Tommy124

I heard that the air temperature is secondary as long as you heat up both the model to paint and the rattle can. I believe however that this will work only to a certain extent. Furthermore, I am pretty certain that gloss coats are far more sensitive than primer, for instance. Also the air humidity might be an important factor... I second that!

In fact, there is. It's from uh... Molotow. https://www.graffitishop-berlin.de/molotow-burner-chrom-600ml-spruehdose.html Never mind, this stuff has nothing in common with the "pen ink". It's designed to be used on graffitis...

Fully agree!

Totally scratch-built, really?? Jaw-droppin' GREAT!!

Really like it Jim, although it looks to me like the rear wheels' stance is a little bit off... I thought it was the 2017 AMT snap-kit at first, but from the decals and wheels I guess it's the "Fifty" full kit, right? If so, what about the engine?

And here I was thinking that Aoshima are the ones to have found a better way of fitting body parts to each other... Seems as though it's the same business as with so many kits. First trying to glue in the painted parts, then cutting and trimming those parts to make them fit, glueing in additional SB parts for those painted parts to be reasonably fixed somehow, then the next attempt of glueing in the painted parts... I just hate this. Looks like you solved it though and you are done with this very soon.

I'm not an expert in this but isn't it true that the 60's models have been made with the direct aid of the car manufacturers (providing drawings, data and not least original cars) as the basis for making the kits, whereas the modern kits made decades later had to be based on more theoretical and second-hand material?

Nice job, and I like the contrast with the blue interior!

Just WOW!

I received the same newsletter yesterday. One side of the story, I guess, although the newsletter itself sounds pretty credible to me. But I remember that around 2 years ago, Gravity Colors Europe approached their registered customers with a similar letter. So kind of hard to find out the truth, but honestly, I don't have to. I have more than enough colors on stock and there are alternative brands on the market. I won't take any chances finding out what I will or won't get from Gravity Colors anymore...

Now that is the most colorful apocalyptic car build I have seen so far. It sure is fun to look at and I see some really good ideas went into that (using spoons, to begin with). And man, that really IS some turbo!

Well done! The '70 Charger is my favorite of the lot and Panther Pink is just the right color for it...

Good idea with the Evergreen rod. IIRC, the antenna hole is not quite round in order to make the antenne fit in only the right way. Could be that this would need to be drilled open to have a bigger but completely round hole to fit the Evergreen rod in. Thanks for your feedback! Yes, as we say in German, it's a "Klassiker"

Nice Z/28!

Got it - thanks again!

Thanks a lot Larry, for taking the time. I'm not one to "dramatize" single details for better realism but it's good to know about these things. And I guess this fault can be corrected quite easily. As Classicgas pointed out already, the '71 Hemi Cuda by Monogram/ Revell is affected by the same fault...

LOL, I considered the same thing at first, because to me this is the best way any '69 Charger could possibly look: However, you assumed right, leaving the front bumper ram will mean leaving two small holes in the chrome bumper visible. I believe however the holes could be closed using a small amount of CA and painting with a Molotov pen.

Nice, I like it too. The Porsche 918 wheels look great painted in gold.

That a great model, Larry, congrats on that! Would anyone explain what it is about with the valance seam and headlamp dots? I tried to find out by checking images on the internet, but seem to miss the point...

Great idea, thanks for sharing. Am I wrong is assuming that basically a nail in the right size would do aswell? Imho this tool is required only to do the initial scribing, after that the panels can be deepened using the usual tools such as scribers, exacto blade etc.?

I second this. Also the timeline on scalemates indicates that it's a rebox. ROG and Fujimi switched some kits back then, so... https://www.scalemates.com/products/product.php?id=321462&p=timeline

Thanks guys, much appreciated! After taking the photos I noticed some minor issues that needed to be adressed. Such as: Closing the gap at the lower front lip: Adding the mirror (this is an MPC kit, so no mirror included, I took one from the parts box): Replacing the somewhat thickish kit antenna with a finer, scratch-built one: And finally, adding the rollbar I forgot to put into the interior in the first place:

Let's not forget there already is a very affordable kit of the current Mustang car: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-85-1996-2018-mustang-gt--1086558 It does not have an engine and it lacks a lot more, but I've seen people build a nice model out of this. You'll have to figure out how to solve the "headlight problem" first, though...

Good question, I think I remember Tom Ruijter (the guy doing TheScaleModelingChannel on YouTube) say back then that the Diamond version is indeed an improved one with regards to a better sheen - which is pretty much what you noticed too. Storing the hardener in a fridge is an obligation IMHO. I would not want to apply the clear coat mix on a model and find out only then that something's off... Although one would normally notice that by the hardener partially being... hardened. As regards your 2k clear coat results especially without doing any polishing, very nice. I still have some way to go practicing before it will work out like that for me...

Why's that? General lack of detail or did they forget about the turbos on this twin-turbo engine like Revell did...? @JC: you COULD be right, in fact I hope you ARE! Do Tamiya have a valid Porsche license?