NOBLNG

Good info, although the OP never specifically said he was using CA to install the glass….just that he got some on it somehow.🤷‍♂️

Sure thing Keith. I don’t know if I really screwed something up or what…but most folks don’t have many issues with this kit. I found that the interior tub (and therefore the trans tunnel) sits above the chassis floor pan. So there is a gap between them when viewed from the bottom. So I trimmed the rear locating pins to move the tub downwards until it sat down tight to the floorpan. Also, the only locating points for the firewall are those two posts that are supposed to be standoffs (with no positive location points) from the interior tub and no connection points at the bottom edge of the firewall. So I trimmed them a bit and added a .030” sheet that I glued to the posts and the lower edge…now I had a large flat plate to glue to the front of the interior tub. So yes, the white pieces in the first pic are to close up the gaps. Now to get everything to sit nicely into the body shell I had to trim the nubs on the front wheel wells so that the firewall would sit up tight to the cowl. There is a little gap required between the inner and outer fenders or the hood hits the shocks and won’t close….so I recessed the fender brace/shock mounts into the fender wells. I’ve seen more than a couple of builds under glass where the hood does not close flush.🧐 The inner fender wells are completely wrong for this car but I don’t want to get into correcting them. See my previous link to a great build that does address this issue if you are inclined. Any more questions, feel free to ask here or PM me. Edit: the hood not closing flush could be from shock interference if the nubs are trimmed, or more likely from air cleaner interference.

Scratched up some shocks from 1mm aluminum tubing and 3/32 styrene tubing. I don’t even think they need any paint….to be trimmed to length on final assembly.🙂 And I added a slightly better upper rad tank.

Flea market finds. The fellow threw in the Viper for free cause there isn’t much left in the box. I think the other two are mostly complete. Edit: I only got 4 wheels and tires with disc brakes from the Viper kit….and the bucket seats. The other two kits are complete.🙂

Since I glued the rear suspension in place I had to separate the tailpipes so that I can fish them into place after painting. I lengthened the driveshaft slightly also.

The body is looking nice David.👍 Will the starter fit where the bell housing lump is? If so it should be simple to lop off the engine mount and fill the hole in the oil pan. You gotta do that anyway or it’s gonna leak.😬

I’ve got the chassis pretty much finalized but still have to add the rear shocks. I got rid of the kit hood hinges and installed magnets instead. The front ones I mounted directly below the hood pins. I had to move the radiator support forward a bit for the magnets to line up. A good source for the steel shims that I inset into the hood is a jar lid that measures 0.01” thick. Once the perimeter is removed it is thin enough to be cut with scissors.🙂

Looking forward to seeing where you go with this.😎

Wow, some fabulous fab work going on here!👍😎

I’ve found that every modification requires a counter-modification.🤯

Increase your skill set every chance you get.

This is how I did it on a ‘64 GTO. Looks was all I was after…not 1:1 realism.

Day two model builds and rat rods are my favourite but I think I’ve said that recently.

Be careful…if you widen the frame inwards you may create problems for engine and exhaust clearances? If it was me, I would just build mounts inboard for the A-arms at the pivot locations. The motor mounts could double as the forward ones. Just food for thought…I have no clue how it should be done on a 1:1 vehicle and am only somewhat concerned with realism on my builds.

The clear colors are very transparent and whatever is underneath will show through, so you can use that to your advantage for creating different paint effects. For turn signals and tail lights I use it directly on the kit chrome or use a silver base coat. Nice work on the Tudor so far!😎

Excellent mods so far.👍 Love the tail lights and third brake light.😎

Interesting it would be, especially if you retained all previous memories, to be reincarnated.

A.I. will inevitably attempt a coup, because it won’t take long for it to realize that humans are stupid.

I thought he was referring to the blacked out recesses in the side trim?

Here is a fantastic current build of this model. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/169013-revell-porsche-914-6/#comments

Nicely done.👍

I agree, that looks like a larger scale. Random pics off the internet.

Very nice looking!👍

You will have to sand and polish it out. It may be easier and even better to make a new one from clear plastic sheet (or even some clear packaging). It can be done if there are no compound curves and fairly easy if it is not really curved.

I plugged and re-drilled the hubs on the big & little mag wheels from a Revell ‘66 El Camino today and yes…the new holes are pretty much on center unlike the originals.🧐 I also shaved the door handles, drilled and pinned some resin pieces that I cast, and drilled for some 1mm aluminum tube door locks.