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Rich Chernosky

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Everything posted by Rich Chernosky

  1. Turned out sweet Dave, that was a lot of conversion work but it paid off with a decent model.
  2. A classic Gary...and thanks for all the background information.
  3. Very nice, this was originally issued by Modeler's.
  4. Very nice job on and the Ghia....is this the Gunze/Sangyo kit.
  5. Thank you for the compliment Lou....we would luv to see your gullwing.
  6. I know for a fact those decals were a real terror, and you did a great job on them. Looks great.
  7. Gary...that's actually the first time I have attempted that. So the compliment is most appreciated.
  8. Not a problem there...you know the door is always open for you.
  9. Dave...we model builders collect all sorts of stuff that we think will work. I was the manager of a paint and wallpaper store and one day this small sample book showed up. We were never going to sell any of that stuff but the minute I saw the book I knew "I" had a use for it. It went home with me that day and i still have it. Its not a matter of going out of my way to think about it. It was more like using some of the things we have on hand.
  10. Thank you Gary. The kit was not really all that difficult so I am sure somebody else must have built one. Maybe this post will bring them out of the closet.
  11. After years of sitting in its box I have finally finished my 1/16 Italeri Mercedes 300SL convertible (also known as a cabrioblet) Colour is a pearlized ink by Liqui Acrylic currently sold by Hobby Lobby. Colour is called Sun Up blue and i add a small amount of Tamiya clear blue to bring out the colour more. The trunk had some sand through during polishing and had to be resprayed recently. Matching the colour again after 12yrs proved a little problematic. Which is probably why is sat so long. Once past that problem the kit went together well and the chassis was surprisingly detailed. (se photos) I liked all the working features on this kit, opening hood, doors and trunk. Especially the steering wheels which operate through the steering wheel via a rack and pinion box (shown) See photo captions for more details.Thanks for looking. Almost forgot I had this background, rest of the photos are on my white background to show detail One of my favorite photos, all that chrome trim was seperate but fit very nice. The engine is the same 6 cyl as found in the Gullwing coupe. It is mounted at a 45 degree angle to reduce the hood line. This was quite an engineering feat in the 50's The doors open and close quite nicely, I really like this interior which was sprayed with Tamiya flats. Carpet is velour wallpaper I had from a sample book. The chassis ready to go under the body Don't usually take this photo but the underside was so detailed...why not show it. That steering box has a small rack and pinion that worked very smoothly. Took this picture to show the actual size of the car. 1/16 is a good size model. Italeri hit a home run with the kit inmy opine.
  12. Great looking model Gary, luv the photography, nice backgrounds.
  13. Its a winner Bruce, you did a great job.
  14. Rich Chernosky

    GT350

    Great job on this one. It was one of Mark Donohues first rides.
  15. I have this kit and have avoided it for quite some time due to the problems you have mentioned above. It is encouraging to know that it can be done and an acceptable model can be had. Thanks for posting and all the additional information provided. You did a great job.
  16. I was curious because I have struggled with flourescents for years. By their very nature they are porous and absorb the solvents of any clear coat. Which changes their color and dulls them down. My solution was to go to a water-base clear. Krylon makes one in a paint called Lo-Odor. It dries very clear and builds nicely. Doesn't change the color of metallics or flourescents. It dries very hard but can take as much as 2 months to cure depending on humidity. So I am always looking for quicker solutions. Thanks for telling me. The artistry of modeling is in the paint...in my opinion.
  17. Interesting choice of colour, can't miss that one on the track. Whose paint did you use and what clear coat. ??
  18. Thanks for the compliment. In retrospect, that scoop can be glued on with the body in place. Make sure the window fits first, then glue the scoop on. Adjust it while the glue sets then fit the window and it will sit perfectly around the scoop. I did it bassackwards.
  19. Kurt....this is definetly something different for you. But I think you are doing quite well. You will enjoy Splash paints as they perform quite admirably. I have this car in 1/20 from Revival but I have been avoiding it for lack of reference. So you are giving me a big boost here. Thanks for posting and taking the time to do a WIP. Good luck with the kit.
  20. Tony...I was intimidated by this kit also. It sat and sat . Then I wanted to use it as a paint excercise and it took some creative masking but it came out great. Once past that, this kit just flew together. Hope this helps you.
  21. This model was intended to be a paint experiment. I wanted to try Splash paints and 2K clear. Colors chosen were Deep Impact Blue and Rosso Scuderia for the red. White was Tamiya TS26. Masking proved to be difficult but do-able. the two piece body greatly aided in the separation of blue and red. Must say the Splash paints performed admirably and laid down very well. They are extremely flat but when the clear is applied they come to life. Once the body was done and cured the incentive was there to finish the kit off. I am very pleased with this kit as the fit (with exception of back window) was excellent. The body in particular snapped down over the chassis and stayed in place with no glue or pins required. Revell has stepped up to the plate on this one. See the captions under the pictures for more details. Thank for looking. The body all sprayed and clear coated, sitting in the sun to cure. The chassis was very detailed and required much detail painting. Too bad most of this is covered when the body goes on so I always take pictures first. Much wiring was added to the interior. Sorry about the bad photo but I hadn't planned on taking the body off to take another. I thought with the large windscreen it would be visible but, alas it was not. All finished and decalled. I paid special attention to the color of the wheels. It was Alclad burnt iron with a misting of copper. Interesting color. The kit wheels did not steer but it was a fairly ea sy conversion. I also added the carbon fibre to the sills and the front. The business end of the car. Some very interesting aerodynamics. Rear window has the engine scoop sticking straight up through it. The scoop had to be carefully glued in the exact position for it to clear and the only way to find out was to attach the body. Suffice to say it wasn't and some careful filing and grinding solved this problem. The only one with this kit. This particular car placed second in the GTE Pro class. Not a bad effort for a a long layoff at Lemans. There were four of these cars that were fielded by Ganassi racing.
  22. Thank you very much, I consider world class to be the ultimate compliment. At 17yrs old I never would have dreamed I would achieve such status.
  23. Gary...this is my original Cobra build from 1965. Model is kinda showing its age but for a 55yr old it held its own. This kit holds many memories for me and it includes several firsts in my modeling career. Open doors with hand made hinges, flocking for carpet interior, wired engine using carpet thread. I used the chassis and engine out of an IMC Cougar II kit. A big reason was the greater detail but steering wheels were my main objective. This car was also used as a prop for a childrens film that was made by a friend of mine. Paint was Pactra white. Thanks for starting this post an allowing me to share.
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