Tommy124

LOVELY! I gotta get me that kit, but so far no chance of buying it in Germany or Europe...

Beautiful!

Agreed 100%. What is that color - Tamiya TS-54?

Hello Simon, great build! Looks awesome this way. Funny because I am intending to go for a non-livery finish myself!

Absolutely brilliant build!

TBH when discussing whether to or not to soak an AB in cleaner etc., I was assuming that it's about an AB equipped with teflon seals. If there are rubber seals involved, soaking is of course a no-go.

I have this kit aswell and actually started some smaller work on the body last year. It takes a lot of preparation work, e.g. sanding all the many small louvres on the hood. Will you build it out of the box? I intend to use bigger wheels and tyres as I think the stock/ kit wheels are too small for such a cool car.

I like the Foxbodies too. I just got myself the Monogram kit to do the 1992 GT Convertible. Remember this video? Eric, if you're not sure whether the primer will stick to the body, do the tape-test. Stick some tape to parts of the body very thoroughly and then pull it off quickly. The primer should stick to the body rather than the tape...

I just learnt today that acrylics do not necessarily have to be "low-odor". Btw, I like your models and paint finish, the Vette especially!

It wouldn't be the first (yellow) Porsche 962 without livery: https://fastestlaps.com/models/dauer-porsche-962-lemans Jochen Dauer, owner of the Dauer Racing Team - the last one to win with the Porsche 962 in Le Mans (in 1994 - as a private team!) - sold road-going versions of the 962 C for 1,5M Deutschmark back then, IIRC. And if that wasn't enough... http://en.wheelsage.org/porsche/962/pictures/278416/ Great work by the way, Will. I really like the paint job!

Hi guys, I have a question regarding the "foil under paint" technique. Do you apply the BMF onto the paint (basecoat) or onto the primer already? The way I see it, there are pros and cons either way.

Thanks for the tip Steve! This comes at the right time as I will start with the BMF on my 69 Camaro one of these days. Really great and simple and one of those why-did-I-not-come-up-with-that-myself things...

Thanks for the explanation. Chemically "uneducated modelers" like myself might be partially excused by the fact that paint manufacturers do not really add a lot of transparency to this subject by using the products names as they do. Example, Tamiya has the famous X/XF colors on the one hand side. Obviously they are waterbased acrylics. By your definition I would reckon that they are lacquers. Are they? Then on the other hand side they have those LP (Lacquer Paint) colors which are also acrylics, although of course using different ("stinky") solvents. So it has to be assumed that they are using the term "acrylic" to specify the low-odor X/XF color type (although both types are acrylics) and the term "lacquer" to specify the stinky LP colors (although both types are lacquers). Do you agree?

You surely have. Looks like collecting tweezers could become a hobby of it's own... I must admit don't have a single pair of tweezers dedicated to handling PE parts. I surely have "regular" ones but 95% of the time I prefer to handle them with the wax pen.

Thanks for the tip with the Scotch tape, Tom. So simple, but this WILL help. Btw., some months gao I checked on what tool to use for cutting PE parts and all traces lead me to buying the Xuron cutter. Had to order it from the USA but it was worth it!

Sure. I actually believe it works with blending small amounts of regular metallic MODEL color (silver, for instance) and high amounts of the solid color just aswell. I guess two things are vital: making sure that the metallic flakes are "model-size" and not overdoing the overall share of it in the mix.

Many thanks Dominick for this How-To! And to all the other guys knowing about this trick for years or decades even, why didn't YOU show it? Just kidding! As regards getting this ruler tool, as they on The Sopranos, it's been taken care of...

Interesting discussion... And then there's the other way round... creating metallic color based on a solid one. I heard this stuff is good for doing so. Haven't tried it out yet though. https://www.creativ-discount.de/Schmincke-AERO-Metallic-Medium-28-ml?ref=google-shopping&subref=CSC50608023&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvYba_dSB4AIVSdiyCh3CagWDEAQYASABEgKlQfD_BwE

Your progress is looking good and the wheels are simply beautiful!

Hi Bill, I will be following along and enjoying this Corvette resto like the one you did before. Your work on the engine looks terrific to me!

This is awesome. Can't wait to try this stuff for myself. Thanks again for the tip and the how-to!

Nothing against soaking the AB in regular AB cleaner IMHO, but if you clean it up thoroughly after each painting session (which should be done anyways), that shouldn't even be necessary. I always make sure to do so and keep the AB disassembled until the next session. That way I have a better way of checking if all parts are really clean and fitting together smoothly while assembling the AB directly before the next painting session. One great piece of advice I have been given once is to use dental floss like Oral B "SuperFloss" for cleaning the inside of the AB. Soak it in AB cleaner and pull it through the AB a few times, there's no better way to clean it. Tying the SuperFloss to a screwdriver or something similar will make it much easier to handle. Check the images in this tutorial to get an idea: http://modellboard.net/index.php/topic,41455.msg616355.html#msg616355

That's poor information from AK... Maybe some general instructions from ZP will help: https://www.hiroboy.com/Diamond_Finish__2_Pack_GLOSS_Clearcoat_System_2K_Urethane_220ml--product--10301.html As regards the thinner's ratio, I suggest to start at a low level and then adjust. Changing the viscosity shouldn't affect the possible result, but the way the mix is going through the airbrush. Which nozzle size are you going to use?

Well, we'll see... Wouldn't be surprised if we came to see some minor corrections in this WIP... such as a V8 placed in the front end...

Steve, I have to correct myself. The thinner is not mentioned on the box, but it is mentioned in the product description in their webshop: "Two-component ultra-gloss lacquer. Mix the lacquer and hardener in 3/1 ratio. Contains a 60ml bottle of thinner, 60ml lacquer and the hardener and two syringes." They do not mention ratio for using the thinner though... is it mentioned in the instructions somewhere on the box? Looking forward to learning about your experiences with this set.