something has happened to the adhesive that is on your decals. They may be old, faulty/heat damaged or they were soaked too long. My $0.02.

I like this very much. The red headers have me puzzled, though. I'd like to know more about that transaxle.

Thanks guys. I'm going to take a break from weathered rides for a couple builds, but I'll eventually get back to it.

I've recently added this excellent light. It's very light, all LED. Bluetooth speakers. Hung mine with hanging plant brackets because 15" brackets are hard to find. About $75 dollars for the light and $10 more for the brackets. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Lighting-SPSL-Linear-Shop-Light-Common-4-ft-Actual-2-8-in-42-in/1000703132

I'm never thinking ease of disassembly. I don't rebuild my models, so I'm not worried about whomever gets my builds after I'm pushing up daisies. However, I do try to use the minimum amount of glue to do the job. In most cases, this practice would usually allow for the model to be disassembled without a major disaster.

Very nice. The police body panels add some interest to the model. Well done.