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Tommy124

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  1. Tommy124
    Thanks a lot, Dann. I'm glad you like the progress... That makes sense, JC. A competition racer will be stripped of carpets etc. as far as possible. For "my" car, this is more like a more powerful, lightweight and widebody - but still roadgoing - version of the Carrera. So there may be some carpet. Speaking of which... This is more or less what I am trying to archieve: In order to replicate the "RS 3.8" lettering, I made a small paper printout from an image I found on the internet. I glued it into place prior to the flocking. I added the "lightweight" door handles made out of styrene to the SB door panels. There will be additional red "hand loops" on each side which I will make out of red seat belt textile. I tried it out on one panel already. Test fit: To be continued...
  2. Tommy124
    This is looking like a top notch job, JC (and it sure IS one)! I love the idea of creating an exclusive or rare niche model based on a mass production model. I'd like to see how you do the 4 square air inlet holes on the front of the car. Have you worked that out yet?
  3. Tommy124
    Thanks JC. In fact I was contemplating to do the same "cutting job" but decided to work my way around it. Note that the shape of the "seat pans" is still visible in the car, so to me it's mainly about removing the leather upholstery structure on the seats and backrest and cutting/ sanding down the higher parts of the backrest. I guess this will look alright once the black flocking has been done...
  4. Tommy124
    First of all, this is coming along very nicely, Alex. Looking forward to the next steps... I'm not too big a fan of modern BMW design, but the Z4 sure is an exception, just as it is a very good race car (proved by numerous wins in several 24 hour races). A bit shocked about Dann not being stocked better in the bimmer department... I would definitely go for the Fujimi EM/ ROG BMW 6 series kit. Fujimi has just re-released the BMW M635 CSi kit (https://www.scalemates.com/kits/1107949-fujimi-126500-bmw-m635csi) so it should be easily available. Some guy built the Alpina version of that very nicely some time ago: http://italianhorses.net/Gallery/Fujimi/B7 Alpina/b7.htm As regards the 850i kit, this was released in late 1990 as part of the ROG "Premium" series. That was ROG's counterpart to Fujimi's EM series, although there was a co-operation between them including ROG releasing EM series kits (Porsche 911, Ferrari 246, BMW 6 series). I remember so well because I bought it for 50 German marks then (a lot of money back in the day) and built it right away. The kit basically was fine imho with it's main problem being the fixing of the rear and front bumpers without ruining the paint job. Last year I restored my old 850i - which had practically fallen apart during all those years - with a new paint job and using some new parts like Fujimi rims + brake disks and "M style" mirrors. If you don't mind me posting it here, Alex, I'd like to show one photo of that:
  5. Tommy124
    I guess I know what you mean. I don't think the Porsche has this, but regardless it won't have any effect on my build, as I will have the whole area painted in body color. Back to business... I took a shot at the body with good old grey Tamiya primer spray. Looks okay to me so far: Happy not to see any ghostlines from the sunroof that was filled and sanded earlier on. Let's hope it stays that way... Just like the rest of the kit, the interior is full of flaws. It's all just 911 Carrera/ turbo and as those cars are not lightweight, further modifications have to be made. This is what it looks like box-stock: On the ipad image you can see that there are not supposed to be any back seats. It's all basically stripped back there and covered with black carpet. I will cut, scrape and sand down the parts that formerly were the back seats, in order to have an even area that later will be covered using black flocking. Rear loudspeakers have to go too... The same goes for the door panels, they have that typical 911 leather look, whereas the RS has even, simple panels. So these pieces have to be cut out and will later be replaced by SB parts. As mentioned earlier on, I will use Scale Production race seats as a replacement for the kit's standard 911 seats. As the resin seats do not have the belt holes on their sides, these will have to be made using the hand drill. To be continued...
  6. Tommy124
    Looks good already and the clearcoat will surely eliminate the decals' roughness! Btw, I just noticed on the photo with the Tamiya can that there is a German newspaper beneath it... Any particular reason for that?
  7. Tommy124
    Saw this on the German forum already... Excellent result!
  8. Tommy124
    Guess you are one of the very first to have that kit completed? This looks very nice. Painting and decals are spot on!
  9. Tommy124
    My thoughts exactly!
  10. Tommy124
    Keeps looking great, Dann! But tell me, you're not done yet with masking, right? I mean, not all body parts will be totally covered with clear - and you'll have to cover the inside body parts too, if I'm not mistaken?
  11. Tommy124
    Looking good! More images of the car available here: http://www.racingsportscars.com/chassis/photo/ZAK G5C-001__78.html
  12. Tommy124
    Beautiful - love it! Extremely clean paint job and masking. And a very nice color scheme. Maybe some smaller stains from the black panel wash, which can be easily removed. Very well done!
  13. Tommy124
    Thanks again, Lloyd! Sounds good to me, will get me one of these cans...
  14. Tommy124
    Thanks, Lloyd. Interesting process. I checked on the 3M Super 77 Spray adhesive, however, did not find any notes saying that it can be easily removed, let's say with water. There must be a way to remove the templates after scribing, right? Thanks to you too, Matt. Although I'm done with scribing for now on the Porsche, I appreciate to learn about the "quick" solution, using Dymo tape. I'll order some of that and do some exercising on an old model. Good to know aswell about the "sophisticated way", this is very good. Indeed I think it's enough to have a rather light, but straight guide line to proceed with cautiously and free-handedly. Appreciated!
  15. Tommy124
    @Dann The Masker: looking great! A lot of work, yeah, but I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end. Looking forward to this being cleared!
  16. Tommy124
    Well to me, they are lines. See this image. That is a good tip for creases though, thanks for that.
  17. Tommy124
    I have seen this kit being built before, it's a nice one. And with regards to the small number of parts, this box stock build should be a piece of cake for you... As far as the decals are concerned, someone told me they always give the decals a mist of clear from the rattle can. That should make them less brittle and yet more flexible with regards to their application. I haven't tried that myself so far though. Will follow your build!
  18. Tommy124
    That's a lovely build! The color suits the car very nicely. I imagine the result with this color is not least depending on the primer. Did you use a white one?
  19. Tommy124
    Okay... today I will post some images of myself having a hard time. I noticed that on the bottom of the real car there are some additional horizontal panel lines: As these panel lines are not done on the kit's body, I had to find a way of doing them myself, properly. The task was to find some kind of material that I could (temporarily) fix to the body as a "guide" in order to follow along with the scriber. The problem is, it has to be flexible enough in order to adapt to the body's curves but yet be hard enough not to move while scribing (in order to avoid uneven lines). These are some things I tried. Let me tell you, they all basically failed... Thick "fix-o-moll" tape (originally used for sealing windows) - too rough and uneven... Double-sided adhesive tape - too soft: PE part fixed to the body using tape - too unsteady. I even found myself trying to fix PE scribing templates to the body using white glue but that failed aswell. If the body was even and not curved, it would not be any problem at all, but this way... Eventually I managed to complete the lines using several more or less unsatisfactory techniques. I have not made any photos of that so far but will show the lines once the body has been primered. However, I would really appreciate any tips and tricks on how this can be done better. Be that on materials themselves or alternative methods, your feedback will be much appreciated!
  20. Tommy124
    Not in my eyes. It's called gun metal and that's what it looks like to me.
  21. Tommy124
    Thanks for you kind words, guys! Thanks to you too, Brian! I use several photo box backgrounds as provided by Scale Production: https://www.scaleproduction.de/?cat=c119_Dioramen-1-24-Dioramen-1-24.html
  22. Tommy124
    That would have to be AK 483.
  23. Tommy124
    Great build in every department! I have that kit in stock and I might be tempted to go for a similar direction...
  24. Tommy124
    WOW! Quite a bit of paint dust there... At first I thought it was light and shadows on the floor but then I got it... May I ask how you handle the preparation of your rattle cans before shooting? Do you warm them up in water? I do so until I can barely handle the warm can and I do a lot of shaking before and after that. Yet I find myself having trouble here and there, especially if the can is not that full anymore. It's probably also the case that I don't take care enough of cleaning the nozzle...
  25. Tommy124
    Nothing short of L-O-V-E-L-Y!
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