Tommy124

Great model Ludwig... I have that kit in my stock in the "contemporary custom" version. The only thing I don't really like is the rather thickish antenna rod.

Very clean build!

I was rather thinking of replacing the whole rear window with a piece of clear sheet, which is what I'm planning to do on my 964 RS 3.8. Shouldn't be an issue give the rather straight shape of the window. There is a guy called Alex G. on scalemates.com who did quite an interesting WIP on the Fujimi kit. He replaced the window too and it looks good. https://www.scalemates.com/profiles/mate.php?id=12266&p=albums&album=31587#66

Yellow is a good choice. Would make for a nice contrast with a dark interior color in this OPEN car! By the way, did you guys ever see one drive, I mean REALLY drive (very sorry, it's a RED one, Dann...)?

Great result Will! Yes, the rods could be a tad smaller but looking good anyway... Pushing parts in from the other side is a great technique, I think. It works well with all kinds of buttons on dashboards etc. (Needless to say, it wasn't me who figured that technique out...)

Thanks Bill and I agree with you about the work of Giugiaro. The car was actually kitted by several companies, such as Heller and Airfix (identical kit in 1/24 scale) plus Aoshima and Revell (identical kit in 1/16 scale). Whereas the 1/24 kit maybe has some 40 parts, the 1/16 is rather detailed with around 150 parts.

Agree with you Dann. Plus I think the structure and thickness of the tape in use is a bit out of scale. I use white Leucosilk tape (medical tape for fixing bandages etc.) and color that up using a marker. Very easy to do. https://www.voelkner.de/products/266758/Soehngen-1009210-Leukosilk-5m-x-2-50cm.html

Great work JC. The Porsche looks already so "race"... And this is a great idea, if you don't want to replace the rear window glass with clear sheet. However it still has that rear window heating structure in it...

BORING! Another one of those ordinary Ferrari 288 GTO Mondial builds... Wait! What did I just say? Of course it's not a Mondial, as it's not a 2+2 seater... So shall we call it 288 GTS? A great idea and stunning SB work so far, Dann! Looking forward to see more...

Thanks. You're right about the glass, although this recess is probably due to the body being paint-stripped once too often... I thought about replacing all glass parts by transparent sheet for a minute and the roof and windscreen glass wouldn't have been a problem at all. However, the 2 contorted glass parts per each door window would have been a problem, especially given the issues with the horizontal door bar which I mentioned earlier on. So I accepted the compromise and as this is rather a rare kit nowadays (worth saving), I'm basically fine with that.

Hi Will, I agree, this is looking good. Tamiya brakes look better stock-box than some fancy PE upgrade parts... Good idea about using the drill for the buttons, but why not go all the way? For the colored buttons (yellow, white, blue, red) you could drill the hole through. Then push an Evergreen round rod painted (before) in the right colors from the bottom into the hole just enough to make it look like colored buttons... What do you think?

It's actually on hold for now... The adaption work on the wheels became a bit annoying at some point, so I "boxed" it in order to finish it later on. Working on a muscle car from my birth year now...

Thanks for your comments, guys! Like the car or not, I think we agree that this is a bit out of the ordinary...

If you have the chance to order from UK, this is it: https://www.hiroboy.com/Bullit_Mustang__Dark_Metallic_Green_Paint_60ml--product--4495.html

Cool idea... And I might know the sequel to that... The James Bond Cobra...

I've experienced that as well. That is why I often reduce the detail level of a build. Otherwise, I tire of it, put it on the shelf and move on to another project. When I get back to some of them, they no longer interest me. Fully agree... It's good to make a commitment to oneself at the start of a build to define how detailed the whole thing is supposed to be. You cannot plan the build 100% and ever so often you will find things that need improvement. But you should have an idea about what you expect of yourself at least. If then later you feel you are getting tired of the build, in my experience it's better to put the kit aside and finish it later on. I've done that a couple of times this year and believe it was the right way to go. Nothing worse than trying to force oneself to finish a build... Dann, as regards your progress - simply OUTSTANDING. Just some glass to be put in (well maybe a lot more, if I know you...) and then this one-off showpiece will be finished!

First off, the Vette is looking great! Looking forward to see it finished soon... Exactly what I was going to say! I like to use these small "floss sticks"... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-Floss-Sticks-Tooth-Flossing-Head-Hygiene-Dental-Plastic-Interdental-Brush-Toothpick/32757629526.html I wet one of those with a drop of water, then push it into the panel line to be cleaned and pull it along the line. Works pretty well and you don't have to use a real toothbrush which is actually much too big for the job...

I would definitely agree with Nathan about this being the Toyota 88 wheels. Note that there is another kit of that car from Hasegawa. If you look for similar wheels (so not necessarily require the exact same ones), you might also go for those from the Hasegawa/ROG Porsche 962 kits. They might be better available, depending on where you look...

Good ideas and great work here as in all of your WIP's, JC. Looking forward to see more...

Tesa products are widely available in German DIY stores, they have dozens of different tapes for any purpose. The (solvent-free) tape I was referring to is called "Precision indoor". https://www.amazon.de/tesa-Malerband-Qualität-Promo-Pack-Rollen/dp/B00B9DDB7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543234412&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+precision+indoor Tesa cloth tape shouldn't be a problem though, found it on Ebay.com...

Looks good so far JC. Looking forward to see more... I'm not sure about the meaning of this - can you please explain?

I too have that booth... Some comments on that from my side after some years of experience with it. First off, the filter material is consisting of two parts. The outer part (blue on one side, white on the other) and the inner part (black filter). That is, if the product is sold the same way as in Germany. However, the black filter is only for using without the vent pipe. If you DO use the vent pipe, the black filter is NOT required (as per the user's instructions) which will result into a better airflow performance! Speaking of which, some people complain about the airflow performance being poor but 3 cubic meters/ minute of suction capacity aren't that bad. And it's not only about those specs, it's also about the right size of the booth. I found that out after I built a much bigger DIY spraybooth from a plastic box which had a much stronger suction unit in it. That didn't work half as good as this one because of the size of the booth, it actually took much longer for the fumes to be absorbed. If you are using some really toxic stuff like e.g. Zero Paints, there may be no doubt that despite using this booth you'll additionally have to ventilate the room for at least an hour or so. The booth will help you catch the spray mist and some of the fumes, but a lot of that unhealthy stink will still be in the air! Personally I am using the booth with a rather long vent pipe (around 5 meters), with the pipe being connected to a wall vent. This is because my spraying table is that far from the wall vent. With regards to the long vent pipe I have installed an additional circular in-line fan at the end of the vent pipe, close to the wall vent. This way it works fine for me but as I said, it still takes thorough room ventilation after the paint job.

Fully agree. When it comes to those super-fine double lines on the hood of a '69 Camaro, I'd go for BMF aswell. And it doesn't have that "time factor" to it... Agree here too, Dann, Tamiya is a good tape. BUT: once you use it on Tamiya acrylics or TS colors and leave it for a longer period, the solvents will leave their mark on the paint, the longer - the worse. That's why I switched to a (guaranteed) solvent-free Tesa tape for these kinds of paints... By the way, I always use a small hairdryer on a lower temperature setting to warm up masking tape before removing it from the painted parts. This significantly reduces the tape's adhesive power on the paint - and the risk of pulling off paint instead...

That kit is on my list aswell... I'll follow your WIP!

Thanks Ray and Phil! Yes, it appears so but that was actually a modified Countach...