Tommy124

Thanks for the explanation. Chemically "uneducated modelers" like myself might be partially excused by the fact that paint manufacturers do not really add a lot of transparency to this subject by using the products names as they do. Example, Tamiya has the famous X/XF colors on the one hand side. Obviously they are waterbased acrylics. By your definition I would reckon that they are lacquers. Are they? Then on the other hand side they have those LP (Lacquer Paint) colors which are also acrylics, although of course using different ("stinky") solvents. So it has to be assumed that they are using the term "acrylic" to specify the low-odor X/XF color type (although both types are acrylics) and the term "lacquer" to specify the stinky LP colors (although both types are lacquers). Do you agree?

You surely have. Looks like collecting tweezers could become a hobby of it's own... I must admit don't have a single pair of tweezers dedicated to handling PE parts. I surely have "regular" ones but 95% of the time I prefer to handle them with the wax pen.

Thanks for the tip with the Scotch tape, Tom. So simple, but this WILL help. Btw., some months gao I checked on what tool to use for cutting PE parts and all traces lead me to buying the Xuron cutter. Had to order it from the USA but it was worth it!

Sure. I actually believe it works with blending small amounts of regular metallic MODEL color (silver, for instance) and high amounts of the solid color just aswell. I guess two things are vital: making sure that the metallic flakes are "model-size" and not overdoing the overall share of it in the mix.

Many thanks Dominick for this How-To! And to all the other guys knowing about this trick for years or decades even, why didn't YOU show it? Just kidding! As regards getting this ruler tool, as they on The Sopranos, it's been taken care of...

Interesting discussion... And then there's the other way round... creating metallic color based on a solid one. I heard this stuff is good for doing so. Haven't tried it out yet though. https://www.creativ-discount.de/Schmincke-AERO-Metallic-Medium-28-ml?ref=google-shopping&subref=CSC50608023&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvYba_dSB4AIVSdiyCh3CagWDEAQYASABEgKlQfD_BwE

Your progress is looking good and the wheels are simply beautiful!

Hi Bill, I will be following along and enjoying this Corvette resto like the one you did before. Your work on the engine looks terrific to me!

This is awesome. Can't wait to try this stuff for myself. Thanks again for the tip and the how-to!

Nothing against soaking the AB in regular AB cleaner IMHO, but if you clean it up thoroughly after each painting session (which should be done anyways), that shouldn't even be necessary. I always make sure to do so and keep the AB disassembled until the next session. That way I have a better way of checking if all parts are really clean and fitting together smoothly while assembling the AB directly before the next painting session. One great piece of advice I have been given once is to use dental floss like Oral B "SuperFloss" for cleaning the inside of the AB. Soak it in AB cleaner and pull it through the AB a few times, there's no better way to clean it. Tying the SuperFloss to a screwdriver or something similar will make it much easier to handle. Check the images in this tutorial to get an idea: http://modellboard.net/index.php/topic,41455.msg616355.html#msg616355

That's poor information from AK... Maybe some general instructions from ZP will help: https://www.hiroboy.com/Diamond_Finish__2_Pack_GLOSS_Clearcoat_System_2K_Urethane_220ml--product--10301.html As regards the thinner's ratio, I suggest to start at a low level and then adjust. Changing the viscosity shouldn't affect the possible result, but the way the mix is going through the airbrush. Which nozzle size are you going to use?

Well, we'll see... Wouldn't be surprised if we came to see some minor corrections in this WIP... such as a V8 placed in the front end...

Steve, I have to correct myself. The thinner is not mentioned on the box, but it is mentioned in the product description in their webshop: "Two-component ultra-gloss lacquer. Mix the lacquer and hardener in 3/1 ratio. Contains a 60ml bottle of thinner, 60ml lacquer and the hardener and two syringes." They do not mention ratio for using the thinner though... is it mentioned in the instructions somewhere on the box? Looking forward to learning about your experiences with this set.

I fully agree here. Regardless of the type of paint used, I would never let the color set inside the airbrush for such a period. I use a gravity-feed (Harder & Steenbeck Evolution) airbrush, so I empty the cup into the paint container. After that I fill in a small amount of the stuff that I found to be the most effective for cleaning the AB just aswell as stripping paint off a model. It's called Methoxypropanol (https://www.kremer-pigmente.com/de/methoxypropanol-pm-70920.html). I also found it useful to close the nozzle with a plastic cap (https://www.everythingairbrush.com/plastic-nozzle-cover.html) before spraying with a bit of of that stuff inside the cup. With the nozzle being closed, the pressure is reversed, so the cleaner goes back the other way and makes sure for a good (intermediate) cleaning inside the AB.

I use either that glue on a stick or the "wax picker pen": https://www.ebay.de/itm/2-Stuck-Picker-Pen-Stift-Strass-Stein-Perlen-Applikator-Wachsstift-Nail-Art/272661436612?hash=item3f7be358c4:g:YJMAAOSwXoxafFZ0:rk:12:pf:0. This is very nice to handle.

Nice build, Will!

Dann, completely agree to this! What a build, what a WIP, what a result! Looking forward to you cutting down to doing only 4 builds simultaneously, as that will mean more and quicker progress!

Thanks for the tip, I will definitely be checking out this stuff. Product description says it has "air channels". I assume that means the adhesive reverse side is somewhat engineered in such a way as not to let any "air bubbles" occur during application.

I actually just got the sister kit (2in1, "Classic Cruiser") by trading with a fellow modeller. It's not so easy to find around here. Will be following your process!

No, I haven't. It's a very nice box though... I once considered trying this out but honestly, I don't know why I should. I don't see any point to prefer this over Zero paints 2k clear which I mostly use on "modern car" models. Furthermore, I believe both products are nothing special or different really. They are 2k clearcoat lacquers as used in the automotive industry, while probably being modified for airbrush (small nozzle) use. Other than the ZP product, the AK stuff comes without any separate thinners which is something I don't like. As that means there is a fixed clearcoat - hardener ratio (3:1) but nothing can be done about the viscosity. I like to vary the amount of thinners in the process, so this is not good imho. The next thing is that the AK stuff is very expensive, given the small total quantity of only 80 ml. The ZP set comes with twice the amount (100 ml clearcoat + 60 ml hardener = 160 ml) PLUS 60 ml thinners which further increases the total amount of mixed varnish and, more importantly, the flexibility to adjust the ratio according to my needs. Both products cost about the same, a bit more that 20 EUR. So AK has the nicer packaging, but I'm pretty certain ZP is the better deal...

STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL model and photos! The kit has been on my wishlist for some time, it's time it got in my stash!

Very nice model. And a very productive builder, 2 builds after 2 weeks... I must be doing something wrong?

Great model, great pictures! Customs wheels look good on it!

There is no such place! Your builds look fine!

Yes, both look great. The livery is for a German company producing heating appliances. I always liked it, already as a kid, because of that bunny!