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Tommy124

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Everything posted by Tommy124

  1. Tommy124
    Looking good! More images of the car available here: http://www.racingsportscars.com/chassis/photo/ZAK G5C-001__78.html
  2. Tommy124
    Beautiful - love it! Extremely clean paint job and masking. And a very nice color scheme. Maybe some smaller stains from the black panel wash, which can be easily removed. Very well done!
  3. Tommy124
    Thanks again, Lloyd! Sounds good to me, will get me one of these cans...
  4. Tommy124
    Thanks, Lloyd. Interesting process. I checked on the 3M Super 77 Spray adhesive, however, did not find any notes saying that it can be easily removed, let's say with water. There must be a way to remove the templates after scribing, right? Thanks to you too, Matt. Although I'm done with scribing for now on the Porsche, I appreciate to learn about the "quick" solution, using Dymo tape. I'll order some of that and do some exercising on an old model. Good to know aswell about the "sophisticated way", this is very good. Indeed I think it's enough to have a rather light, but straight guide line to proceed with cautiously and free-handedly. Appreciated!
  5. Tommy124
    @Dann The Masker: looking great! A lot of work, yeah, but I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end. Looking forward to this being cleared!
  6. Tommy124
    Well to me, they are lines. See this image. That is a good tip for creases though, thanks for that.
  7. Tommy124
    I have seen this kit being built before, it's a nice one. And with regards to the small number of parts, this box stock build should be a piece of cake for you... As far as the decals are concerned, someone told me they always give the decals a mist of clear from the rattle can. That should make them less brittle and yet more flexible with regards to their application. I haven't tried that myself so far though. Will follow your build!
  8. Tommy124
    That's a lovely build! The color suits the car very nicely. I imagine the result with this color is not least depending on the primer. Did you use a white one?
  9. Tommy124
    Okay... today I will post some images of myself having a hard time. I noticed that on the bottom of the real car there are some additional horizontal panel lines: As these panel lines are not done on the kit's body, I had to find a way of doing them myself, properly. The task was to find some kind of material that I could (temporarily) fix to the body as a "guide" in order to follow along with the scriber. The problem is, it has to be flexible enough in order to adapt to the body's curves but yet be hard enough not to move while scribing (in order to avoid uneven lines). These are some things I tried. Let me tell you, they all basically failed... Thick "fix-o-moll" tape (originally used for sealing windows) - too rough and uneven... Double-sided adhesive tape - too soft: PE part fixed to the body using tape - too unsteady. I even found myself trying to fix PE scribing templates to the body using white glue but that failed aswell. If the body was even and not curved, it would not be any problem at all, but this way... Eventually I managed to complete the lines using several more or less unsatisfactory techniques. I have not made any photos of that so far but will show the lines once the body has been primered. However, I would really appreciate any tips and tricks on how this can be done better. Be that on materials themselves or alternative methods, your feedback will be much appreciated!
  10. Tommy124
    Not in my eyes. It's called gun metal and that's what it looks like to me.
  11. Tommy124
    Thanks for you kind words, guys! Thanks to you too, Brian! I use several photo box backgrounds as provided by Scale Production: https://www.scaleproduction.de/?cat=c119_Dioramen-1-24-Dioramen-1-24.html
  12. Tommy124
    That would have to be AK 483.
  13. Tommy124
    Great build in every department! I have that kit in stock and I might be tempted to go for a similar direction...
  14. Tommy124
    WOW! Quite a bit of paint dust there... At first I thought it was light and shadows on the floor but then I got it... May I ask how you handle the preparation of your rattle cans before shooting? Do you warm them up in water? I do so until I can barely handle the warm can and I do a lot of shaking before and after that. Yet I find myself having trouble here and there, especially if the can is not that full anymore. It's probably also the case that I don't take care enough of cleaning the nozzle...
  15. Tommy124
    Nothing short of L-O-V-E-L-Y!
  16. Tommy124
    A real beauty, Alex. Please keep ‘em coming!
  17. Tommy124
    Looking forward!
  18. Tommy124
    Hi Dominik, nice you're following along too. I remember exactly what it was like "decades ago"... Back then and without the internet we wouldn't have found out about all the kit's flaws. So really everything was better then, right? Truth be told, I learned an awful lot on the WWW... Thanks Kurt, looking forward to you working on some Porsches too!
  19. Tommy124
    Coming along beautifully!
  20. Tommy124
    Hmm, if I were to have spare body parts from, let's say a Tamiya F40 "Autobahn Unfall", I might be tempted to transplant that missing naca duct section into the Fujimi hood. Unless you have a way of scratch-building that too...
  21. Tommy124
    Thanks for your feedback, Sonny. There have been several variations throughout the years. It all started with the 800hp Koenig Competition version - the one I built. The name Competition btw is referring to the fact that Koenig took part in an actual car tuner's competition with that car (and of course won!). That version was soon to be followed by the 1000hp Koenig Competition Evolution. That looked a bit less edgy with smoother body parts in the front. But there have been other changes in the course of the years, not least due to the fact that the basic car changed. The first Competition was based on the "classic" Testarossa, whereas later models were based on the 512TR and F512M. All Fujimi 1/24 scale kits are based on the very first Competition series. Having said that, there is also a 1/16 scale kit by Fujimi of the "regular" Koenig Testarossa (non-Competition), this one: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/129260-fujimi-rc-105-koenig-testarossa I'd like to see you get working on one of these!
  22. Tommy124
    Hi Will, this is looking like a great start. Looking forward to your progress. @Dann Tier Yes, but what I really don't get about this kit is why Fujimi forgot/ refused to add the naca duct intake to the front part of the car. For the LM version, there HAS to be one in the center of the front hood above the Ferrari emblem. It's not that they did not change the hood anyways - as we know they made the big air outlet so they could have done the naca duct aswell. Fujimi logics...
  23. Tommy124
    Great Dann, looking forward to that!
  24. Tommy124
    Indeed it does! Looks very good, Dann. The significance of ambitious and and thorough scribing is dawning on me more and more each day...
  25. Tommy124
    HI JC, the 964 wasn't my favourite Porsche either back in the day, I was more of a "G-model man" then. But as you get older... Today I think it's design is pretty puristic and it made for a good stylistic transition between the G-model and the more modern 911's that were yet to come. About the Fujimi kits... Glad you follow, Justin. Most of these corrections cannot be avoided imho, once you noticed the kit's flaws. Thanks, Alex. We agree they really should do better than that. But not just them. These days I purchased an Italeri Porsche 944 S kit in order to have that car in another version than the Turbo, for a change. And what's inside the box - you guess it... 944 Turbo: Turbo engine, Turbo body, in fact, not even any other decals than those for the Turbo. What's the point...?? Thanks, Lloyd. Yes indeed. They better be, Dann!
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