NOBLNG

You may only need to tighten it slightly to solve the problem. The brass nut tightens against the ptfe seal and squashes it slightly to seal against the needle. Oops, I see Bill has stated the adjustment procedure….doesn’t hurt to have a spare anyway.

Beautiful pair!??

Absolutely outstanding work Jon! That is about the most accurate build I’ve ever seen.??

Downside to airbrushing is that you need a compressor.

You’re welcome Bart. All I did was type 1/24 scale Jeep Liberty into Google. I have no knowledge about the seller.

Without a doubt, for a smoker hardwoods will give a much better flavour than poplar.

https://www.nicecardiecast.com/en/products/coca-cola-2002-jeep-liberty-limited-echelle-scale-1-24

Make sure you have a flat screwdriver small enough to remove and install it.

Common mistakes can be avoided with a little bit of research.

Popular guys get all the hot chicks.

Other than a blockage in the nozzle, the packing nut (TAL-8) is possibly not tight enough. In my Iwata it has to be tight enough to squash the ptfe enough to seal against the needle. If it’s too loose it won’t seal. If it’s too tight the trigger may be stiff or not return. More Info:https://www.everythingairbrush.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Paasche-Talon-TG-Manual-English.pdf

I wasn’t aware that it was available other than aerosol. One thing I sure do like about it, is the ease of stripping a botched paint job…and I have more of those than I care to admit.? I actually use the Tamiya primer in the square bottles. Just thin it a bit with lacquer thinner….but it doesn’t strip easy and that is the only reason I am trying to switch to Dupli-Color.

Yes.? It’s just something I plunked in there for a mock up. That’s not even the kit frame, but the engine sits very nicely on the mounts and cross member so….?

I had that furry issue with two cans of white primer. I returned them for a refund.

Nothing added to it. But I think the decanting process may be the issue. I used a clean bottle and sprayed it through a clean plastic straw. This is what it looks like immediately. This time I stirred the contents before attaching the airbrush. The spoons seem dry already (10 minutes). I did not notice the separation the first time around and did not stir it to reconstitute the product.? No such issue with their filler primer.

Okaaay. The spoons seem to be dry.? So possibly the decanting may cause an issue? I will try decanting a fresh batch and do some more spoons. It was actually the filler primer (not sandable) that I used underneath it, but that was dry and shouldn’t be an issue I would think.

I hear ya! I was attempting to mount the doors when one of the hinges flew out of my tweezers and into a parallel dimension.? So I covered the entire inner sides with a layer of .015” styrene sheet, glued the doors in place and filled the seams. There…I fixed it!?

I just sprayed 4 spoons from the can after a good long shaking. We’ll see what happens.

I just bought the can this spring…maybe 6 months ago? It is kept in the garage where the temperature is currently 58.6F. I did spray it once before with the same results. I figured I’d try again after shaking it more and letting it dry longer, but…

Have you tried spraying decanted paint again after the problem manifested itself? If so and it works fine…maybe try contacting Paasche directly. They also have manuals you can download on their website. Sorry I don’t have any more specific advice.

This stuff just doesn’t seem to dry.? I shook the can well, decanted and sprayed it through the airbrush. Then put it in the dehydrator for over 12 hours. It is still tacky enough that it will stick to my hand. The first coat of filler primer dried nicely, but this stuff….?

Believe me, it is well deserved! I also thank you for posting the techniques you’ve used. Outstanding results!??

That is this one…slightly modified.? I thought it was fine, but 600 divided by 25 equals 24 grit in 1:1 scale.?

That is all around a great looking package!??

Looking good Alex!?