Plowboy

And it very well still could be. Round2 has been surprising us lately with kits that some said were gone forever. So, you never know.

Could be. But, I would think it would've been called that instead of a customizing kit. I just hope it isn't some George Barris abomination. I'm hoping you're right!

That's odd. Tamiya white is quite thin for putty. I used Squadron white which is a lot thicker and had no problems.

Exactly. But, people are making assumptions about what he has or hasn't done and no one truly knows.

How do we know this guy didn't do all of the work? Has he entered it in model car contests? If he hasn't, what does it matter? Even if he did enter it into a contest, it's certainly no worse than the dad that brings his kid along so that he can place his model in the youth class.

What's the difference in building a kit where all of the parts are created? What about buying aftermarket parts, photo etch, resin etc.? The person building the model didn't create those parts. They bought them. Another person or machine did the work for them.

Find a kit of the same make and similar model year to use for the donor parts.

Star Models actually makes the panel van conversion.

As Bill stated, they're still pretty common on ebay. And still at a decent price. If Revell did reissue it, retail price would probably be more than they are currently. I didn't realize it had been eleven years since it had been reissued! Time flies when you're getting old! One added thought; if anything, I would like to see Revell do a panel van based on this kit like they did with the '37.

Very true. Besides, pimps don't have much time for building modelcars.

The first issue of this kit had the Halibrand wheels. I'm sure it'll get reissued with them later on. I'll just have to wait.

It's looking good! One suggestion; if you're taking it to a show, I would fill in the sink marks on the inside of the frame rails.

I would reconsider lengthening the frame. That's what I did to mine at first and it made the front end waaaay too long and out of proportion. Or it did to me. Also, you'll want to keep the rear of your engine as close to the firewall as possible. I would suggest to temporarily glue the cab to the frame and work from there. If the transmission is a fit problem, maybe switch over to a manual.

Future WILL yellow over time. But, it's not a big deal unless you put it over white or a similar light color. I use Tamiya TS -13 clear straight out of the can. It's sprays really nice and lays down super thin. I'm sure they make a similar product for an airbrush. I've used it over a couple of white paint jobs. Fifteen to sixteen years later, no yellowing!

They kinda look like a custom tail light for a '69 Camaro.

Very nice Bob! I decided that I didn't need this kit since it didn't come with the Halibrand wheels. Your model has made me question that decision. Nice work!

I had a resin body that seemed like it had a thousand pinholes in it. At the time, I shot a coat of primer over it and used the white Squadron putty. Today, I would use Tamiya. It's held up well over the years. But, it did take a lot of prep work to get it smooth. You'll definitely want to use a guide coat (different color) on your primer and be prepared to do a lot of sanding.

An EV doesn't have to "start". It's more like turning on a light switch. The base Lightning starts at $40,000 and goes up to "90,000. With every new vehicle, there's going to growing pains. Just like the ICE vehicles had in the beginning and continue to have. There's going to be a learning curve. I've been doing some figures using the Lightning as my reference. With my current F-150 and current gas prices, it costs me a little over $88 to go 320 miles. I seriously doubt that it would cost $88 to charge the batteries in the Lightning. It costs me on average $300 a month for the electric to run my home which is a little over 2500 sq. ft. That's $10 a day to run an entire house. I doubt that a charger would use more electric in a day to charge a battery than an entire house would use. I'm not saying it would only cost $10 to charge the battery. But, it couldn't be much more. Even if it was quadrupled, I'd still be saving money.

You did well with what you had to work with John! I bought the '65 and it has a lot worse proportion issues. Is there a substantial gap between the hood trim and grille or is the hood not all the way down?

My guess would be the Dodge Fever Bee.

Not that I build factory stock. But, if it's a kit that can only be built one way, my interest is already almost gone. Hopefully, I'll be proven wrong. Fingers crossed.

You're welcome Garry! I did have a photo of the chassis! Now that I look at it, I think the cross member is a piece of channel instead of the kit piece.

To post in the WIP section, just do the same thing you did here. Just press the start topic button and go. To lengthen and drop the front, I scratch built new frame horns and glued the cross member to them. I had a photo that showed them well. But, I deleted it a couple of weeks ago. I'll check my Flickr account and see if I have one there.

That's the best looking "junk" Corvette I've seen! This model proves what a pair of capable hands can do with even the most simplistic kit. Well done Tommy and keep posting!

Many years ago, I stretched a set of hollow tires over this kit's wheels. The fronts were the hollow Firestones from AMT and the rears were the MPC slicks. I'm sure there are other tires that will fit these wheels with a little work. I heat and stretch the Revell SCS'S over the Pegasus wheels all the time. Personally, I'm going to build mine just like the old boxart. Black with the old flames and a red interior. This time, I won't have the problem of trying to cover the black styrene with the old nasty Testors gloss red paint!